block heater ?
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block heater ?
How can I tell if the block heater is working?
It is getting down in the teens and after having it plugged in all night I have to cycle the gp's at least twice if not three times to get it started. When I say cycle i mean for at least 60 sec's each.
Any thoughts?
It is getting down in the teens and after having it plugged in all night I have to cycle the gp's at least twice if not three times to get it started. When I say cycle i mean for at least 60 sec's each.
Any thoughts?
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
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Originally Posted by going360
How can I tell if the block heater is working?
It is getting down in the teens and after having it plugged in all night I have to cycle the gp's at least twice if not three times to get it started. When I say cycle i mean for at least 60 sec's each.
Any thoughts?
It is getting down in the teens and after having it plugged in all night I have to cycle the gp's at least twice if not three times to get it started. When I say cycle i mean for at least 60 sec's each.
Any thoughts?
( well ,at least the ones in the garage)You should be able feel it getting warm, just by touching it, some say they can hear the water "gurgling " in the block...
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
you can use an ohm meter to test the heater as well. It should have continuty and a few ohms if its working. if you get a high ohm reading or OL (out of limits) then either the cord or the heater is bad. Also make sure the outlet you plug it into is working. I might or might not have had that problem this week!
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
It's down to mid 20's here and with block heater plugged in WTS light comes on for about 2 seconds and fires right up. Without block heater WTS light comes on for about 15 seconds and truck fires right up.
Now for the twenty four thousand dollar question. What does the block heater heat? Some say the oil, some say the water or does it just heat the metal block?
Now for the twenty four thousand dollar question. What does the block heater heat? Some say the oil, some say the water or does it just heat the metal block?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
Hey 360, did you find the problem? Just plug in a power tool or spouse hair dryer to extension cord to see if you have power. Also I found a really nice timer at ACE Hardware for $13.95 which handles 1200 watts and is grounded. Perfect for these trucks and have mine come On at 03:00 and Off 06:00 as I leave for work a bit after 6AM. I've tried it for all night but the 3 hour rule seems to apply.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
Went and checked the block heater with multimeter this evening and it was at 15.9 ohm's. So anything between 10 to 20 ohm's is probably OK. If working properly that means you will be drawing about 7.5 AMPs of power. That is a lot of current so make sure you have a good extension cord.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: CentralEastern Utah
Originally Posted by going360
How can I tell if the block heater is working?
It is getting down in the teens and after having it plugged in all night I have to cycle the gp's at least twice if not three times to get it started. When I say cycle i mean for at least 60 sec's each.
Any thoughts?
It is getting down in the teens and after having it plugged in all night I have to cycle the gp's at least twice if not three times to get it started. When I say cycle i mean for at least 60 sec's each.
Any thoughts?
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Originally Posted by ltfox
I'm sure you a have a bad gp or two. Why don't ya fix them, then maybe ya wont have to worry about plugging in. If all gp's work properly you should start easy in those temps.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Kearney, Nebr
You still shouldn't have to cycle the glow plugs twice if you've plugged it in all night.
I'd check your GPR first. It's the starter looking solenoid by the fuel filter. Take a big screw driver and jump the two posts for 60 sec and then try to start it. If it starts right up thats your problem.
P.S. I can only hear mine "gurgle" in the morning after its been plugged in all night.
I'd check your GPR first. It's the starter looking solenoid by the fuel filter. Take a big screw driver and jump the two posts for 60 sec and then try to start it. If it starts right up thats your problem.
P.S. I can only hear mine "gurgle" in the morning after its been plugged in all night.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Rogue River, OR
Originally Posted by going360
I was wondering about that as well... So, how do I figure out wich ones are bad?
Each plug has five (5) pins, 1-2-3-4-5 One and Five are connected to your glow plugs. With a digital ohm meter, ground the black lead (to the battery if possible) and then the red lead to pins #1 & #5.
If you get a reading of "OL" (Open Line) that GP is dead. You are idealy looking for a reading of ".05" or less.
You can also check the center Pin #3 as it is the ground pin that is shared by both GP's on each plug. Check both the male and female plugs for burn damage, broken or bent pins and/or sockets.
Hope this helps and if I have given you any bad advice trust me when I say the Guru's will come forth and beat the crap out of me. lol
Rog
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
Just a heads up, The center pin of the VC connector is the common (-) for the injectors and will give you a higher OHM reading because it's going through the IDM circitry. Use a good, clean engine block surface or battery ground. FYI: The GP's body is grounded when it get screwed into the cylinder head.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Rogue River, OR
Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Just a heads up, The center pin of the VC connector is the common (-) for the injectors and will give you a higher OHM reading because it's going through the IDM circitry. Use a good, clean engine block surface or battery ground. FYI: The GP's body is grounded when it get screwed into the cylinder head.
Rog