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You have to use a test light, the fluke wont read the load that is being used.
I beg to differ with you on that one. If the Fluke is used correctly it will very clearly tell you exactly how much current the system is drawing.
SAFTY NOTE::
Always use a current meeter in searies (like a test light) you must complete the circuit with the meeter...
Fluke meeters usually have a second set of red connectors for the test leads. For inital test use the 10A connection and select the current section on the meeter dial. Using a Fluke meeter will tell you lots more than a test light.
FWIW,
You might consider that the plug INTO the alternator is known to melt and cause a drain even Key Out and nothing hooked up (other than the battery)
This is pretty common and when you get a new alternator they usually give you a new pigtail plug in the box w/ it.
Well, the only thing I can think of is the connection to the starter?, I always thought it strange the pos. batter cable connected from the solinoid to the battery and then onto the starter?. that's the way mine is connected?.
.001 what, where? Ohms..... from the windings to ground?
Try pulling the plug from the Alt. and seeing if there's still draw @ the battery.
/Hack/
Just checked your profile.
This is a Brand New 2008 F150? Or???
If it is, why is the Q on this board?
I'm sorry if I'm adding to the confusion but I missed the vehicle in question.
Last edited by ArdWrknTrk; Jan 23, 2008 at 02:47 PM.
Reason: ???
Thats a good point also about the alt pigtail I just did mine after I got the third alt I had them test it, and it worked so I put it in and it didnt work, I got the new pigtail and it went right up, im guessing it went bad from me yanking on it with the other 2 alternators, you can get them at advanced auto for 7 bucks. Also what kind of stereo equipoment do you have, I actually had a remote gate on my head unit stay open a few years ago and would slowly drain my battery, I put a toggle on it till I could afford a new deck and that corrected it.