Slopppppy steering!
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
Slopppppy steering!
Just wondering where to start to fix the sloppy steering in my truck? The previous owner changed out the PS pump, but the gear box. I was thinkin' the steering shaft joints or the whole thing. Tie-rods are fine too.
Brian
Brian
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If all your tie-rod ends and linkages are in good shape. there should be a free-play adjuster on your steering gear(it looks like a bolt with a screwdriver slot in it and a locknut holding it). To adjust it jack up your front end, loosen the locknut and tighten it a little at a time checking the freeplay as you go. Don't get it too tight or it will damage it. Then hold the screwdriver while you tighten the locknut.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
if you are talking about the 90, there is Teflon bushing held in place with a metal clip in the column. if it falls out, it will give you almost 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel. while someone gently turns the steering wheel side to side, look in the engine bay at the steering shaft between the column and steering box. if the upper shaft moves, and the lower shaft don't, the bushing is missing.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 550
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From: Hillsboro, OR
I was going to start a new post but this one looks like it fits.
My ’91 F350 (2WD, 351, C6, PS) has quite recently (within one week of driving) developed about 90 degrees of play in the steering wheel.
I replaced all the linkage last summer and Les Schwab aligned it and gave it a clean bill of health. The truck never steered better.
Then the ignition module went out so I used a rope to tow it to my local wrench (yes, I hooked to the frame, not the linkage). Well, not long after I got it back, it developed the play. I can move the wheel from 12 to 9 with no linkage part moving with the engine off or on. When I start to move from 9, it feels like it is sticking before I get the “no resistance” until 12. The adjuster screw is sticking out a good ½ to ¾ inch so I am not sure if it has been adjusted before or not.
My question is this. Is it normal for this much play to happen this fast? Could the dry steering (steering with the engine off during towing) have damaged the steering box?
My Chilton’s has very good instructions on how to adjust the steering but is worthless for diagnostic and troubleshooting information.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
My ’91 F350 (2WD, 351, C6, PS) has quite recently (within one week of driving) developed about 90 degrees of play in the steering wheel.
I replaced all the linkage last summer and Les Schwab aligned it and gave it a clean bill of health. The truck never steered better.
Then the ignition module went out so I used a rope to tow it to my local wrench (yes, I hooked to the frame, not the linkage). Well, not long after I got it back, it developed the play. I can move the wheel from 12 to 9 with no linkage part moving with the engine off or on. When I start to move from 9, it feels like it is sticking before I get the “no resistance” until 12. The adjuster screw is sticking out a good ½ to ¾ inch so I am not sure if it has been adjusted before or not.
My question is this. Is it normal for this much play to happen this fast? Could the dry steering (steering with the engine off during towing) have damaged the steering box?
My Chilton’s has very good instructions on how to adjust the steering but is worthless for diagnostic and troubleshooting information.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 550
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From: Hillsboro, OR
During a break in the rain and snow out here in Oregon, I managed to get the wife to turn the wheel while I watched the shaft.
The whole shaft moved when she turned it; top and bottom. There was no rotational play in the shafts.
I noticed that there is a telescoping square socket where the top slides into the bottom. I noticed this moving in and out about 3/16 inch with a shiny area where they meshed. I moved the plastic cover up from the steering box and saw that the shaft is attached to the shaft from the box by an industrial strength hose clamp style clamp.
When she turned the wheel, I could see the shaft moving in and out from the box about the same distance as above. I am assuming that this means that the box needs adjustment. I also noticed that there is some yellow paint on one side of the adjuster screw (a rare glimpse of sunlight this time of year) so it looks like this may have been adjusted before.
Unless you guys tell me otherwise, I am going to follow the Chilton’s and attempt to adjust it tomorrow. I will let you know of the outcome.
The whole shaft moved when she turned it; top and bottom. There was no rotational play in the shafts.
I noticed that there is a telescoping square socket where the top slides into the bottom. I noticed this moving in and out about 3/16 inch with a shiny area where they meshed. I moved the plastic cover up from the steering box and saw that the shaft is attached to the shaft from the box by an industrial strength hose clamp style clamp.
When she turned the wheel, I could see the shaft moving in and out from the box about the same distance as above. I am assuming that this means that the box needs adjustment. I also noticed that there is some yellow paint on one side of the adjuster screw (a rare glimpse of sunlight this time of year) so it looks like this may have been adjusted before.
Unless you guys tell me otherwise, I am going to follow the Chilton’s and attempt to adjust it tomorrow. I will let you know of the outcome.
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From: Grantville, PA
Originally Posted by stangbanger
mine does that how do i fix it!
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 550
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Well, from what I can tell, the steering shaft is working fine. The play I see is “in & out” from the box itself.
I talked to a friend of mine and he tells me that the shaft going into the box is actually a screw and the box is packed full of ball bearings. The adjuster screw actually lowers a plate to push those bearings back into the screw.
When the box is out of adjustment, the bearings are allowed to rise and force the shaft out.
I have to take his word on this as I have never opened a steering box but it does make sense.
So far, as long as the weather holds, I am on schedule to adjust it per the Chilton’s tomorrow. Wish me luck.
I talked to a friend of mine and he tells me that the shaft going into the box is actually a screw and the box is packed full of ball bearings. The adjuster screw actually lowers a plate to push those bearings back into the screw.
When the box is out of adjustment, the bearings are allowed to rise and force the shaft out.
I have to take his word on this as I have never opened a steering box but it does make sense.
So far, as long as the weather holds, I am on schedule to adjust it per the Chilton’s tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 550
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From: Hillsboro, OR
I talked to a frend of mine who has a '92 F150 and he said he just adjusts the screw on the steering box. I explained that Chilton's says to disconnect the return line to drain the box and then disconnect the pitman arm. Then adjust it until the steering wheel turns with the proper inch pounds torque specs.
Well, since his way sounded easier, my neighbor and I went out last night and tried to adjust it.
When I backed off the lock nut, that adjuster screw went in quite a ways before stopping. The screw was sticking up above the locknut by about a half inch. Now it is flush with it and I could not get it to go any farther. This did remove some play but the wheel still goes from about 12 to 10.
It then got too dark to work on it any more and I didn't think it would be wise to test drive it after drinking beer on New Year's Eve with possible sloppy steering
.
I will test drive it today to see if this helped any and let you know. One thing I did notice is that it seems harder to turn to the left than to the right. Does anyone know if this is normal durring adjusting?
Well, since his way sounded easier, my neighbor and I went out last night and tried to adjust it.
When I backed off the lock nut, that adjuster screw went in quite a ways before stopping. The screw was sticking up above the locknut by about a half inch. Now it is flush with it and I could not get it to go any farther. This did remove some play but the wheel still goes from about 12 to 10.
It then got too dark to work on it any more and I didn't think it would be wise to test drive it after drinking beer on New Year's Eve with possible sloppy steering
.I will test drive it today to see if this helped any and let you know. One thing I did notice is that it seems harder to turn to the left than to the right. Does anyone know if this is normal durring adjusting?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 550
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Well, I test drove it today and it was a good thing I was wearing dark pants
. I went around a corner and the wheels did not come back to center. It took all I had to bring it back to center.
Needles to say, I brought it back home. The box was tight but the wheel was still sloppy. I loosened the adjuster back up and it made the wheels turn easier but the play is still there.
Watching the shaft while someone else turns it, I see the whole shaft turn but I am seeing the clamp down by the rag joint move in and out. On closer inspection, it is the input shaft to the box that is moving in and out about 3/16 inch.
Since the adjuster did not fix the play, I see no reason to follow the Chilton's directions to adjust the box. I guess I am looking at a new steering box. Anybody got any idea on how hard it is to replace this and would I be better off going new or used?
. I went around a corner and the wheels did not come back to center. It took all I had to bring it back to center.Needles to say, I brought it back home. The box was tight but the wheel was still sloppy. I loosened the adjuster back up and it made the wheels turn easier but the play is still there.
Watching the shaft while someone else turns it, I see the whole shaft turn but I am seeing the clamp down by the rag joint move in and out. On closer inspection, it is the input shaft to the box that is moving in and out about 3/16 inch.
Since the adjuster did not fix the play, I see no reason to follow the Chilton's directions to adjust the box. I guess I am looking at a new steering box. Anybody got any idea on how hard it is to replace this and would I be better off going new or used?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Belle Mead NJ
You will be better off going new, as most used ones will prob have alot of miles and are already lose. They arnt to bad to change, just drop the pitman, take the steering shaft off, the pressure and return lines, and the bolts that hold it 2 the frame. Ebay has killer deals on reman boxes, when I get some money I will order one for my truck. Mine is lose and leaks out of the pitman arm seal.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Originally Posted by Animalistic
Well, from what I can tell, the steering shaft is working fine. The play I see is “in & out” from the box itself.
I talked to a friend of mine and he tells me that the shaft going into the box is actually a screw and the box is packed full of ball bearings. The adjuster screw actually lowers a plate to push those bearings back into the screw.
When the box is out of adjustment, the bearings are allowed to rise and force the shaft out.
I have to take his word on this as I have never opened a steering box but it does make sense.
So far, as long as the weather holds, I am on schedule to adjust it per the Chilton’s tomorrow. Wish me luck.
I talked to a friend of mine and he tells me that the shaft going into the box is actually a screw and the box is packed full of ball bearings. The adjuster screw actually lowers a plate to push those bearings back into the screw.
When the box is out of adjustment, the bearings are allowed to rise and force the shaft out.
I have to take his word on this as I have never opened a steering box but it does make sense.
So far, as long as the weather holds, I am on schedule to adjust it per the Chilton’s tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Well your freind has never had the sector shaft out of a steering gear box either then if he said that.
Posting Guru
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From: Belle Mead NJ
He is sorta right, There is a steering box that does have ball bearings in it. But not full of them. There a few style boxes. The one with the worm gear and bearings is kinda hard to explain. Then there is our style that has the 3 pronged peice. I remember learning about them in school but that was a few years ago and have since forgot. But he isnt completly wrong.
Last edited by 95F350XL; Jan 1, 2008 at 08:44 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Originally Posted by 95F350XL
He is sorta right, There is a steering box that does have ball bearings in it. But not fill of them. There a few style boxes. The one with the worm gear and bearings is kinda hard to explain. Then there is our style that has the 3 pronged peice. I remember learning about them in school but that was a few years ago and have since forgot. But he isnt completly wrong.
And no, I haven't had every type of box made apart either!
But I have had the style box discussed here apart several times, no its not packed full of ball bearings.