I have a 1998 Mazda B4000 4WD. Yesterday, I had to pickup my camper from having some repair work done to it. There was a layer of ice and snow around the camper. I had to put the truck into 4WD in order to get backed up to it.

Once I got hooked up and pulled into the parking lot where it was dry, I switched off the 4WD. Normally I can feel when it switchs back and forth, but this time I didn't, but I didn't really think much of it. I figured with the added weight of the camper, it was just an extra smooth transfer.

I have about a five or six mile interstate drive to my storage unit. During the drive, the 4WH & 4WL lights on the dash board started to flash on and off. This gave me some concern. When I finally got to a spot where I could safely stop, I tried to switch between 4 high, and 4 low and 2WD. Nothing. I could switch all day long, and nothing would happen.

I parked the truck for an hour or so, decided to try it again, and this time 4 high would engage and disengage. Any idea's what could be the problem? Could it be my automatic locking hubs? I did have to replace one last year. I don't remember the reason, but after I bought it, and put it on, I realized that I probably could have saved my self $120 and just replaced the O-Ring. Anything else that I should be looking at?

Thank you.

Daryl Rose

 

Check the transfer case motor connections for corrition, i remember there being several posts on the topic. Try searching the forums, it may be of more help

 

I did just have the transfer case oil changed. Perhaps they bumped the connection or something. I'll have to check that out tonight.

Thanks.

Daryl

 

It's not the vacuum hubs, per se. But it might be an intermittent problem in the PVH solenoid electrical circuit, although that's not common. More often, when the 4WD lights are blinking, that means something in the transfer case circuit(s) is out-of-whack. It could be moisture or something affecting the electrical connections, or even the TC motor itself acting up, which isn't all that uncommon.

 

Well, I've checked the wire connection to the transfer motor. A very solid connection and the wires themselves look to be in good order. The motor however looks a bit rough. It is very rusty and I'm wondering if this could be the issue. Is there a way to test the motor to see if it has a problem? Is replacing the motor difficult, or expensive? Or, should I be checking other connections else where in the truck. Perhaps the switch on the dash panel?

Thanks.

Daryl

 

It would be worthwhile to check all the fuses related to the 4WD system (#s 9, 10, 26, and 27 in the interior cab fuse box, and also fuse # 3 located in the power distribution box under the hood).

The following threads are also relevant to your problem:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ew-update.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-flashing.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-blinking.html

 

Thanks Rockledge, lots of good info here.

When I first posted this issue, I was fearing the worst. Now, I'm hoping for something simple like a fuse or relay. Even if it comes down to a bad TC motor, I should be able to replace that reativly easy.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the help.

Daryl

 

You should engage the electric shift motor at least once a month in both ranges to keep it from sticking and getting gummed up. Even if you just move back and fourth in the driveway. The motor more than likely needs to be cleaned instead of replaced. Engage that t-case in the summer as well as winter eeeeeif you need it or not.

 

Well, now I've done it.

In other post, similar to mine, I found a link that showed me how to rebuild the T-case motor. I felt that this would be a good option, or at least an option to look into. I've been having other problems, not just the flashing dash lights as I originally posted. I did as Wendell Borror suggested, and engaged, disengaged the 4H & 4L. When I did so, I could tell that the truck was not engaging into 4H, rather 4L. And then it would not disengage right way. I had to drive in reverse in order for it to disengage.

This is the other post that I was referring to:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...4-problem.html

and this is the link that I followed from that post to learn how to rebuild my T-case motor:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123542

Anyway, I thought that it was worth the trouble to see if the bushing that is referred to is bad, and to see if it needed to be replaced. I removed the motor and looked at the bushing. Mine still looked new. No ware to speak of so I decided to replace the motor. No since going through a bunch more work and tearing apart the reset of the motor if there isn't anything wrong with it.

During my struggles to replace the motor, I broke off the large gear from the gear housing cover. Its a little hard for me to describe, but the gear housing cover is plastic with about six wires going into it. The gear itself was attached to that plastic cover by a composite material of some kind. The gear snapped off right at the composite material.

Now for my questions.
1. Is it possible to replace only this cover and gear?
2. Can I buy just those items, or do I need to buy the entire motor?
3. If I do need to buy the motor, does anyone know the part number that I would need, or an online dealer that I can buy a rebuilt?
4. Also, Can I drive the truck with this part broken? I would think that it should be drivable in 2WD.

If someone can give me some feed back, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you.

Daryl Rose

 

You can pick up a remanned TC motor from Napa (part # TCM 48202).

 

Summit has the TC motor for a good price as well as Partsamerica.com,Rockauto.com just a few suggestions.I had similar problems with my Ranger 4.0

 

Thanks guy's that helps out tremendously.

Daryl Rose

 

I was able to find a rebuilt TCase motor locally at my local Oreilly Auto parts store. Only $72. I was very happy until I tried to install it.

I knew that the brown wire that connects a sensor onto the Tcase would be an issue. I figured that I could get the pin out of the wiring connector, and insert it into the new connector of the new motor. Wrong. I fought with this stupid connector and pin for several hours before I was able to get it extracted. I ruined my pin extractor in the process. Then, I tired to plug it into the new connector, and promptly broke the pin.

This is the female end, and it has a very thin wire body between the female piece, and the end that is crimped onto the wire. I must not have inserted it straight, because it broke right off. I was not happy.

I went down to Radio Shack to see if I could get something to replace it with. They didn't have anything the same size, so I thought that I would replace both the male and female ends with a single connector kit that I bought there.

Again I was wrong. I was having just as much difficulties getting those ends onto the wires and inserting them into the new connectors as I was having with the originals. I finally gave up, snipped both ends, and soldered them together and with a little heat shrink tape, good as new.

I just got back from a little test drive. All seems to be working just fine. I shifted through all three ranges, and all three ranges seem to work fine, but I am still concerned. I'll have to keep an eye on things for a while just to make sure that all in fact is good and the truck wont crash and burn on me while I'm driving down the road some where.

Thanks for all of the help.

Daryl Rose