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OK guys I know it haw been a while but now that the holidays are coming up it means i get to stay home and work on the truck. So i bought some Long tube headers new cat and all that junk to put on the truck. My question is the manifold bolts are pretty rusted so besides spraying them down with Pb blaster for several days before i start is the any other tricks to help get them out I prefer not to brake the bolts off and have to drill them out. Thanks in advance Matt
Use ARP studs instead of bolts when you install the headers, I heard they make changing the gasket easy. They are pricey , but the price is worth every dollar you spend in the long run, what I plan on using when I do mine.
Good Luck
If you try to tighten them 1st a little to get them moving that usually works, I got mine off and they were so bad, there was no head on 1/2 the bolts and i used some easy out sockets to grip what ever was left. What brand did you get? My flowtechs hit my trans pan, i need to get a torch so i can heat the tubes and moved it away from the pan. How do you plan on doing your y pipe/ or true dual y?
I got headman headers nothing super special but they claim that they fit the truck as it sits hope that's the case. I am going to fab up the y pipe once i get the headers on so i can get accurate measurements. I am just going to run a single 2 1/2 in out everything i read says that will give the most torque. I have heard a lot of people say that i should put on a set of locking studs to keep the bolts from backing out but i am to cheap so i am going to just drill a hole in the mount bolt heads and lock wire them to eachother that way there is no way they can back off. I am also going to install the O2 sensor and erg valve I will take pics when it is all done and post them. Thanks for the info Matt
Ill take some pics of my truck how I have the Y pipe and the headers, maybe it will give you some ideas, My header bolts dont come loose I just used lock washers on ARP bolts.
Just a question on this subject. I was taking a look at my stock manifolds and it looks like the AIR tubes go into the top of them. Do headers have spots to put these in? or are they deleted. Like i said im just going by what i saw. Thanks
Just a question on this subject. I was taking a look at my stock manifolds and it looks like the AIR tubes go into the top of them. Do headers have spots to put these in? or are they deleted.
You can delete those lines.. they're totally redundant as the motor already has air injection at the back of the heads.
On my F350, it didnt have the air tubes in the back of the head, but I got rid of the manifold ones when I did my long tubes. Passed NJ inspection so you should be good.
Thanks for all the ideas guys I Hope it goes well with Pb blaster and heat but i know that it wont be that easy it never is its just my luck. Any pics people have from building there own y pipes would be greatly appreciated thanks again. Matt
Use ARP studs instead of bolts when you install the headers, I heard they make changing the gasket easy. They are pricey , but the price is worth every dollar you spend in the long run, what I plan on using when I do mine.
Good Luck
Mike
studs wont make gasket changing easier, it makes it harder. the gaskets have holes on either side of teh header port and a "hook" on the outside 2 holes allowing you to unbolt all teh head bolts but the 2 outside ones allowing you to leave the header in place and slide the gasket out.
a stud mount system will leave the gasket in place as it has studs going thru the gaskets.
You'll wanna see these pics then. I built this using 2 mentrel bent J bends, a 2 into 1 collector and a couple header flanges. I welded it all together with my Lincoln wire feed welder, it only took a weekend to complete. http://www.flickr.com/photos/motorstuff/sets/72157602458567072/
P.S. I moved the muffler up behind the cat as the locaton shown was too loud inside. It's much better that way and still sounds great outside.