Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present. So, can you guys help me troubleshoot it myself.


By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Any primers on how the 7.3 PSD works would also be appreciated.


Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).


It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).


It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.


Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).


I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.


I am not taking it to another mechanic. Help please.


Thx's, Fred.

 

Hoo boy. Other than that, how do you like the truck?

The P1316 is usually IDM/injector harness related, as I'm sure you know by now. Looks like that's pretty well addressed. Only thing I would add is checking the harness where it drapes across the driver side valve cover to the 42 pin connector. The harness can chafe on the VC.

Another thing to check is accelerator pedal voltages. The potentiometer down there gets gunked up but a good zots of contact cleaner can do the trick. Here's a good read on the subject. LINK

Dropping mpgs is often caused by gunked up exhaust back pressure sensor. It can be carefully cleaned and the tube roto-rootered. LINK

What kind of scanner do you have? The King Kong is Autoenginuity aka AE, but often your android phone with Torque Pro app and a BT OBDII port adapter can do all ya need. FYI scanning for codes can turn off a running engine. No harm done.
I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will be along to help.

 

Some progress:

Fixed accelerator sensor, and high idle went away. Thank's Dave.

I have gotten an AE plot that shows the ICP voltage dropping out/being under-damped when I let off the accelerator ( I think I am ordering a AE with the Ford package, this seems to be the tool to troubleshoot ). Not sure what this means, but considering a new sensor is in place, my guess is a wiring break/short that is intermittent. Now on the connector that is mounted above the drivers side valve cover, the harness has compromised insulation were it rubbed against the cover. I spliced in some new wire segments, new loom, and a piece of heater hose as a guard. Whether this fixes anything, I do not know. Also, where do you get and what is the name of the special self bonding non-adhesive loom tape?

I then pulled the IDM connector. Drivers side reading 5 to 6 ohms consistent. The passenger side is reading 12 to 220 ohms and it changes if I wiggle the outside valve cover connector on the passenger side. I ohmed the 9-pin valve cover connector to the IDM connector and it seems good ( 0 to .5 ohm, although with a standard fluke and not a 4 wire meter this is an accurate number ). So I removed the valve cover and found the inside connector seated and covered in 'goo'. I pulled it off, and some of the pins were burnt to stubs.

I got a new gasket and UVC wiring harness ( ouch $$ ). I also got the Ford wedges ( both the 2C3Z-14A163-AB and the 1C3Z-14A163-AA ). The -AB does not fit the new UVC harness due to extra molded-in protrusions. The -AA can be forced in, but it does not seem correct. The extra molded protrusions also prevent the quarter trick from working. The extra molded protrusions are definitely be design, so has Ford fixed the UVC wiring harness and the wedges are no longer needed?

I do not want to button it up until I know, or Mr. Murphy will help me with the result of me having to take it apart. Also, I plan on doing the other side because the same guy who repaired this side, also claimed to repair the other. In truth, I think he tried to repair it as the connector was coated in what I believe was silicon sealant.

Also, I need a better resource for information on this truck ( torques, schematics, theory of operation of the ICP loop, ... ). Is there such an item as a Shop Manual? Other thoughts?

Thx's, Fred.

 

Search user Thomas white he has a bunch of pdf's in his sig that will help

 

Sounds like you found your problem with all those burnt pins. Replace both sides with new plugs and see what happens. (Harnesses)

 

The updated harness does not need the 50cent mod, ford fixed that problem with those extra mouldings. Hope that fixes your problem