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I'm new to this site and am very impressed. I'm working on a project truck that started out as a simple clutch job, and now looks like a complete re build. I'm a diesel mech and do alot of in frame rebuilds on wet sleeve engines. So excuse me if some ? sound like I'm stupid. Some of you like George and cobra jet I'm sure I could listen to you guys all day. My Truck is a 1987 f 250 8800 gvw extend cab 4x4 460 4 sp. 130,000 miles. The plan for now is to go .030 over on bore and new cam. The truck is to be used as a snow plow and tow rig. I'm on a low budget but plan on doing this right.This is where I have Questions.
1. How much cam? I would like to run stock valve train.
2. I know of a few other 460's around, Is it worth it to find a
non egr set of heads and intake. I don't know the casting #
but I know they are not old enought to have D0V's.
3. Stock commpress or are raised pistons available
I have alot more to ask but hope to here back.
That's a great question. I looked at piston kits from PAW for 5-600 for parts. I'll do the smog bumps myself and the crank mics out great so I hope not to much. I just wish I would stop and leave good enough alone but as you know thats tough.
I would recommend the CompCams 268h. The only modification required is matching valve springs and a good timing chain that doesn't have the 4 degree retard built in.Those should go in during a rebuild anyway.
Jimmy
Get a pre 71 timing chain set. After that they have the allignment mark offset from the tooth. That is how you can tell if you have the 4 degree retard crank sprocket.
Block
Use pistons (cast are fine) to get the c/r up to 9.0:1
Deck the block for no more than .035 clearance to enhance quench
Spend the money to have the entire rotating assembly balanced
Cam
Stay below .500 lift
Duration low 200@.050 with 8-10 degrees more on the exhaust
110 lobe center
'68-71 timing set
lxman1 recommended the Comp 268H, but, with all due respect, I think that's a square duration cam and the restricted 385 exhaust benefits from a longer duration on the exhaust side.
Heads
Exactly what you said, get rid of the T-bumps and casting mis-match lines inside the ports. If you don't mind the extra work, gasket matching the intake mainfold to the head intake ports is a worthy project.
Intake manifold
Up to 3500rpm, and for your application that's plenty, the stock manifold will outflow all the aftermarket stuff. Spend the money on balancing.
Rebuild kits
Everybody seems to have one. The big question is always what do you actually need and component quality. If you're a diesel mechanic, nobody needs to tell you the importance of quality parts, especially oil pumps, rings and gasket sets.
I used a PAW piston kit in the past and was very satisfied with the quality. You don't need forged pistons, so that'll lower your costs. Their catalog is well worth the price just as a reference.
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