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ha! This really is a crappy job. I have replaced alot of them in rangers,f-150's and explorer's.They can be a pain in the ****. Why do you want to bleed it for?
If there's air in the system, something's wrong. Unless you just had something apart. These are about the easiest system to bleed though from my experience. I've done many by myself with a short 2x4 against the seat to hold the clutch down.
For some reason all of a sudden one day I went out to my truck and the clutch pedal would go half way to the floor and finally start to compress. It barley disengages enough to shift. I checked the fluid and it was really low, if not basically empty. So I figured alittle air might have gotten into the system.
You probably have a leak somewhere. If you don't see any around the clutch master cylinder, crawl underneath and look around the bellhousing area for fluid leakage. There's a rubber plug you can remove and shine a flashlight up to sorta see the slave cylinder.
Check the bell housing to see if the bottom of it is wet, then determine if it's engine oil or brake fluid. If it's engine oil, that would be the rear main seal. (See my gallery). If it's brake fluid, that would be the slave cylinder. Chances are, if the slave's gone, the master has bypassed too. It's about to get a little expensive, but not a hard job. Just guessing, if you do Master, Slave, disc, plate, and pilot, you're looking at about $500 in parts. The rear main will add about $15 to the job. I wouldn't pull one with significant mileage on it for a clutch without doing the rear main along with it. Like I said, see my gallery and look at the "Drooling 5.0 album" The procedure for a slave or rear main seal is pretty much identical. You're there anyway, why not do both?
I had better luck bleeding it backwards. Open set screw on top of slave cylinder, push rod into slave, hold wile you tighten the set screw, repeat. Be verry care full with the plastic slave cylindar, it strips easy.
I had better luck bleeding it backwards. Open set screw on top of slave cylinder, push rod into slave, hold wile you tighten the set screw, repeat. Be verry care full with the plastic slave cylindar, it strips easy.
That is the best way (and sometimes the only way) to do it with an external slave cylinder. The M5OD uses an internal slave and you have to bleed it the other way. I've never had much trouble getting air out of them though.