I am in need to run a high amp (25A) line for an air compressor.

Essentially, I need a circuit that goes from the +12V through the fuse, through a relay (controlled by a pressure switch), and then to the air compressor before going to ground.

I'd like to keep the job tidy, and thus would like to make use of the empty fuse slots in the fuse panel.

For example, I notice that slot #4, 9, 10, 12 (and others) are listed in the owners manual as 'not used'.

Is there any remote chance that any of these unused slots actually have wiring to them (better yet, capable of high current). If not, how does one get this fuse panel out and disassembled so that one can actually run some wires to the fuse panel? The fuse panel almost seems to have a computer inside (it's rather large), and incredibly difficult to take out.

If anyone has ran a new wires to the unused slots on the fuse panel, I'd really appreciate if you could share a few tips.

Thanks in advance.

 

Go to the circular trailer hitch 7 pin light connector. I don't remember which pin it is but there is an auxiliary output pin that I use to charge my dump trailer battery for runninng the trailer lift hydraulic pump. I believe it is good for 25 Amps. It should be called out in your owners manual. You will have to get a circular 7 pin connector with pigtails. You can probably find one at an RV dealer. Just connect the +12V auxiliary output and the ground to the compressor and I believe you will have what you need.

Here is a website for possible a 7 pin connector with pigtails

http://www.hitches-forless.com

Hope this helps!

DSMMH

 

Personally, I would run everything back to the battery for a compressor. My original setup was running off of an existing empty fuse and everytime the compressor kicked on to fill the tank back up the location with the fuse was boiling hot.

That is just my experience and opinion.

Bryan

 

The more I look at it, it appears the best idea will be to run a completely separate line from the battery -- getting into the existing fuse panel to wire it up seems just too cumbersome as it looks like I'd have to take half my drivers console apart, and I still need to be able to drive the X during the time frame that this project is under way. Besides that I tried disconnecting a couple wiring harnesses from the fuse panel and my Excursion just started going crazy -- lights blinking on and off. I figured I'd stop there before I actually did any damage to a computer or something.

So, as far as running a new line to the compressor from the battery, I figured I might as well do something 'semi-professional' and install another fuse panel (this will also allow me to have options for other high power accessories in the future). I'm planning to mount this new panel under the hood in that empty area on the drivers side, kind of near steering column, and near the other 'engine bay fuse panel'. Any thoughts on that placement?

As far as wiring goes, I assume I can run a nice thick cable from the solenoid/alternator boot (once I find the appropiate point to connect to -- any suggestions welcome). That should accomplish getting the unswitched high amp +12V source to my 'new' fuse panel. Ground is simple. How then should I bring the 'switched' +12V power? I assume I'd have to make use of a high amp relay, driven by my high amp +12V power, and controlled by some other low power switched +12V wire, any thoughts on that? If the theory is sound, anyone know where I can find a 'control wire' I can patch into in the vicinity of where I'm mounting that new fuse panel?

I'm rather new to automotive wiring, so, if there's anyone out there that has some advice that could save me time (and possibly headache, now and in the future), please, feel free to share some advice.

Thanks for the help

 

thehawk75, below is a schmatic that I used to wire my twin compressors, you can delete a compressor and accomplish the same thing. I hope this helps.

Bryan

 

^^ that looks like the way to do it. One thing I question though is the use of 8 ga wire to trigger the relays from the pressure switch. Isn't that WAY overkill? You aren't handling any load on those wires, just activating a switch so shouldn't 14 or 16 ga be more than enough?

 

True, I just like things to look balanced, I guess I an a little OCD!!

There is no doubt that a 16 gauge could be used, I just drew up what I actually had.

Thanks, Bryan