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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

1994 ranger cold

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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 09:23 AM
  #16  
Hank85713's Avatar
Hank85713
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Tucson USA
I run a disconnected IAC and np you should not have idle at 1500. Thats why I disconnected mine (tried to replace 2x same results) Went to a shop and we spent about 3 hrs going thru codes and wiring books and finally it came out that there is a broken wire in the IAC circuit someplace. No I do not get an CE light have been running it this way for 100K or so, I also have the cooling issue but I just put a paperbag down in front of the rad so I dont have to take the grill apart. Mine would be hot till I hit a cold place while driving and it would drop down. Thats with an old as well as a new Tstat. Yes flush and put in new to be safe, I dont know about the core plugging as the heater will drive you out, mainly run it at the blue-red area after it heats up. truck currently has 250K on it, did replace the radiator and the water pump at around 180K (slight rad leak). Also I had guage probs and had to replace the sender and then later had to tighten the clip on it but other than that no problems.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 10:38 PM
  #17  
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mblatz
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Hank85713
I run a disconnected IAC and np you should not have idle at 1500. Thats why I disconnected mine (tried to replace 2x same results) Went to a shop and we spent about 3 hrs going thru codes and wiring books and finally it came out that there is a broken wire in the IAC circuit someplace. No I do not get an CE light have been running it this way for 100K or so, I also have the cooling issue but I just put a paperbag down in front of the rad so I dont have to take the grill apart. Mine would be hot till I hit a cold place while driving and it would drop down. Thats with an old as well as a new Tstat. Yes flush and put in new to be safe, I dont know about the core plugging as the heater will drive you out, mainly run it at the blue-red area after it heats up. truck currently has 250K on it, did replace the radiator and the water pump at around 180K (slight rad leak). Also I had guage probs and had to replace the sender and then later had to tighten the clip on it but other than that no problems.
at idle cold my truck runs 2000 and down to 1500. i'm waiting on a code reader so i can find out what the hell is going on with my engine. damn computers!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 11:25 AM
  #18  
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Lead Head
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From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by Hank85713
I run a disconnected IAC and np you should not have idle at 1500. Thats why I disconnected mine (tried to replace 2x same results) Went to a shop and we spent about 3 hrs going thru codes and wiring books and finally it came out that there is a broken wire in the IAC circuit someplace. No I do not get an CE light have been running it this way for 100K or so, I also have the cooling issue but I just put a paperbag down in front of the rad so I dont have to take the grill apart. Mine would be hot till I hit a cold place while driving and it would drop down. Thats with an old as well as a new Tstat. Yes flush and put in new to be safe, I dont know about the core plugging as the heater will drive you out, mainly run it at the blue-red area after it heats up. truck currently has 250K on it, did replace the radiator and the water pump at around 180K (slight rad leak). Also I had guage probs and had to replace the sender and then later had to tighten the clip on it but other than that no problems.
On my ranger, when the IAC decides to work, if i unplug it, the engine dies.SoI don't know how your enigne stays running.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 11:54 AM
  #19  
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Hank85713
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Tucson USA
I ran the throttle screw in till it idles ar around 800-1000 rpm and it will drop to 750 or so with the ac on. just hold the throttle open a little to see if it stays runnin when you unplug, and if it does tun the screw in some.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #20  
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mblatz
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From: Lowe Farm, Manitoba
finally got reader

I finally got my code reader and so far i get codes 522, 565, and 157. i am a littel confused about 522 because i didn't have my truck in gear for any of the tests. would these codes give me the trouble with the engine? what would it do?
 
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