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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 04:56 PM
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fyrflyr
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First Time C6 Rebuild

Hi guys. This is my first time at a c6 rebuild, or any other automatic for that matter. It is in a 71 2wd shortbed. Got the video from Badshoe (thanks Ken). Also have a full set of shop manuals on DVD coming. Disconnected everything from the transmission, and drained and dropped the pan today.

Question 1. I have read and searched and found that there may or may not be a plastic "plug" in the pan. There was not. What I did find was a magnet in the pan. It's approx 1.25" across, and .5" thick and shaped like a donut, or washer. Is this normal? It did have a small amount of ferrous metal slivers sticking to it.

Many radial engines from older aircraft have magnetic drain plugs in the sumps, so I assume this is performing the same function, I just haven't heard any of you guys mention them during your builds, or in giving advice.

Question 2. I've read here that guys are using brake cleaner to clean parts. What do you guys recommend for a solvent to soak parts in to clean them?

I'll have a bunch of questions as I go, so thanks in advance for all the great info, and help. I wouldn't even consider this on my own without your help.

Jim
 
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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Clubwagon
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
All automatics should have a magnet in the pan. As you noted, to collect the metal debris You described the OE ford magnet. Brake Clean works fine but its expensive. Mineral Spirits is the best parts cleaner.

The plastic plug in the pan is the dipstick plug. Its installed at the Transmission manufacturing plant to keep the trans sealed during shipment to the truck assembly plant. It gets knocked into the pan when the dipstick is installed. It typically gets thrown away the first time the fluid is changed.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
 
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 08:44 PM
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Thanks Steve. I appreciate the knowledge. I hit a minor speed bump tonight while removing the aft crossmember that the trans it self mounts to. At sometime in the past, it has been welded to the frame rails...bummer. Grinding the welds now and hopefully will drop trans tonight. Again, thanks to all on this forum who freely share their knowledge!!!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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Remove the front cross member as well.

That makes life so much easier.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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Next Questions

Any sugestions regarding an effective method of flushing trans. cooler and lines? Compressed air, pump? Fliud looked OK I think. SLIGHTLY dark, no metal to speak of, just what small slivers were on magnet.

Does anyone know where the approximate "balance point" of a c6 with an FE bell/bolt pattern, short tailshaft housing, and completely drained fo fluid including torque converter? In other words, where is the best place to put the jack? Eyeballing it looks like the forward portion of the pan.

Stuart, front cross member (the one between radius arm mounts) was tough do figure out how to remove once loose, but all in all, I think worth removing...thanks.

Jim
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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Clubwagon
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
Flush the cooler with mineral spirits. Fill a gear oil bottle with mineral spirits and insert the nozzel into the cooler line and squeeze! Then blow it out with compressed air. Repeat until the returned fluid is clear/clean.

Can't say about the balance point. We used pedastal type transmission jacks in my shop. They have a flat bottom with adjustable retainers at each side to grab the sides of the pan.
 
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