so here is the situation. water pump statrted to make some noise, so i just went and replaced it. then i changed the t-stat and the temp sender. still runs hot, most days it will stay at about the m on temp but if i sit for a bit it will climp to the p. but it will never go over that, i am thinking that it could be the gauge going south? does this happen often. just a month ago everything was working fine. egr isnt working right cause the vacuum amplifier is bad, anyone know where to get one??? but could this cause a problem, dont think the egr valve opens at all, at least it doesnt if i push the throttle and watch the valve. i put ported vaccum on it and it doesnt work, dont know what to do... any ideas???

by the way i live in tempe just outside of phoenix and its a little warm here right now

1977 F250 460
C6 Hedman Headers
Dual 40 series
edelbrock performer
holley 4160
msd 6a and blaster coil

 

well as far as the temp situation goes, i would look to the fan clutch also. if it doesnt work properly, the fan may not draw the amount of air it should, causing a overheating situation. i replaced my water pump and thermostat and fan clutch all at the same time and saw near a 35 degree drop in operating temp(went from 220 down to about 185 or so). dont really know bout your egr situation though. sorry

mike

 

how much for the fan clutch? can i just get it at a local auto parts store?? i will try that this weekend and see if it works. dont know what else to check..

1977 F250 460
C6 Hedman Headers
Dual 40 series
edelbrock performer
holley 4160
msd 6a and blaster coil

 

I'm having the same problem with the 460 in my '77 Linc. So far I've changed the thermostat, flushed the rad. and put a fan clutch on($30 at Autozone), still it gets really hot. The gauge will go up to "A" but never gets over that. I noticed my EGR's bad, so I bought a new one for $50 at Autozone yesterday. I'm going to put it on next and see what it does. If my friend is right the EGR blows exhaust gas into your manifold in cold engine / weather situations. If this is true 1000 degree exhaust would cause a little extra heat in the engine! I also saw the timing is at 6 degrees and the eng. the sticker says 16 deg., but when I put it up that high it would barely crank when hot. I'm hoping they tuned the car around the bad EGR and replacing that and the timing will fix everything. Nobody really responded to my post about the EGR so I'll just check and see. Good Luck Here is my post:

[https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID11/1341.html]

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 28-Aug-02 AT 01:09 AM (EST)]The EGR valve is an emissions piece. It only operates at normal operating temp. It opens during part throttle to add exhaust back into the cylinders to reburn it to make the exhaust cleaner.
The only time that this will effect the idle is if it is stuck open. It will run rough and may not idle at all.
If it is a fuel injected truck, alot of times, the EGR actuator will not open the valve if the truck is in parked and free revved. The computer also uses vehicle speed, load(MAP or Mass Air Flow sensors) throttle position, ect. to determine whether the valve gets opened or not.
The EGR valve is not a necessity, I don't have one on my 77, you can remove the valve, cut out some sheet metal to fit, install a new gasket and the formed sheetmetal. Use some red high temp gasket sealer and bolt down your home made block-off plate.
I used and early model stock intake without it until I got my Edelbrock performer intake.

If it isn't moving, it's either stuck, or the diaphram is bad.
Have you tried a mechanical gauge to see what the actual temp is?

 

Thanks for the layman's EGR explanation, that helps a lot. My next step is to use a probe and check the actual water temperature. What should it be with a 460?

 

In a perfect world, it should be at whatever your themostat is. 180 or 195. Idling around it can run up to 205 and be fine. Mine stays about 180-185 unless it is in the mid 90's then it may run about 195-200.