first off i would like to drain and flush my radiator on my 94 IDI turbo, what is the proper way to flush out the cooling system?
what kind of coolant and additives should i refill the system with?
where can i find these at? (napa?, walmart?)

Im getting a really low reading on my factor temp gauge, barely makes it to the first line for normal. Could the gauge be bad or is that a good thing?
Im going to replace the thermostat so i figured id do this while i was at it.

 

It won't warm up unless you put a load on the engine. If you let it sit in the driveway, it will never seem to warm up.

I was just reading one of the other posts, and you need this antifreeze called fleetguard. They said tractor supply sells it, and possibly Napa. It's got the goodies in it for diesel engines.

As far as flushing, all I do is drain the coolant, take the lower radiator hose off, and the front heater hose off the engine. I then stick a garden hose up into the heater hose, and let water run through till it's clear coming out of the engine. Then I run water through the top of the radiator till it's clear coming out of the bottom of the radiator.

 

Mine never gets up to the N in normal, unless it is reall hot when towing. That was even after I put in a new OEM t-stat. That being said, I am going to pull the snorkel of one day soon an make sure the check ball in the bypass is in place, I wasn't aware of its existance when I originally change the t-stat. Even with a 7000 lb load mine doesn't get that warm, In fact when running down hills it gets downright cold in freezing weather.

 

The factory dash guage is worthless, the only thing it really tells you is it is warmer or cooler that the normal reading.

As far as an idea as to the actual engine temp, it means nothing.

 

Only sure way to know is to get a mechanical gauge and replace the POS factory ones. I've seen 2 brand new trucks read totally differnt under the same conditions. This is a problem for all the gauges. They'll just give you an indication of a major change. Example; my 87 shows 16 volts when running, check with DVM shows 14.2 volts. Figure out where yours normally runs and watch for change.

 

Diesel engine coolant temperature at the top of the radiator where hose attaches after high rpm or under load condition for 20 minutes should be (195-237*F) 91-114*C nice time to have a temperature reading point and shoot tool.
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http://www.fleetguard.com/en/product...cleaners.shtml
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CAUTION:
The specified/required thermostat does not contain an internal bypass, since the bypass is located in the cylinder block. Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 thermostat be installed.
CAUTION:
Do not attempt to repair any thermostat. It should be replaced if it is not operating properly.
Check the new thermostat before installing it for correct opening temperature. Before suspending in boiling water, with a flashlight check where the rubber and the flat metal flange meet for bad seal. Tstat should start to opening barely at 180-192f, fully open 200-212f, allow to cool and check for rubber seal again.
Removal: Disconnect batteries, drain 4+ gals A/F, remove: as required, fan belt, alternator set aside, alt bracket, remove filter support from fuel filter then e/block. Disconnect upper rad hose at rad, remove tstat bolts and gooseneck housing. Clean both faces, depression and holes in block, ensure check ball in gooseneck is clean, free and rattles "do not remove".
Installation is reverse proceedure, I do not use sealant on gaskets and faces. REMEMBER the tstat pellet(copper end) goes into the block. I do use a "very small amount" of sealant on the edge of the tstat face when installing into the recess, now go for coffee, allow sealant to setup, this has saved me from tstat slippage when the gasket and goosekneck are installed. Replace all items in reverse order......
Manifold bolt torque......... 20ftlbs

 

yeah im saying it never even warms up when im driving it either, i could be drivin it hard on the highway for an hour and it still will barely make it into normal range

 

What is the temp of the air coming out of the heater?

 

after about 10 minutes or so i can get extremely hot air

 

Looks like your temp gauge is bogus.

 

think i should replace my thermostat still?
dosent sound like too hard of a job, done it in gassers before with no problem

 

Just make sure you get the right one. I heard them talking about it on here before, and I looked them up at autozone's website. Sure enough, they list a few that look like a regular thermostat I would put in a small block chevy, but from what I am reading, this is not the correct part. The one you need is tall looking, almost looks like a metal cup. I looked at advance auto and it looks like they sell the right one, but I think the guys on here are going to tell you to buy one from a international truck dealer or Ford.

 

yeah i live about 15 minutes away from an international dealer so ill just go there and get one

 

If you are getting nice hot air out of the heater, I think I would get a mechanical temp guage before I replaced the thermostat.

Temp guage is easier to install, and you never have to wonder again.
You will have real numbers to work with as far as temp goes.

The dash guages Ford used for amps, oil pressure and temp are useless.
My ammeter has never moved since 1986.
20 PSI oil pressure on my mechanical guage, reads A in normal on the stock guage. (So does 45 PSI)
195 degrees on my mechanical temp guage read O on the dash guage. (So does 220 degrees)

I added a volt meter, mechanical oil pressure guage and mechanical coolant temp guage to my truck.

Now I can tell when I have a charging problem before I am stranded.
I know exactly how much oil pressure I have.
I also know exactly what the coolant temp in the head is.

 

if i install a mechanical temp gauge, what numbers should i be looking at for normal range, and any advice/instructions on installing one?