When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have 2003 F 350 DRW, I replaced both batteries with new ones yesterday. Had plugged in over night due to it dropping down to -19 below. I have never had problems with it starting before, but now it just won't fire. I have read other posts about the hpop.If you guys could help I would appreciate it. If you could send pic's this would help also.
1st question: after installing new batteries, did you drive it around for a bit to allow the computer to reset?
2nd question: when cranking, does the tach move a little?
3rd question: have you tried cycling the glow plugs? ie. turn ignition on let stand for a minute, turn key off and then right back on for a minute then let it crank for 45 seconds to help build heat in cylinders.
Are you sure the batteries were fully charged when you put them in? Was the truck cranking fine yesterday, other than needing new batteries? A HPOP usually doesn't just take a dump overnight. Maybe check the voltage on the new batteries and hook a charger to them for a while.
Joe
Reply: 1. Yes I drove it for approx. 1/2 hr.
2. I just went and cranked it again, the Tach did not move.
3. Did this no luck.
4. How would I know if my block heater isn't working anymore, Is there a way to check this?
if its been pluged in all night..it should feel nice and warm where the heater is..the heater is just above the oil filter..it has an orange cord... your CPS may have failed..tack will not tell you so on a 2003 truck though.....
check to see if the #30 fuse is blown. I believe thats right. some will correct me I'm sure. anyway the fuel heaters will short out and blow this fuse. this fuse also powers the PCM. blown buse+no start. If its blown, unhook the wire connector coming into the back of the fuel filter. replace the fuse. now your tach signal will be back and it should start. Side note when changing the fuel heater there are two styles. When removing the black stand pipe inside the bowl, some are a snap fit,others are LEFTHAND thread. that little pipe is about 50 bucks so pay attention,be there done thaqt. good luck Barney
check to see if the #30 fuse is blown. I believe thats right. some will correct me I'm sure. anyway the fuel heaters will short out and blow this fuse. this fuse also powers the PCM. blown buse+no start. If its blown, unhook the wire connector coming into the back of the fuel filter. replace the fuse. now your tach signal will be back and it should start. Side note when changing the fuel heater there are two styles. When removing the black stand pipe inside the bowl, some are a snap fit,others are LEFTHAND thread. that little pipe is about 50 bucks so pay attention,be there done thaqt. good luck Barney
very possible too..good call...good info on the heater too..i did not know this..
I replaced the CPS approx. 5 months ago. I see on the directions when replacing to remove some fuse, I didn't do this! could this be one problem? Where is this #30 fuse located? and what size is it? Sorry for all the questions I can do this stuff I just need good directions. Can I charge the batteries with the cables on? If so will it charge both batteries at the same time.
Ron could you give me more direction on how to check the glow plug system or what I might need to do it with. Also I crawled under the truck and checked the block heater ( Dead) no heat what so ever. Where can I get one of these? Who has the best price or one on hand and how would I go about replacing it.
<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">I cant help you with the fuse..my 99 is diff then yours....Look on the valley side of each valve cover, and you'll see the valve cover harnesses that run underneath each cover. When you remove the plug, you'll see that each connector has 8 pins. The outer two pins on each side of the connector is for the glow plugs, the 4 middle are for the injectors:
UVC Harness connector
G - glow plug
I - Injector
|G|G|I|I|I|I|G|G|
Take a multimeter and OHM out each pin for the glow plugs. The black lead of your multimeter should be connected to a good ground, and probe the red lead into each of the glow plug pins. Good glow plugs read between .8 to 1.5 OHM's. Marginal glow plugs will be slightly higher than 1.5, but it you're reading much higher than that or to infinity then they need to be replaced.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Last edited by ron's power stoke; Dec 15, 2007 at 08:43 AM.
<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top When you remove the plug, you'll see that each connector has 8 pins. The outer two pins on each side of the connector is for the glow plugs, the 4 middle are for the injectors:
UVC Harness connector
G - glow plug
I - Injector
|G|G|I|I|I|I|G|G|
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
---------------------------------------------------------------
Actually there is 9 pins.. the center one is injector ground.. and the code is:
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Last edited by clintbonnie; Dec 15, 2007 at 06:34 PM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.