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I have a 1994 F350 with a efi 460. It has always been hard to start when it was warm (taking about 4-5 seconds of cranking), but it would start cold perfectly.
Just recently it got much worse. Now it will start fine cold but will not start AT ALL when it's warm, and it will die a minute or two after being started.
I recently did a compression check and all cyliners were Ok, but not great. If I remember right all cylinders were 116-124 with one cylinder being at about 106.
It sounds like something fuel related to me, like it runs fine with the choke on but won't start at all with it off. Does anyone know where I can start to troubleshoot this?
I was thinking about maybe the fuel pressure regulator. I know there isn't much to go on here, but if anyone can start me in the right direction for troubleshooting I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Jan-03 AT 01:00 AM (EST)]Pop off the distributor cap and grab a socket to turn the crank. Rotate the crank while looking at the rotor. If the rotor turns with the crank stop and turn it slowly the other way. What you are doing is looking at how much slack you have in the timing chain. If you notice the rotor isn't following the crank when turned you may have a worn chain. If timing chain is worn out, the compression is suffering as a result. Just a start for what I can come up with off the top of my head.
I used to have a problem like this, turned out to be worn distributor bushings. Once the bushings warmed and expanded, the rotor flopped around too much to start w/o me getting out and adjusting the timing.
How does it turn over, I mean when it is warm, or cold. The reason I ask is because I had an 88 F-350 with a 460, and had a very similar problem. I tried a lot of things, and it ended up being the starter. Yep, the starter. The thing would start fine cold, but when it was warm, the dang thing would barely crank. When it did start, it would run a little while then die. Turns out, that the starter was drawing so much juice, that it killed the battery, to the point where the alternator would not even charge it. If this is not your problem, try changing fuel filters and also try the fuel pump reset switch. That isn't supposed to do anything unless your in an accident, then it shuts off the fuel, but maybe, just resetting it might work.
Thanks for the advice...I've yet to find the time to try it out, work has been killing me.
As far as the starter, I think it's fine. It'll crank over pretty fast and for long periods of time. I have an Optima dry cell battery and it seems to be holding up pretty well. I even tried ether once, usually that stuff will start anything.
I still need to get out there and check that timing chain. Thanks again for the advice, I really appreciate it.
You need to get you a repair manual, an ohm meter and check the resistance of the reluctor or is it stator inside the distributor when it is hot and won't crank. I bet you find that this is your problem.
I checked the timinig chain slack using the method above and it was fine, nice and tight. I also pulled the distributor out and can't feel any play at all in the distributor bushings.
I haven't checked the resistance of the stator yet, not quite sure how to do that but I'll find out and give it a try.
I ran a KOEO test on it and it put out code 98 and 998 both represent a "hard fault" in the EEC IV system. I called the dealers parts department and they said it could be anything and that I should have it towed in to have it looked at. Typical.
Does anyone know if this error code means that I need to replace the computer?
Check the negitive wire to the frame from the battery and to the starter. Mine did the same thing and found that the wire had a bad spot in it cutting the volts to the battery.
Ok I have done everything...Heat shielding around starter, Replaced cables to solenoid and starter and grounding cables, tested timing, replaced injectors, and fuel pressure controller, tested fuel pumps banged my head against wall, then I rapped on one of my fuel pump relays and it started hot.... I replaced both relays and voila it now starts perfectly hot!!!!! These relays run really hot and oxidize in the plug connectors. I cleaned it up and nooxed the connectors all is good with the world. So, if this issue is still a mystery for you guys, check the relays. Strange that they worked cool and running down the road for hours, but not on hot restart. hmmm.. engineers????
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