I was just wanting to know if anyone has installed clifford headers with the single outlet on there I6. If so did they fit good, were they easy to put on. Thanks

 

I haven't heard of anyone installing a single outlet header but the dual outlet headers do good. Installed a set of dual outlet headers on my truck and its doing really good on power.
1994 Ford F150
300-6
Highly Modified and more to come!

 

I'm thinking of going single headers just to make putting in a single exhaust simpler... thinking of a 3" flowmaster 40... Or should i go dual headers? and if so, how difficult would it be to run both outlets into the single exhaust, and how much advantage would the dual have over single?

I've got price quotes coming from NAPA on clifford water-heated intake, factory rebuilt holley 4bbl 390cfm, clifford single headers, and a couple other bits and pieces... Fun time...

Der Meister
'82 F-150 2wd, 300-I6, np435...

 

I just ordered the headers the other day. I'm thinking of going with the Flowmaster 40 series muffler to go with it. I'll let you know how it goes once I get them installed.

 

Right on... Methinks i'm gonna do the ignition first, then the intake manifold and carb, and exhaust system after. So there'll be plenty of time for me to grill ya for results... MUAHAHA! Ok, i'll be nice about it...

-Der Meister-

 

I've got a five-year-old set of Clifford "Street Rod" headers, Jet-Hot coated, beautiful, new in box (never installed).

Dual-Outlet shorties w/smog hookup ports, gasket, and reducers to 2.25" size, which just happens to be the same size as the headpipes going down into the stock '87-up catalytic convertor,i.e., easy hookup job.

$200.00 because of the not-cheap coating, e-mail me if interested.

Eddie

 

684rd...I got a set and they have their ups and downs. The one major prob for mine was leaks. THEY LEAKED EVERYWHERE!! SO to remedy this i had all the collectors welded together. Solid from the engine to the tail pipe. It makes removing them harder but keeps them from leaking. The other place was at the engine (as any normal header will). What i would suggest is have your head (if you are going to take it off) plained flat where the intake and exhaust mounts. Then have the intake and Headers checked as well. I had to make brass washers that were grooved for the first 3 header bolts to make the intake and header mount flush. Also when you put them on use a little RED rtv sealant. Or even the copper stuff. Something with a temp rating of over 1000 degrees (just to cover your butt). I am going to next time i put them back on. ALSO one thing that really bit my butt was the way they were made. They put the bends in the pipes so as to cover bottom bolts up so you can’t get a torque wrench into to torque bolts. The only thing you can use it a boxed end...and even that is tight. SO you really cant get a good grunt onto the front bottom bolts...producing leakes. That was mine but they might have done better with newer designs. might ask them about that. But on the up side, they sound great and not going to say they really made a differance cuz i did the whole thing at once; 4 bbl carb, intake, milled head, and 270 cam. SO to say that the headers maked a huge differance wouldnt be fair...but i can say that the whole system did make a differance! AND in the MPG too!!!! but its worth it. Hoped i helped.


Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald

Rather be pushing a Ford than driving a Chevy.

Like A Rock......In Water!

 

Well I finally got the headers on about a week ago, they were very easy to put on no problems with clerences anywhere. Had a muffler shop put in an exhaust system from the header to the tailpipe they put a turbo muffler on. All I can say is that it runs good and sounds good. It was worth the money.