Hello everyone!

I made a post in the 61-66 pickup forum and now I will make one here. I found a 1994 4.6L out of a Crown Vic complete with the transmission, wiring harness and engine ECM for only $150.00 dollars. I am going to purchase the engine tonight once the guy gets off of work. My plan is to install the engine into a 1965 F-100 two-wheel drive pickup. I have a 73 F-100 parts truck that I am going to use as a mock up since the engine and transmission has already been removed. This way I can get everything made and ready to go while still being able to run my 65 pickup. If for some reason the project does not look like it will work, I can cut my loss and sell the parts off and all the time have not affected the operation of my pickup.

1.My questions is what is the good and the bad with the modular engines?
I am not after a race engine or stump puller just a good over all engine that still has plenty of power to spin the tires every now and then. I want to go with a newer modern engine for the drivability. I have a brand new Mustang and I like the fact I can turn the key and go. My old 360 is very fussy until warm.
2. What can I do to get a few more horsepower and torque out of this engine? I realize it will not be as good as a 5.4L or a 390 that I was thinking of installing, I just want to get some more out of this engine.
3. What should I look at on this engine before installing it in my pickup?

Thanks for all the info.

Jeff

 

! thing I have found to be there weak spot is the "lifters".They are not called lifters any longer though.And I cant remeber the name.If you overheat it and do not keep the proper oil,and oil changed when it is supposed to be.The lifters can fail due to a weak spring inside of it.And that intake snorkel breaks at the throttle body allowing dirt into the motor.This is what I have seen so far.

And there are piles of them in the J/Y if you need parts

 

http://www.modulardepot.com/index.php

 

Those are called lash adjusters.

Valve guide seals on the earlier ones usually fail and will cause the engine to smoke. I would replace them while the engine is out. Switching to 99-up PI heads and intake will up the power, but will put the compression up close to 10:1 so you may need to run 92 octane.

 

Right now my engine has the aluminum intake manifold with the throttle body at the back of the intake. I was looking through the Ford SVO catalog at the PI or SVO heads and both require a manifold change and it appears that the throttle body was moved to the center of the intake much like a carburetor manifold. What else is required to move those items with the new manifold?<O</O
I know special tools make the job a lot easier, but can the engine be tore apart and put back together with out the use of the cam and crank alignment tool? If I have to buy them I guess I will, but I would rather spend the $300.00 plus dollars on engine parts and not tools that I will use a hand full of times.<O</O

Jeff

 

Remember that stock engine is only running around 200hp, put dual exhaust, run Efans and stick a PI intake and Heads on it and you should be in the mid 200's. Also IIRc the Mustang TB's/intakes exit to the P. side as the CV TB/intakes exit to the D. side. I second replacing the valve guide seals they leak something awful after 100K miles or so. Also if you are looking for used heads and intakes Stangs got the PI setup in '99 CV's didn't get them until '01 so depending on which side you want the intake to run might depend on which one you want. The coolant crossover in the stock intakes also likes to spring a leak most of the newer ones have AL crossovers that fix the problem.

 

Since you are installing in it a custom application, You can put the TB anywhere that you want. The T/C, T-Bireds and Cougars all have the TB facing forward in the rear like yours is. The Mustang intake has the TB in the middle and facing the passenger side. Like said above, I would get some late model PI heads and a Bullitt intake if you can find one. Profesional Products has a nice aftermarket intake as does TrickFlow. The TrickFlow intake is real close to the Bullitt intake except it is all aluminum.

 

Thanks for all the information! I am going to look into getting PI heads and manifold at a later time and date. At this point I am going to focus on getting this swap complete and once it is running good then I can focus on goodies.

Does anyone know for sure weather or not the cam alignment tool is needed when putting the engine back together?

Jeff

 

Go top that link I sent you.It will tell you how to set your cams.Otherwise you can go to napa to get the cam locks.There is 2 sets. 1 for sohc 1 for dohc.$170 +/- per kit