Sorry to bring this up again, but I got a new horn pad and the three wires behind the horn pad and my cruise still doesn't work.
Short of the buttons making contact with the wires on the horn pad, what else could be not working?

What other parts do I need to add to make the cc work?

I drove down the highway to check it out and turned the cc on but saw no light or anything change once I hit the on button.

Any ideas,
Fletch

 

I don't think we have a cruise control light. I've never seen one on mine anyhow.

 

yea no CC light...Did your truck have CC from the factory?

 

No. No cc from the factory. But many have told me that all I had to do was to get a cc horn pad and plug it in and you're good.

 

more input needed.

 

Im not exactly sure but I thought that there was a CC module in the trucks equipped with cruise. I thought it was behind the glove box along with a couple others. Someone might know more thats just what i recall.
-----------Jeremy

 

Seems like I remember their being a jumper wire ya had to put in under the hood somewhere. I'll see if I can find any info.

 

Ford F-Series 92-96 Cruise Control Mod

Materials Required
1. Cruise control equipped horn pad. This can be purchased new at Ford or eBay, or used at a junk yard.
2. (2) small spade connectors
3. A short length of #10 wire
4. A short length of shrink tubing

Tools Required
1. Needle nosed pliers
2. Side or diagonal cutters
3. A heat source (cigarette lighter)
4. Crimping tool
5. Soldering iron and solder (optional)

Prerequisites
1. All brake lights must be operational including the third brake light.
2. The neutral safety switch must be operational (or start interlock switch for the manual tranny
folks) located on the clutch master cylinder shaft that penetrates the firewall))

Discussion
This is a simple “how to” write up and basic overview based on my experience. The goal is to add the cruise control function to a truck that didn’t come so equipped from the factory. This mod will not require the installer to modify the trucks electrical system. As with any mod, after installation, and on the initial test drive, please test vehicle in a remote area for your and others safety.

Procedure
1. With the ignition off, sitting in the driver’s seat with the steering wheel directly in front of you:
1.a. Find the seam of the horn pad, follow it down the steering column to its base.
1.b. Gently pull on the pad’s base directly towards you, this will not take a lot of effort.
1.c. Once the pad dislodges, carefully lift the pad tilting it to one side, exposing the connector.
1.d. Using needle nosed pliers, disconnect the small harness.
1.e. Once disconnected, the old horn pad can be set aside.
2. Installation is reverse of disassembly. On the back side of the horn pad you will see a pin, centerline. On the column, find the slot that the pin engages and:
2.a. With the small harness made up, slide the pad down, evenly, until the pad is flush with the
remaining steering wheel. Most likely the horn will sound by pushing on the pad.
3. Your almost done, move to the engine compartment and:
3.a. On the driver’s side, locate the Power Distribution Box.
3.b. Originating from the PDB is a two wire run w/ a connector. The connector will have a dummy plug installed. The two wires are black w/ a red tracer and brown w/ an orange tracer. The connector would, if equipped with factory cruise, connect to the brake master cylinder. This would be a redundant method of cutting off the cruise function if the primary function failed. Since your truck is not factory equipped with cruise, you master cylinder doesn’t have the switch, therefore the connector must be shorted. Do this by:
3.b.1. Remove the dummy plug
3.b.2. With a small, male spade connector, remove the crimping plastic insulator (this is because the insulators are too bulky to be placed side by side in a small connector)
3.b.3. Trim both sides of the spade equally using the side cutters. Test fit. Remember, two spades will be placed close together, trim accordingly.
3.b.4. Once satisfied with the fit of the spades in the connector, make up a short piece of #10 wire, crimp on the spades or solder if desired, and use the heat shrink in place of the plastic insulator removed in step 3.b.2.
3.b.5. Insert the shorting wire into the connector. It’s a good idea to drip some wax on the connections to weather proof. Liquid electrical tape would also surfice.

Alternate Method
There is another method to short the two wire connector.
1. Cut off the connector, leaving a generous pig tail for future splicing.
2. Simply strip and connect the two wires together using a but connector.

I don’t recommend this because if you ever replace the brake master cylinder, purchase a replacement M/C with one fitted for cruise control, purchase the switch that would install in the M/C, remove the shorting wire and connect to the new switch. One step closer to factory!

Testing
As recommended, test in a remote area. Once desired speed is met, engage cruise. Test by tapping clutch pedal, ensure C/C disengages. Reset speed and test again by tapping the brake pedal. Once more by pushing the OFF button on the horn pad.

 

I pulled this from the Other site from a great member that did the write up so I get no glory. But their is a jumper wire ya have to put in underhood.

 

Itfox,
thanks for the write up. I think I have found the wires except mine aren't that color.
They are however, the only dummy plug I can find coming out of the PDB.

My questions:
1. Can I mod this so that the brakes will deactivate the system?
2. Where are the cruise boxes and are they installed in all trucks?
3. What options do I have incase the cruise control won't disengage in an emergency?

I think my wire colors are purple w/ yellow tracer and black.
Everything else coming out of the PDB is connected to something else.

Thanks,
Fletch

 

Bump ity bump bump bump

 

Its a seconday backup switch to disable the cruise in the event of primary failure. The switch screws into the brake master cyl.
Thats the one they jump. Its a saftey feature.

Bill

 

Don't I want the safety back up feature?
Can I build in a brake cut off or is it too hard without getting the new master cylinder.

 

Easy way is to change the master.
It has a tapped hole for the brake pressure switch.
You would need both. (master and sw)

Primary is your brake light switch. Secondary is a pressure switch.
The secondary switch was the one on recall due to starting under hood fires.

Bill

 

You might be able to get creative with some lines and fittings and install a T at the MC to install your switch but unless you have access to lots of fittings and know which are flare fittings and which are not you will be best off just buying the master cylinder like Bill said.