The C8ZE-9425-A should be a small block 1968 302 4V intake manifold.

The E7TE would be for a 1987 block.

 

Congratulations, you definiately have an 87 truck block and you are correct in that the other casting is Mustang, specifically, 68 mustang, and the 9425 refers to part # which in this case is intake. So, you have an 87 truck block with a 68 Mustang intake, (maybe someone up-graded to a 4 barrel carb?), and I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't have some older (higher compression) heads (maybe even 351w) on there as well. Bet you a nickle the new starter solves your problem.

 

ok thanks. so would there be a lot of difference between a starter for an 83 or 87?

 

that makes sense now. because someone told me a four bbl carb would work better on my truck cause my gas pedals stiff but i could never find a 4bbl for an 83 302. and it also has a 4 bbl adapter plate on it. ok thanks. final question is if im gonna get a new carb i get it for a 68 mustang righT?

and what do you think would cause a 3 month old starter to go that quickly?
i just had to replace the battery and ive had some problmes with wiring. could thast bwe related?

 

Would be the same for an 83 or 87 truck with an automatic transmission. The standard transmission takes a different starter.

 

The later model carb would probably match better to any wiring or linkage issues. Hard to say which one would be calibrated better to the engine though. If I understand you correctly, you have a 2 barrel carb on a 4 barrel manifold? Or is it an adapter to make a Quadrajet-type (spreadbore) fit a Ford intake. That would explain the linkage problems. The problems with your starter are nothing compared to what you will have buying a budget carbureator. The main problem is that the throttle shafts wear out the holes in the carb base and they leak air and wont idle. A new carb is gonna cost you some bucks but is probably worth it. I'd get an Edelbrock Truck Avenger or Holley (600 CFM) before I spent the money a new replacement costs, though. You could probably save some money and get a really well rebuilt carb fron carbdoc on E-Bay Motors.

 

I'm familiar with the Holley Truck Avenger, they come in 3 sizes - 470, 670, 770 cfm. I don't think any Edelbrock carbs share the same brand name, I'd expect lawsuits would emerge.

I recently bought a factory-rebuilt 670 CFM variant from Holley's storefront on eBay based on the advice of a retired Ford mechanic who says they work really well on M block motors (which he & I have). Hope to install it by this coming Spring.

http://stores.ebay.com/Holley-Performance_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amewaQ3amesstQQtZ km

-Chris
Colorado, USA

 

Whoops- my bad. You are correct, Edelbrock's are Performers, Holley's are Avengers.

 

ok cool. thanks a lot. ive been thiniking of a new carb for some time.
when i brought back the starter to the auto part store they wouldnt take it back because it tested fine. they said it'd be the wiring and it might not be getting enough power. does this sound right?
and to wire it theres 1 wire from solenoid to starter, 1 from ground to starter and thats it. and the + battery cable goes to solenoid and 1 wire from alternator goes to solenoid. is that all right? and what voltage should starter be getting? 12v?

 

Sure, I've seen this before - where the starter doesn't get enough juice to fully engage with the (in my case) flywheel. There's this thing called the Bendix in the starter assembly that lets the starter apply power to the flywheel but doesn't let the flywheel turn the starter (when the engine begins running). Flywheel == flexplate in this situation.

Not sure about your description of "one wire from ground to starter" I've never seen that before. Nor do I remember the wiring between the alternator/regulator & solenoid; some of those solenoids have two small-gauge wires, others have only one. Regardless, you should be able to jump the battery + cable to the small protrusion on the solenoid (small-gauge wire attached to it) ***that is closest to the battery's + cable***; doing this is the same as turning the key and will cause the solenoid to apply power to the starter motor. Supply power to the coil while doing this and you've just hot-wired the engine but that's a different topic....

In my experience, a fully-charged battery solved my problem. I'd expect you to be getting around 14.2 volts from the battery to the starter. If you have a battery charger that can also jump-start the car, that'd be cool, you could see if you have the same problems with a known-full power source applied to the thing.

-ct

 

ok thanks. theres two small gauge wires to the solenoid. one looks like it went to the alternator. and the starter doesnt go to ground but to the - battery.

but the weird thing is i just put the same starter back in, didnt change anything. and it fires up and sounds great. so it mightve slipped out of plce and i didnt notice but im relived i didnt have to take of the tranny.
thank you all for the help.

 

Ya sometimes if its not shimmed right, it will sit at the wrong angle and grind. Thats how you eat flexplate teeth, thankfully you replaced it before it destroyed your flexplate.

 

Yup; if it's not situated & aligned correctly, problems like this can result. The same problems can be a symptom of inadequate electrical power, too. I really don't like it when you change nothing, merely take it apart and put it back together, and it starts working. I don't get any warm, fuzzy feelings in such situations. But if it's working, I'd leave well enough alone, at least for now. Yeah, tranny removal generally sucks, especially when it's 6 degF in the dead of winter....

-Chris
Colorado, USA

 

This brings us back to my first response, when I said it could be a cable, starter solenoid, or even a bad connection, and I think you may still be in for problems down the road. Those little wires have a tendency to break right under the sleeve over the connector and touch sometimes and sometimes not, which makes diagnosis a real pain. I'd check them and all the rest of the connections. I'd take them all off and look at them and I'd wiggle stuff around and try to find that gremlin- or carry some warm old thermal coveralls and a toolbox with me.

 

its not that cold. im in florida. but yeha its some little electrical gremlin probably.
happy new year to y'all though