CCT / Injectors
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
CCT / Injectors
Ok...continuing my injector saga. I had the shop replace 2,4,6,8 since CCT showed 8 definitely bad and 4 pretty bad. Went ahead and replaced them all. They put in 2 different #8's and still showed not perfect. No compression issues. They said IDM (or is it ICM?) module could be faulty. Truck was immediately quiter (got rid of #8 Long Lead injector) and ran a little better in the mid-range of the throttle which was a trouble spot......for 25 miles.
Got home, parked it for 2-3 hours and went to get some fuel. VERY rough idle....VERY little power. Felt like was choked down or only running on 4 cylinders. NEVER, EVER done that before. Drove it easy 2-3 miles to the station...suddenly....back to normal and runs pretty good. No smoke during any of this. What in the heck was this? Truly flakely IDM? Air? Something else to worry about?
I just really badly want to get my issue(s) resolved and drive the truck. My normal luck is...fix something marginally broken...then end up spending more $$ on something else that is truly broken. THOUGHTS?
Got home, parked it for 2-3 hours and went to get some fuel. VERY rough idle....VERY little power. Felt like was choked down or only running on 4 cylinders. NEVER, EVER done that before. Drove it easy 2-3 miles to the station...suddenly....back to normal and runs pretty good. No smoke during any of this. What in the heck was this? Truly flakely IDM? Air? Something else to worry about?
I just really badly want to get my issue(s) resolved and drive the truck. My normal luck is...fix something marginally broken...then end up spending more $$ on something else that is truly broken. THOUGHTS?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 1
From: house springs,mo
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Yeah, well I would be taking a real hard look at all of my wiring just to be sure. Again, when you said an entire side was down I doubted it was all 4 jectors and was leaning toward a harness/connection problem. I still feel that way. At least I'm hoping anyway.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Yeah, well I would be taking a real hard look at all of my wiring just to be sure. Again, when you said an entire side was down I doubted it was all 4 jectors and was leaning toward a harness/connection problem. I still feel that way. At least I'm hoping anyway.
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
From: Millbrook Alabama
Originally Posted by aocabrown
Thanks Tenn.....I asked them about that. They actually put on a new harness and did a CCT and KOEO test. Same results...so they assumed form that the original harness was good. The took the new harness back off and left the old one. I'm just wondering if a) they left something loose under the valve cover or b) the IDM is bad...and for whatever reason, I've just now seen the worst of it. I couldn't do 35 MPH out of the neighborhood.....then fairly suddenly...back to normal.
make sure your 9 pin connector is secure on the outside of the vc, and then make sure it is secure on the inside of the vc, I'm like Mike I think this is a harness or IDM problem.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
Remeber after an injector change (be it 1 or 4 or all 8) there will be air trapped in the gallies, and it can take up to 100 miles of driving before it works itself out.(thats a long shot though)
make sure your 9 pin connector is secure on the outside of the vc, and then make sure it is secure on the inside of the vc, I'm like Mike I think this is a harness or IDM problem.
make sure your 9 pin connector is secure on the outside of the vc, and then make sure it is secure on the inside of the vc, I'm like Mike I think this is a harness or IDM problem.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
Well, I let it sit overnight. Started today....same issue....rough idle, no power, 35 mph max. I really don't want to wait to take it to the shop after Christmas. Was wondering....if I wanted to check the harness under the valve cover....what are the steps. I think remove intake, remove IC tube, remove valve cover. I can probably handle that. What I'm not sure about it putting it back on. Same gasket? Gasket sealant? Bolt tighten pattern and torque?
If it isn't the harness I'm considering grabbing an IDM off Ebay...'rebuilt' for $250 and 'pulled from working truck' for $150. Either beats $750 at the stealership since I'm not 100% sure that's the fix and you can't take them back once you install them.
Very frustrating. Thougts?
If it isn't the harness I'm considering grabbing an IDM off Ebay...'rebuilt' for $250 and 'pulled from working truck' for $150. Either beats $750 at the stealership since I'm not 100% sure that's the fix and you can't take them back once you install them.
Very frustrating. Thougts?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
VC gaskets are reusable. Pretty much what you said, remove stuff in the way and pull them off. I don't have the bolt tq #s at my fingertips now.
I don't want to give out buy stuff advice when troubleshooting over the internet. While you may need a new IDM, there are any number of things that can cause problems. The tranny front pump may be going out or the TC is toast. These will not throw a IDM code to my knowledge. Your 1294 code may even be causing the IDM code so if that gets fixed it may go away. You see how we're living?
I don't want to give out buy stuff advice when troubleshooting over the internet. While you may need a new IDM, there are any number of things that can cause problems. The tranny front pump may be going out or the TC is toast. These will not throw a IDM code to my knowledge. Your 1294 code may even be causing the IDM code so if that gets fixed it may go away. You see how we're living?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
Thanks again Tenn. Right in the middle of duck hunting season and my hunting truck on the skids....looked pitiful in the honda pilot this morning at 5:30...2 guys, gear, dog etc. gotta get my truck back. Might tackle the valve cover harness check tomorrow if it is nice weather...can't fit the rig in the garage.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
Well, I couldn't take it any longer and tore into the engine this morning. Took the valve cover off to inspect the UVC harness. It looked fine but I disconnected / reconnected just to be sure. Didn't see anything else out of the ordinary. Truck still running on about 4-6 cylinders.
While I was in there I started looking for the locatin of the IDM which has reported as bad. I know you have to take the drivers side inner fender off. FOr the life of me I couldn't tell a) how anything could be under/behind that piece and b) how in the world that piece comes off to begin with.
Any thoughts on this and how to obtain a cheap part to test this with. I don't want to take it back to same shop for a $1,000 job again....especially since they left one valve cover bolt about 50% of the way out. If I can farily easily purchase and replace I'd rather do that myself.
THANKS
While I was in there I started looking for the locatin of the IDM which has reported as bad. I know you have to take the drivers side inner fender off. FOr the life of me I couldn't tell a) how anything could be under/behind that piece and b) how in the world that piece comes off to begin with.
Any thoughts on this and how to obtain a cheap part to test this with. I don't want to take it back to same shop for a $1,000 job again....especially since they left one valve cover bolt about 50% of the way out. If I can farily easily purchase and replace I'd rather do that myself.
THANKS
