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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:25 PM
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'79 wont start

My 79 bronco wont start now. The book i have said to check the coil first. with the ignition on, it gets voltage to both sides of the coil. but when i try to start it, there is no voltage coming out of the top of the coil. The wires cap and rotor are all fine. of course that would have nothing to do with the coil anyway, but at least it limits the problem to only the coil. Anybody know what to check next?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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I'd just replace the coil. Was just in Autozone the other day and an ignition coil for my '80 was $17-$20.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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Sounds to me like you've found your problem. I'd replace the coil.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 12:47 AM
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But the book says that you're suppose to get voltage on both sides of the coil. I am getting voltage on both sides, so i assume that the coil is good. Would the neutral safety switch might cause no spark if it were not hooked up or if it were bad?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 07:49 AM
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Neutral switch should just be hooked to the starter cranking circut.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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Okay, so the nss would not be the problem then. Could the coil still be bad even if it shows voltage on both sides while the ignition is on?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 05:41 PM
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Talking If you are not getting a spark from the coil wire to the cap.....

And you have power at the coil then the coil is the problem, cheap fix for sure.

Rick.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 10:14 PM
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I also have a 79 Bronco and the first place to look is the control module located by the driver side hood hinge . A lot of parts stores can test these for you. They are not to expensive, maybe around $30.00.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:28 PM
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Unhappy 79 wont start

Okay so I have a 79 Bronco as well and I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I smell fuel in the carb. What else could be the problem and what would my next step be? I am not real machanical here so please help.. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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I replaced the module today. Didn't help a thing. I did notice though, that I get power to both sides of the coil only when the condenser is NOT plugged in. If the condenser is plugged in, voltage will not read at the coil. I guess i'll replace the coil tomorrow and see what happens. As for you, Kraker, i would start where i did and take the coil wire (center one) off of the distributor and if you have a test light, ground the clip end on the battery negative terminal and put the probe in the plug and get someone to crank the engine. if the light lights up, then your problem is after the coil unless it is badly out of time. If you dont see it light up, then test to see if you get voltage at the coil. With the ignition ON, see if the test light lights up when you touch either of the two contacts on the top of the coil. They look like raised buttons.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by reecem13
....I replaced the module today. Didn't help a thing. I did notice though, that I get power to both sides of the coil only when the condenser is NOT plugged in. If the condenser is plugged in, voltage will not read at the coil. ....
Reecem, did you try to start it with the condenser unplugged? That condenser is only for radio static suppression, and isn't needed for the engine to run. I've had them short to the coil mount and kill the ignition.....

Your trouble might also be a broken wire going to the pick-up coil (not to be confused with the ignition coil), located inside the distributor. You can trace the wires going into the distributor and see if one is frayed or broken.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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okay. replaced the coil and condenser and it fired rite up. dont which one it was but it was one of them. I dont really care though. it runs.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 07:35 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by reecem13
okay. replaced the coil and condenser and it fired rite up. dont which one it was but it was one of them. I dont really care though. it runs.
Nice going, Reecem.
 
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