Need Help troubleshooting codes
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Need Help troubleshooting codes
Okay, 1999 F-350 DRW 4x4 Crew Cab, automatic transmission. xlt trim
206,000 miles. have owned the truck a couple of years, bought at 140K or so.
Had an intermittent problem with a SES light flickering and reduced power, terrible mileage. this was off and on for 20K miles. a whole lot more good than bad which made me give up on fixing because I could not dupliate to diagnose.
now SES all the time. less response, steady 35-45 MPH driving produces a miss and vibration. WOT less power but no vibration.
codes
P 0470- (already replaced the Exhaust Backpressure sensor, also replaced the tube because I broke after an hour or 2 of trying to clean out. ) this may have helped a little, but didn't fix
P1316 Ignition diagnostics monitor fault . ???
it also had
P 1105 and P1106 stored but did not return after clearing. the other two popped back immediately.
the codes haven't been reread since dealing with the P0470
I also removed the battery cables for a couple of hours after replacing the sensor. I don't know if that will clear the PCM on this truck or not.
valve cover gaskets?? HELP
206,000 miles. have owned the truck a couple of years, bought at 140K or so.
Had an intermittent problem with a SES light flickering and reduced power, terrible mileage. this was off and on for 20K miles. a whole lot more good than bad which made me give up on fixing because I could not dupliate to diagnose.
now SES all the time. less response, steady 35-45 MPH driving produces a miss and vibration. WOT less power but no vibration.
codes
P 0470- (already replaced the Exhaust Backpressure sensor, also replaced the tube because I broke after an hour or 2 of trying to clean out. ) this may have helped a little, but didn't fix
P1316 Ignition diagnostics monitor fault . ???
it also had
P 1105 and P1106 stored but did not return after clearing. the other two popped back immediately.
the codes haven't been reread since dealing with the P0470
I also removed the battery cables for a couple of hours after replacing the sensor. I don't know if that will clear the PCM on this truck or not.
valve cover gaskets?? HELP
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
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From: Millbrook Alabama
First what are you using to scan the codes? Next refer to this page for your code explanations http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/dtc.html
Click on the range of codes at the bottom to get a definition
1316= injector circuit/IDM codes detected
1105 and 1106 are for a dual alternator truck, is yours a dual alternator?
It sounds like you may have a UVC harness coming loose, or a bad injector, or worse your IDM may be about to let go.
IDM= Injector Driver Module
Click on the range of codes at the bottom to get a definition
1316= injector circuit/IDM codes detected
1105 and 1106 are for a dual alternator truck, is yours a dual alternator?
It sounds like you may have a UVC harness coming loose, or a bad injector, or worse your IDM may be about to let go.
IDM= Injector Driver Module
Last edited by bdrummonds; Dec 21, 2007 at 10:41 PM.
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the codes were scanned by an independant garage. can't remember the name of the scanner.
also the truck does not have dual alternators.
the garage that scanned told me to pull the valve covers and look at the wires.
also the truck does not have dual alternators.
the garage that scanned told me to pull the valve covers and look at the wires.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 1
From: house springs,mo
u need to check this connecter under the valve covers not to hard to do!
<a href="http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii239/medhvac/?action=view¤t=driverside2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii239/medhvac/driverside2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
I completely agree.. you need to pull both valves covers (gaskets are reuseable) and you probably will find the 9 pin plastic connector is loose.. (mine was about 1/4" loose).. At the same time inspect all the wiring harness for rubbing and shorts. To fixed the connectors, i just made a home made shim to slip behind the plastic locking tabs. This will stop the connector from coming apart.. see my gallery for pic of my shim.... Or.. you can buy a plastic clip from Ford which does the same thing..
Using the shim method, the cost of repair = $0.
Using the shim method, the cost of repair = $0.
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i was reading somewhere the ohm readings (proper) for the gp relay and the injector wiring in the outside of the plug. I cannot locate it after a search in this forum. whould anyone know this. it had the labeling of the plug along with a ohm reading so I could test without pulling the covers. (hopefully)
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 2
From: Chattanooga, TN
Hey Medhvac,
Nice pic of that UVC harness!
I recently had that same P1316 code and my injector buzz test results were fine. So, I pulled the driver's side VC (easiest to start with) and sure 'nuff, the harness had separated approx. 1/4" or more causing a very loose connection. My harness also did not have those plastic clips to hold the two halves together. You can push the two halves together and that's fine for now, but down the road will eventually separate again.
I do not see the plastic clip on your pic Medhavc - did you put that in after the pic?
My pics did not turn out as good as yours.
Therefore, suggest someone do that injector buzz test and if the code P1316 is still there, then the UVC is likely the culprit.
The plastic clips come three to a pack, one for each side and one spare. Just be sure to protect the oil drain holes with rags, paper towels or whatever.
And as Clintbonnie mentioned, do check to make sure the electrical wires in there are not against the push rod or any other moving parts.
Good luck,
Nice pic of that UVC harness!
I recently had that same P1316 code and my injector buzz test results were fine. So, I pulled the driver's side VC (easiest to start with) and sure 'nuff, the harness had separated approx. 1/4" or more causing a very loose connection. My harness also did not have those plastic clips to hold the two halves together. You can push the two halves together and that's fine for now, but down the road will eventually separate again.
I do not see the plastic clip on your pic Medhavc - did you put that in after the pic?
My pics did not turn out as good as yours.
Therefore, suggest someone do that injector buzz test and if the code P1316 is still there, then the UVC is likely the culprit.
The plastic clips come three to a pack, one for each side and one spare. Just be sure to protect the oil drain holes with rags, paper towels or whatever.
And as Clintbonnie mentioned, do check to make sure the electrical wires in there are not against the push rod or any other moving parts.
Good luck,
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by start2finish
i was reading somewhere the ohm readings (proper) for the gp relay and the injector wiring in the outside of the plug. I cannot locate it after a search in this forum. whould anyone know this. it had the labeling of the plug along with a ohm reading so I could test without pulling the covers. (hopefully)
To check the harness ohm it at the Valve cover connector on the outside.
Pin Out
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
***The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM do not pierce to wires to test.***
Ohm between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms
To check glow plugs Ohm between "G" and battery ground should be between 0.1 and 2.0 Ohms
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Originally Posted by lhud
Hey Medhvac,
Nice pic of that UVC harness!
I recently had that same P1316 code and my injector buzz test results were fine. So, I pulled the driver's side VC (easiest to start with) and sure 'nuff, the harness had separated approx. 1/4" or more causing a very loose connection. My harness also did not have those plastic clips to hold the two halves together. You can push the two halves together and that's fine for now, but down the road will eventually separate again.
I do not see the plastic clip on your pic Medhavc - did you put that in after the pic?
My pics did not turn out as good as yours.
Therefore, suggest someone do that injector buzz test and if the code P1316 is still there, then the UVC is likely the culprit.
The plastic clips come three to a pack, one for each side and one spare. Just be sure to protect the oil drain holes with rags, paper towels or whatever.
And as Clintbonnie mentioned, do check to make sure the electrical wires in there are not against the push rod or any other moving parts.
Good luck,
Nice pic of that UVC harness!
I recently had that same P1316 code and my injector buzz test results were fine. So, I pulled the driver's side VC (easiest to start with) and sure 'nuff, the harness had separated approx. 1/4" or more causing a very loose connection. My harness also did not have those plastic clips to hold the two halves together. You can push the two halves together and that's fine for now, but down the road will eventually separate again.
I do not see the plastic clip on your pic Medhavc - did you put that in after the pic?
My pics did not turn out as good as yours.
Therefore, suggest someone do that injector buzz test and if the code P1316 is still there, then the UVC is likely the culprit.
The plastic clips come three to a pack, one for each side and one spare. Just be sure to protect the oil drain holes with rags, paper towels or whatever.
And as Clintbonnie mentioned, do check to make sure the electrical wires in there are not against the push rod or any other moving parts.
Good luck,
oil drain holes? sounds like trouble, please explain.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Originally Posted by lhud
Hey Medhvac,
Nice pic of that UVC harness!
Just be sure to protect the oil drain holes with rags, paper towels or whatever.
Good luck,
Nice pic of that UVC harness!
Just be sure to protect the oil drain holes with rags, paper towels or whatever.
Good luck,
Plug the drain holes?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 2
From: Chattanooga, TN
Start2Finish,
The oil drain holes are located on the perimeter edge of the head on the lower side.
This allows the oil that lubes the valve springs, push rods, etc. to drain and be recycled.
If you use the plastic retainers they can be lost down into those drain holes and maybe cause some sleepness nights for fear of damaging the engine.
Later,
The oil drain holes are located on the perimeter edge of the head on the lower side.
This allows the oil that lubes the valve springs, push rods, etc. to drain and be recycled.
If you use the plastic retainers they can be lost down into those drain holes and maybe cause some sleepness nights for fear of damaging the engine.
Later,
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