1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

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Old 12-23-2007, 01:34 PM
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Happy Holidays everyone! I did a couple of searches on my dilemma and didn't really find anything that covered what I've got going on here, so I thought I'd post and see what input I get back. I have had terrific luck with the site in the past.
Last week the starter started sounding like I had a set of batteries going dead. Slow cranking, hard start etc., so I thought I'd go and get a set of batts from the Walmart (MAXX-65N) and throw them in. Second set I put in after a glow plug replacement were MAXX's and I have been happy with them. Truck is a '95 F250 Supercab with a longbed and 4" Lift with Wrangler RT2s. Engine is stock with the exception of a NAPA 6637 Intake system (thanks FTE site). So, new batts in, posts and terminals cleaned and vaselined, connections all good battery wise anyway. I get in and turn it over and it still cranks like maybe only one battery is working. With truck running, I checked the volts at both batteries and I get a reading of about 15 volts on my voltmeter. Glow plug relay still works, otherwise I don't think it would start with the starter dragging like it does. So, to sum up, brand new batteries, manufactured Dec. 07, starter still dragging, seemingly good voltage for a charge from the alternator (15volts), drove it about 25 miles after battery replacement to make sure they were charged up, even put them both on a 2 amp trickle charger overnight to make sure they were topped off charger read charged.
I am going out now to see if I can find someone to check the alternator today (Sunday) to eliminate that potential problem. Any ideas you guys have will be welcome. I usually can figure out whats going on electrically, but I am STUMPED on this one. Thanks for your help in advance, I know Santa is going to be packing some serious hardware for all you good boys and girls out there in FTE land.
 
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Old 12-23-2007, 03:45 PM
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Check the connections at the solynoid on the passebger fender, then check the connections at the starter itself. Those eliminated, maybe new starter time. I just replaced muine. Got a brand new, not rebuilt from Napa for about $220
 
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:14 PM
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Just before I bought my truck the owner had the same problem.

He replaced both batteries .... same thing.
He replaced the starter ......... problem fixed

I bought the truck.
 
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Old 12-24-2007, 04:36 PM
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Update on the situation- Went to an auto parts store and had them do an evaluation on the charging system. Their machine said there was excessive rippling occuring at one of the batteries. Internet search turned up this rippling problem and is very interesting reading, any of you ever hear of excessive rippling ? Seems that with this condition, AC current makes its way from the alternator to the batteries allowing the batteries to discharge into the alternator without ever being charged. This condition occurs when there is a bad diode or several inside the alternator (alternator going bad). Sounded like maybe that's what was happening with my truck, so long story short LOL I bought a new alternator to go with the two new batteries in the truck and we'll see if that starter speed doesn't get better. I drove 'er around town a little bit after replacing the alternator and there seemed to be no improvement. If no better next week, I guess I'll be out checking to see who in town has a starter I can buy.
 
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Old 12-24-2007, 05:06 PM
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Very interesting indeed. Thank you for that information.
 
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Old 12-24-2007, 05:50 PM
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Look on the bright side, ya got new batteries, alternator, and maybe new starter. Sorry, I know you were looking to avoid cost of starter. OK, down to the rippling thing. Both batteries are in parallel and yes the alternator does have diodes to convert the AC generated to pulsing DC current. If only one battery shows rippling then I'm sure would look at the connection between them, passenger side -> driver side. They should indicate the same voltage - ripple, unless you just got a defective battery.

You can put a volt meter on one battery and crank then the other one. Both batteries should show about the same load. It's not unheard of purchasing a new battery with a flaky cell. More than likely though a bad battery connector or starter.

Did you crawl under the truck and verify a tight electrical connection on the starter?

Most auto stores will do a load test on the starter before you need to purchase a new one so try that.
 
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Old 12-24-2007, 07:00 PM
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I just remembered something for safety to keep in mind and i wanted to pass it along.
About 15 years ago, a friend was working under his truck near the starter, He reached up just behind the starter and his wedding band short circuited the hotwire to ground. It instantly welded his ring and could not pull it away till it melted off. Needless to say, all that was left was bone where the ring was. When working on a vehicle, I take my wedding ring off.
 
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Old 12-24-2007, 07:43 PM
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Just a thought.....Did you do an AMP check on the cable going to the starter to acertain the amperage that the starter is pulling??

Rog
 
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Old 12-25-2007, 01:07 AM
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Well pstroke7_3 I just went through a similar deal with my 1997 PS a couple of weeks ago. I took my truck to a local generator shop.The owner is a friend of mine. He checked my batteries out an told me they looked fine. He then told me to crank it up. Which I did several times. Then he give me the news saying it was probally the starter. He let me have the new starter for 154.00 bucks. An whala just like the day I bought it brand new. My starter lasted for 154,000 miles if that helps.Good luck,an I hope you git-r fixed soon.
 
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Old 12-25-2007, 08:59 AM
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My starter acted similar when I bought mine. I remember the very first time I started it and I thought maybe the owner would go down a little because "the batteries were weak". They tested fine and I replaced the starter soon after I bought the truck. Seems to me these starters die a slow death compared to other types.
 
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:58 AM
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It's been posted before, but I'll do it again. The problem is probably nothing more than the ground connections on the brush plate at the back of the starter. There are 4 brushes w/ very heavy cables on the plate for better contact, but they are mounted on a plate that is held to the back cap with 2 very small screws. These screws are insulated, so they don't actually provide any grounding, but they are supposed to hold the plate tightly against the inside of the cap, where there are 4 lugs that the plate rests against. These are each about 3/8" square, and are the only means of providing grounding to starter.

Anyway, it doesn't take much to start a little arcing here, and soon the starter goes slower and slower. Try tighting the 2 little screws at the back of the starter, and it will probably work much better, for a little while at least. The easy fix is to remove the starter, remove the back cap, clean these grounding lugs and scrape them flat (cast alumimum), coat with electrical contact grease and reassemble. Worked for me in the middle of a parking lot, and that's been 1-1/2 years ago, and no more problems. And it cranks better/faster than it had at any time in the previous 3 years.

Or buy a new starter if you would rather lighten your wallet by around $200. Either way will likely solve the problem, I just prefer saving money when I can.
 
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Old 12-25-2007, 10:06 AM
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Good information MDB, Ill put that in my arcive. Certainly won't hurt anything as one has to remove the starter anyway, and might just save a couple hundred.
 
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:37 AM
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Talking

Thank you one and all for the great info. I have been working the last week and a half, so the truck has been on the back burner. As long as the truck is plugged in, or I let the glow plugs cycle a time or two, I have been able to get the truck started in temperatures down into the low 30s. I think the biggest problem I'm having is believing that (as brown 4X4 states) the starters on these trucks die a slow death. All other rigs I've had to replace starters on either worked or they didn't. There was no slowing down. 'Course none of them were diesels either. So, I will check the brush plate and the grounding connections at the back of the starter tomorrow and see if that's not the culprit, and if not, I will be more than happy to go out and pay for a new starter. The one on there now is the original and has over 174K on it anyway. With as much as I run this rig in town, it's probably got twice as many starts as an average truck has on it anyway. Again, thanks to all who posted with their input, I really appreciate it.
 

Last edited by pstroke7_3; 01-08-2008 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 11-21-2008, 09:01 PM
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I also thank MBD about the starter info. Mine was cranking very slow, took it apart cleaned it up good works like new.
 




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