on my 93 f150 4.9l 5sp i am swaping out the mazda m5od to the zf transmisson cause the slave cylinder went on the m5od so i had purchased one to put on then i found a zf 5spd for a good deal i got and the slave cylinder was bad but i had the whole thing rebuilt but when i got the new slave cylinder had that new clip connection on the fitting part of the slave cylinder where the little u-clip goes around the hose fitting. but when i had the transmission on i tried to get that clip on and i couldnt. it was pissing me off because i had to pull the transmisson all the way off again to try and get the clip on, and i couldnt get it to stay on, so i took the connection off my m50d slave cylinder and swaped it onto the slave cylinder of the zf because that was that fuel line type connector where the hydralic line would stay on.

but i had also replaced the master cylinder and didnt really do a bench bleeding of the master and slave cylinder, now im trying to bleed the system on the truck i cant seem to get it to work.


what am i doing wrong?

-i open the bleed screw and let the fluid free flow so no bubbles are left, then i close the line
-then i fill the resivour back up and put the cap back on
-then i go into the truck and push the clutch pedle down quick and release, then wait 2 sec then do it again 10 times then basically a total of 60 times the chilton manual says, but i get a little pressure and nothing else when im doing the pedle.

i even tried a hand held brake bleeder to try and get the air out and nothing happened expect a little more pressure on the pedle but not much difference

 

internal or external slave?

 

with reservoir about half full and bleeder closed , pump repeatedly , 10 time or so , and hold pedal to the floor , open bleeder to let out fluid , close bleeder. Repeat about ten times , check reservoir fluid every two times and fill back to half full.
Repeat until you are getting consistently solid fluid out of the slave bleeder. I ve found that you don't really get your " pedal " until the very end of the procedure.

It takes two people !

 

internal slave. i will try that today. i was kindof doing it that ay but i had the clutch pedle up so it was letting air in. is it a possibilty to take the hand held brake bleeder pump and have someone hold the pedle down and i pump the fluid out?


just so i dont have to start a new thread, is a close ratio gear ratio zf good for towing?

 

its weird i took the master cylinder off and used a screw driver to try and hand prime it and it was fully primed where i couldnt push it in at all, the rod on the clutch pedle wasnt going in far enough to disengage the clutch, so what i did was took a nut and taped the end of the rod and put the nut on and it works fine. i dont know why a rod wouldnt push far enough when it is stock.

 

Did you buy the slave cylinder for a '93 truck or for an older model? I think the master cylinder piston diameter was reduced in '93, so if you used an older slave cylinder, the new master cylinder won't move enough fluid to get the proper stroke at the slave. Maybe something else was wrong and that wasn't the problem in this case. Glad you got it fixed.

 

i got the slave for a 89 f250 which the transmission came out of, the master was for a 93, i had the master sitting for a year casue i broke the clutch rod before and the only way to buy it was get a new master, it was plastic on the end that connected to the pedal and it kept breaking so i went to the junkyard and got a rod out of a older f150 because it was all metal not part plastic, and all i had to so was cut it down just a little and grind the end a little smaller, i will check the parts stores and see if they are same part numbers for a 89 and 93 slave cylinder

 

well napa online says the part number for the 89 f250 with a 5.0l says 73002b and the 93 f250 5.0l says 73003b, would it matter on the size, and should i worry about it failing since i have the 89 part in my tranmission?

 

With mis-matched parts etc, not sure what to tell you to do really. :/

But I can tell you that the air-escape and fluid-intake hole is at the very
end of the "out" stroke on the master cylinder and there needs to be a
slight amount of play in the rod. At the same time if you get the vehicle
nose down, the air will escape better.

Worked for me! LOL :)

I swapped the sorry little clutch pushrod out for a brake push rod (along
with it's larger nylon bearing) and also swapped-out the wornout clutch
rod stud too...

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pushrods.jpg

Had to cut off the end of the Brake pushrod a second time to get it the
right length tho... :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pushrod.jpg

All my hydraulic clutch parts were ordered from Rockauto for a '90 F250
and the thing pretty much bled itself to perfection, but the -rear- of the
'91 Bronco was still blocked up high from the ZF swap. That might have
made the difference?

Might try it and get back to us about that?
Better than pumping the heck out of it IMO.

Alvin in AZ

 

where is bleeder scew? i have a 93 f150 and replaced clutch 2 years ago but sat and now will barely wants to move. Would it have anything to do with piece inside cab on firewall

QUOTE] [QUOTE[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

 

Where is the bleeder screw at?