1994 F350 7.3 IDI turbo E4OD Trans.
While towing a camper this summer my transmission dumped all of the fluid on the ground. The truck lost all transmission engagement. The fluid came out the tube at the bottom of the torque converter housing. I put more fluid in to limp along until I ran out. The tranny was smoking and I thought for sure I had burned it up. The truck was towed home and sat for about 2 months. I replaced the tranny fluid and the truck is running ok. I belive the trans is running in emergency mode, the overdrive light is flashing and it shifts hard. This is the second tranny for the truck and it does have an in line trans filter. About a year ago I was backing in my driveway with a camper and had the trans dump the fluid out of the same tube on the conv. housing. What causes this dumping of fluid? What contributes to the flashing O.D. light, sensor(s)? Should I trust the tranny? So many questions... any help much appreciated!!

 

My fathers e4od experienced this also backing in his 30 some foot 5th wheel camper. What is happening is it over heats, and the seals can't hold the pressure so it relieves itself. The cure on my dad's was to add another cooler and take the radiator out of the atf cooling system. There is also a hole in the trans you can enlarge IIRC from 3/16 to 1/4 to increase flow. Check with a reputable transmission shop on that one.

 

Fluid Leakage in Converter Area

In diagnosing and correcting fluid leaks in the converter area, use the following procedures to locate the exact cause of the leakage. Leakage at the front of the transmission as evidenced by fluid around the converter housing, may have several sources. By careful observation it is possible, in many instances, to pinpoint the source of the leak before removing the transmission from the vehicle. The paths which the fluid can take to reach the bottom of the converter housing are as follows.


Possible Converter Area Leak Points



1. Fluid leaking by the converter impeller hub seal lip will tend to move along the converter impeller hub and onto the back of the impeller housing. Except in the case of a total seal failure, fluid leakage by the lip of the seal will be deposited on the inside of the converter housing only, near the outside diameter of the housing.

2. Fluid leakage by the outside diameter of the converter hub seal and the case will follow the same path which the leaks by the inside diameter of the seal follow.

3. Fluid leakage from the converter to the flywheel stud weld will appear at the outer diameter of the converter on the back face of the flywheel, and in the converter housing only near the flywheel. If a converter-to-flywheel stud leak is suspected, remove converter and pressure check as outlined.

4. Fluid leakage from the pump will flow down the back of the converter housing. Leakage may be from loose or missing pump bolts, torn or damaged pump-to-case gasket and/or a worn pump bushing.

5. Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as transmission pump seal leaks. The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem.

a. Leakage at the rocker arm cover may allow oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and cylinder block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing.

b. Oil gallery plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the converter housing.

c. Leakage at the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing.

6. The following procedures should be used to determine the cause of the leakage before service is made.

a. Remove the transmission dipstick and note the color of the fluid. Original factory fill fluid is dyed red to aid in determining if leakage is from the engine or transmission. Unless a considerable amount of makeup fluid has been added or the fluid has been changed, the red color should assist in pinpointing the leak.

b. Remove the converter housing cover. Clean off any fluid from the top and bottom of the converter housing, front of the transmission case, and rear face of the engine and oil pan. Clean the converter area by washing with suitable nonflammable solvent, and blow dry with compressed air.

c. Wash out converter housing and the front of the flywheel. The converter housing may be washed out using clean solvent and a squirt-type oil can. Blow all washed areas dry with compressed air.

d. Start and run the engine until the transmission reaches its normal operating temperature. Observe the back of the block and top of the converter housing for evidence of fluid leakage. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle. Run the engine at fast idle, then at engine idle, occasionally shifting to the drive and reverse ranges to increase pressure within the transmission. Observe the front of the flywheel, back of the block (in as far as possible), and inside the converter housing and front of the transmission case. Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined.

 

the converter seal failed due to overheating , the number one reason is slippage of the torque converter clutch at road speed however it can also happen during in town towing when the converter generates the most heat . search the web for SUPERIOR TRANSMISSION they have a pump modification kit called a code 62 kit a larger cooler is also a plus but under no means should you bypass the radiator cooler it is hard to remove heat from any oil nan air only cooler is not efficient enough due to the volume of fluid that passes through it the coolant in the radiator transfers the heat from the trans fluid more efficiently than the air only cooler then it can reduce it further

 

http://www.superior-transmission.com...rs/code_62.htm