1994 ranger cold
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
1994 ranger cold
I just bought a ranger from a guy and it has some issues. it si winter up here in canada and it doesn't really get very warm in the cab. 4.0l engine should get warmer, i would think. as i monitor my temp gauge it does get warm then suddenly goes down to the first line. it gets about 1/3 the way up before doing so. is it thermostat problems? I would like to cardboard the rad but there is no way to do that without taking apart my front paneling!
the other problem is my engine jumps as if to stall, the about 5 seconds later the check engine light comes on for about a minute or so then turns itself off and repeats every five min or so. the guy i bought it from said that it is caused by the MAPS sensor being disconnected and said he had disconnected it because it would make the engine idle very high. any word?
My fuel mileage is also HORRIBLE! i think it might have something to do with the check engine light though.... what do you guys think?
BTW: 1994 Ford Ranger XLT reg cab 4X4, 4.0l, 5spd, 3"body lift, 4" susp. lift, superwinch lockers
the other problem is my engine jumps as if to stall, the about 5 seconds later the check engine light comes on for about a minute or so then turns itself off and repeats every five min or so. the guy i bought it from said that it is caused by the MAPS sensor being disconnected and said he had disconnected it because it would make the engine idle very high. any word?
My fuel mileage is also HORRIBLE! i think it might have something to do with the check engine light though.... what do you guys think?
BTW: 1994 Ford Ranger XLT reg cab 4X4, 4.0l, 5spd, 3"body lift, 4" susp. lift, superwinch lockers
Last edited by mblatz; Dec 16, 2007 at 03:03 AM. Reason: didn't leave any specs
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get the codes scanned to find out why ck. eng. light is on and go from there. Your gauge problem is likely a bad thermostat, start the truck when cold and pinch the upper rad. hose while the truck is running, if you can feel coolant flowing through it when it's cold your thermostat is stuck open and needs replaced. Should not feel flow until engine is hot at operating temp
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From: Connecticut
Change the T-stat. You might consider flushing the cooling system and refilling with fresh stuff while you're at it.
4.0L Ranger's never had a MAP sensor, so I am assuming you are talking about the MAF (mass airflow) sensor.The MAF is probably the single most important sensor on the whole truck. So if it is disconnected you can expect lousy performance, at a minimum.
In any event, I agree you need to go to your local Autozone or Advanced Auto and get the codes pulled. The CEL is trying to tell you soimething.
4.0L Ranger's never had a MAP sensor, so I am assuming you are talking about the MAF (mass airflow) sensor.The MAF is probably the single most important sensor on the whole truck. So if it is disconnected you can expect lousy performance, at a minimum.
In any event, I agree you need to go to your local Autozone or Advanced Auto and get the codes pulled. The CEL is trying to tell you soimething.
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
Just checked up and it is definetly not the maf sensor. that is attached to the throttle body side....
The sensor is attached to the intake manifold opposite the throttle body side. (driver's side) is that it? that is what is disconnected.
The sensor is attached to the intake manifold opposite the throttle body side. (driver's side) is that it? that is what is disconnected.
Last edited by mblatz; Dec 16, 2007 at 08:00 PM.
Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by mblatz
The sensor is attached to the intake manifold opposite the throttle body side. (driver's side) is that it? that is what is disconnected.
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
Yes! that's the one! what is that for? if it malfunctions what affect does it have to the engine?
It is also unplugged. would that cause the jerking and the check engine light? it happens while running at any speed. jumps, waits 5 sec then engine light comes on, stays onfor about 30 sec then turns off, waits 5 min then does it again.
It is also unplugged. would that cause the jerking and the check engine light? it happens while running at any speed. jumps, waits 5 sec then engine light comes on, stays onfor about 30 sec then turns off, waits 5 min then does it again.
Last edited by mblatz; Dec 16, 2007 at 08:54 PM. Reason: more information
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Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
Everyting you wanted to know about the IAC: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rol-valve.html
I've never heard of a person unpugging an IAC in order to correct some other problem. That's not going to cut it. You need to find out what's really going on. What happens when you plug it in?
The unplugged IAC could be the cause of the CEL, but you should pull all the codes, in any event. It sounds likely there may be more than one code stored. You can pull them yourself:
http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
I've never heard of a person unpugging an IAC in order to correct some other problem. That's not going to cut it. You need to find out what's really going on. What happens when you plug it in?
The unplugged IAC could be the cause of the CEL, but you should pull all the codes, in any event. It sounds likely there may be more than one code stored. You can pull them yourself:
http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
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From: ut
I'm curious...should the truck run with the IAC disconnected? I've never tried it. I thought the IAC lived for providing combustion air at idle, since the throttle-body should be completely closed at that time. If it idles with the IAC disconnected, I would think the IAC is stuck open or the throttle body has carbon build-up, which holds the plate open. I'm not giving advice here...just trying to better understand how it works.
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From: Beaver, Pennsylvania
About your cold problem, my 94 was doing the same thing (heater blowing cool air ) but temp guage was up and down. I tried everything from thermostat to flush. nothing helped.
I then fount that the heater core was plugged so bad it would not flush out so I replaced it ( New $25. ) and easy to do. Now the guage is normal and I get roasted out of the cab.
So if when you replace the T-Stat it does the same thing check the heater core by seeing if both heater hoses are hot!
I then fount that the heater core was plugged so bad it would not flush out so I replaced it ( New $25. ) and easy to do. Now the guage is normal and I get roasted out of the cab.
So if when you replace the T-Stat it does the same thing check the heater core by seeing if both heater hoses are hot!
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Rags
About your cold problem, my 94 was doing the same thing (heater blowing cool air ) but temp guage was up and down. I tried everything from thermostat to flush. nothing helped.
I then fount that the heater core was plugged so bad it would not flush out so I replaced it ( New $25. ) and easy to do. Now the guage is normal and I get roasted out of the cab.
So if when you replace the T-Stat it does the same thing check the heater core by seeing if both heater hoses are hot!
I then fount that the heater core was plugged so bad it would not flush out so I replaced it ( New $25. ) and easy to do. Now the guage is normal and I get roasted out of the cab.
So if when you replace the T-Stat it does the same thing check the heater core by seeing if both heater hoses are hot!
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From: Beaver, Pennsylvania
replaced it twice, once at around 135K and again at 187K, Almost positive mine plugged because of poor cooling system maintenance.
Before intalling the second core I flushed the system twice, also pulled and replaced all hoses ( witch were full of crusty junk ).
I disasembled the old core and it too was full of the same. everything is clean and working fine now and i will flush and refill as recomended now.
$25 is what i paid for the core january of 07 from auto zone.
Before intalling the second core I flushed the system twice, also pulled and replaced all hoses ( witch were full of crusty junk ).
I disasembled the old core and it too was full of the same. everything is clean and working fine now and i will flush and refill as recomended now.
$25 is what i paid for the core january of 07 from auto zone.
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Rags
replaced it twice, once at around 135K and again at 187K, Almost positive mine plugged because of poor cooling system maintenance.
Before intalling the second core I flushed the system twice, also pulled and replaced all hoses ( witch were full of crusty junk ).
I disasembled the old core and it too was full of the same. everything is clean and working fine now and i will flush and refill as recomended now.
$25 is what i paid for the core january of 07 from auto zone.
Before intalling the second core I flushed the system twice, also pulled and replaced all hoses ( witch were full of crusty junk ).
I disasembled the old core and it too was full of the same. everything is clean and working fine now and i will flush and refill as recomended now.
$25 is what i paid for the core january of 07 from auto zone.
As well, just so you all know, i took off the IEC and cleaned it out and took off the throttle body and took some gunwash to it and now the truck runs well (no CEL) but is the idle supposed to be at around 1500 to 2000 at startup? my Fan sounds like it is going to blow up any minute until i hit the gas. BTW: how much is a new rad fan? mine is cracking....
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From: Beaver, Pennsylvania
At 1st start cold my fan is engaged until i start up the road, I was told this is normal as long as it disengages.
My fan has had ctacks at the bottom of the fins for 5 years now with no issues. I have never checked to see what they cost but it is probably not cheep.
As for the high rpm at cold start, mine also did that before I changed the heater core. After the change it went back to normal. The only thing I could figure was that there was no coolent at the temp sensor due to poor circulation because if the heater core is plugged you will never get all the air out of the system.
My fan has had ctacks at the bottom of the fins for 5 years now with no issues. I have never checked to see what they cost but it is probably not cheep.
As for the high rpm at cold start, mine also did that before I changed the heater core. After the change it went back to normal. The only thing I could figure was that there was no coolent at the temp sensor due to poor circulation because if the heater core is plugged you will never get all the air out of the system.
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
yeah, my CEL is back again doing it's thing again but no jumps when it happens now so it is improving. i'm waiting for my scanner to get here and will c what the problem is.
Rags: yeah my fan is cracked at the main center part there the fins connect to the hub.
Rags: yeah my fan is cracked at the main center part there the fins connect to the hub.