Which fuse slot for hardwiring a radar detector?
#1
Which fuse slot for hardwiring a radar detector?
I'm not interested in a "MirrorTap" or "InvisiCord" solution. I'd like to use an "Add-A-Fuse" and run power from a switched circuit (vs. an "always on" hot circuit) in the fuse panel (so the detector isn't on all the time).
Which fuse slot (in a 2011 F-150 SuperCrew in case it matters) are you all using? (#37 was mentioned once in the archives)
And are you using an empty (but wired with gold contacts) fuse slot, or piggy-backing on an existing fuse slot for an active accessory?
Also, did you use a standard full-size fuse or a mini-size fuse?
Which fuse slot (in a 2011 F-150 SuperCrew in case it matters) are you all using? (#37 was mentioned once in the archives)
And are you using an empty (but wired with gold contacts) fuse slot, or piggy-backing on an existing fuse slot for an active accessory?
Also, did you use a standard full-size fuse or a mini-size fuse?
#3
I used the trailer brake control to power the radar detector in my wife's 2011 Platinum. Used a standard sized "add a fused line" like that shown above and surprisingly it just pushed in where the mini fuse was. Been working for 9 months now.
The only caveat is the fuse cover no longer will fit over that add a fuse assy. I just put the cover up for safe keeping and put some bubble wrap in it's place. The pass side kick panel hides all that and to date has not proved a problem. Come trade in time I'll simply pull all the wiring out and replace the fuse and the cover (just like stock).
The only caveat is the fuse cover no longer will fit over that add a fuse assy. I just put the cover up for safe keeping and put some bubble wrap in it's place. The pass side kick panel hides all that and to date has not proved a problem. Come trade in time I'll simply pull all the wiring out and replace the fuse and the cover (just like stock).
#4
I'm not interested in a "MirrorTap" or "InvisiCord" solution. I'd like to use an "Add-A-Fuse" and run power from a switched circuit (vs. an "always on" hot circuit) in the fuse panel (so the detector isn't on all the time).
Which fuse slot (in a 2011 F-150 SuperCrew in case it matters) are you all using? (#37 was mentioned once in the archives)
And are you using an empty (but wired with gold contacts) fuse slot, or piggy-backing on an existing fuse slot for an active accessory?
Also, did you use a standard full-size fuse or a mini-size fuse?
Which fuse slot (in a 2011 F-150 SuperCrew in case it matters) are you all using? (#37 was mentioned once in the archives)
And are you using an empty (but wired with gold contacts) fuse slot, or piggy-backing on an existing fuse slot for an active accessory?
Also, did you use a standard full-size fuse or a mini-size fuse?
I used the trailer brake control to power the radar detector in my wife's 2011 Platinum. Used a standard sized "add a fused line" like that shown above and surprisingly it just pushed in where the mini fuse was. Been working for 9 months now.
The only caveat is the fuse cover no longer will fit over that add a fuse assy. I just put the cover up for safe keeping and put some bubble wrap in it's place. The pass side kick panel hides all that and to date has not proved a problem. Come trade in time I'll simply pull all the wiring out and replace the fuse and the cover (just like stock).
The only caveat is the fuse cover no longer will fit over that add a fuse assy. I just put the cover up for safe keeping and put some bubble wrap in it's place. The pass side kick panel hides all that and to date has not proved a problem. Come trade in time I'll simply pull all the wiring out and replace the fuse and the cover (just like stock).
I like amascio's idea too, here is what I did:
My XL is 2WD Therefore the wiring for the 4X4 mode select switch is available. The connector (C284) plugs into the back of the round coin holder, I appreciate Ford putting this connector where it is retrievable. As for the coin holder, it is gone as I put my manifold vacuum gauge there, fits perfect as if it is factory.
Pin #7 is hot (+ 12v) when the ignition is on, I believe it is fed from fuse F34. I tapped into to this for my LEDs that illuminate the floor area.
C2033 is the connector to the power point in the dash (you can reach it through the glove box hole, and unplug it so you can reach the wires). Pin #1 is hot (+ 12v) all the time, I wired my GPS and Radar detectors to this, it is from fuse F65, I ran the wires to the left and inside the drivers A pillar, the GPS sits at the bottom LH corner of the window, I hide the wire for the RADAR detector in the front part of the headliner and it drops down to the RARADAR detector just below the mirror...
this gets rid of wires all over the dash plugged into the cig lighter and power point...
cause the wifey alway has to charge her cell phone.....
in hind sight I might have been better off connecting the radar detector to the 4X4 connector just so it kills the radar detector with the key. The GPS has a battery that can stay charged with the always hot power.
I am sure there are other points you can tie to, I hate making a mess @ the fuse box, and tieing into an existing connenctor is simple.
Last edited by joendoodle; 01-13-2012 at 04:49 AM. Reason: spelling
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