Cool, thanks.
What stall speed should i be looking for in a torque converter? 2000, 2400? Also i cannot seem to find an adjustable valve train on summit or jegs, what category should they be under?

 

Your convertor stall speed will depend on your cam selection but 2000/2400 is a good safe range, other factors are rear end ratio and vehicle weight, stay closer to 2000 a little under stall is beter than to much stall. Eric

 

Great! OK, does anyone know how much these things weigh? I cannot seem to find it anywhere. Oh and skipper, how is that cam off the line?

 

The cam in a Performer RPM package is way too much for stock heads, even heads with the smog bumps removed and some mild porting. It's meant to be used with the Edelbrock heads or production heads that have been ported to where they'll flow at least 175cfm on the exhaust side. And the Edelbrock isn't the most economical package around.

If you're going to use an aftermarket torque converter, take merc460's advice and stay around 2000rpm stall. Any more than that without a gear change and you'll have slippage (heat) at lower rpms in third gear. You should be able to get a 2000rpm torque for about $100 from any transmission rebuilder using your core.

If you have $700 left in your budget, figure $150 for a cam/lifters that will work with your heads, $50 for your friend to clean-up the heads (plus whatever materials he requires), $250 for a basic valve job (that'll be a requirement if you disassemble the heads to grind off the smog bumps and get lucky where no valves or valve guides have to be replaced or knurled), $100 for new valve springs to match your cam and $80 for a timing chain assembly. At $680, you still need to buy head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, timing chain cover/water pump gaskets, spark plugs, two types of RTV and gasket treatment for the install.

I'd suggest you forget the stall converter and adjustable valve train. They can always be added after you get the current changes completed and more money becomes available.

 

I would say that off the line acceleration is good. It definately puts you back in your seat and the front of the truck pulls up a few inches. I have traction bars and they keep the back tires planted well. I should also add that my engine isn't finished yet. Right now I am still running stock heads which I plan to get ported and polished as soon as I have the money. I am still running the stock valvetrain, which is not recommended by Edelbrock, and does add some noise to the valvetrain. I also still have the stock intake. I bought the truck the way it is and haven't had the money to finish it yet. Even with all that stuff to inhibit the performance the truck still flies. To be honest I am not sure about the adjustable valvetrain, but I just figured I would ask Edelbrock what they recommended when the time came for me to buy it.

 

Thanks George and Skipper. I do not completely understand why i would need the valve job. Sorry but i am a newb, i am learning fast though. Would pulling the heads damage the valves? Oh and I already have a gasket kit with all gaskets in it. Oh and how can i get the heads flow tested?How do i know what size valve springs to get for the cam i choose when i, in fact choose a cam?Thanks for the info.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Nov-02 AT 06:10 PM (EST)]I don't know that you would actually need a valve job, but if your engine has a lot of miles and the heads are coming off anyway then you might as well redo the valves. When you do decide on a cam the manufacturer should tell you which springs to use. The paperwork that came with my Edelbrock cam said to only use Edelbrock RPM sure seat valves, which are about $90.

The way I'm figuring this, and I may be wrong, you should be able to get valve springs, a timing chain, intake, cam/lifters, carburator, L and L headers, and two flowmaster mufflers for a little under $1400. This leaves you about $600 to play around with on the heads/valves alone. Is there anything I am missing?

 

Grinding off the smog bumps and smoothing the ports will cover and fill everything on the heads with fine bits of metal, grinding stone and sandpaper debris. To get rid of that, so it doesn't get into your oil pump, rings and bearings, will require hot tanking of some sort. You're going to have the heads disassembled to replace the springs, so why not do the valves?

Sprngs are sold by open/closed seat pressure to match the lift on your cam. Buy them from whomever has the best price.

 

Ok, i got the valve job covered, i will do it at school. Hot tanking? I am assuming this is dipping it in some kind of hot liquid. I am going to have to disassemble the heads to remove the springs?! Damn, that is some funky engineering. Anyway the heads will be decently ported i just need to find a place that can flow test them. Any suggestions?

 

Anyplace that has a flow tester. Call around to the machine shops and someone will know who does it. They'll usually test one cylinder (intake/exhausr) for under $50.

 

Do i only need to bring the heads? What are the stock flow numbers?

 

When the heads are ported (which my auto shop teacher along with me are going to do) how do I know how much to take off? I know that he'll know because he has ported hundreds off heads. Do i do that match porting thingamabobber with the gaskets? I am assuming that i want all the ports to be equal, within each port category of course.

 

Go to:

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/D3-specific-porting-guide-index.html

Matching the intake ports to the intake manifold is not all that productive for street engines.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Nov-02 AT 10:49 PM (EST)]Woooo... That is ahrd for me to understand. Crap, how easy is this?
EDIT: Is this just for the intake port? How straightforward is exhaust porting?

 

If your teacher has ported a bunch of heads, he'll know short-side radiuus, bowl mix and all the other terms common to porting.