Clutch problems!
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Clutch problems!
Can anyone tell me if you can change the clutch on the compressor without taking it out of the truck. I have been having a rattleing noise coming from the compressor every time it engages, but now it is all the time so I think it is time for a new clutch. If anyone can tell me different let me know.Thanks!
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I have a 2000 f150 4.6L. I heard you can turn the key in the run position and that will lock it up to get the bolt off, if that is what you use the snap ring pliers for. If not can you tell me what they are used for. Thanks!
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From: Sooke, B.C.
Removing the bolt will make it so you can remove the outer plate. This will then open it up so you have access to the bearing for the pulley. The snap ring holds the bearing in place. It is will also be visable and accessed when the bolt and outer plate are removed. After removing the snap ring the pully and bearing slide off and all that should be left is the coil pack. Obviously you need to remove your serpentine belt before removing the pully. On mine i wasn't able to remove the coil pack so I didn't change it. Reinstallation is the opposite of removal. Just remenber to check pulley spins freely at all stages of reassembly.
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Originally Posted by Canadian98f1504x4
Removing the bolt will make it so you can remove the outer plate. This will then open it up so you have access to the bearing for the pulley. The snap ring holds the bearing in place. It is will also be visable and accessed when the bolt and outer plate are removed. After removing the snap ring the pully and bearing slide off and all that should be left is the coil pack. Obviously you need to remove your serpentine belt before removing the pully. On mine i wasn't able to remove the coil pack so I didn't change it. Reinstallation is the opposite of removal. Just remenber to check pulley spins freely at all stages of reassembly.
Thanks for your help! I took the bolt off, then the outer plate, then the snap ring, but now the pulley won't come off. It seems like its very loose, like it want's to come off but something is catching it. It also seems like the bearings are not attached to the pully, I don't know if they are suppose to be but it looks like on the new one, they are. Thanks again for you help!
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From: Sooke, B.C.
you are looking at the inner and outer race of the bearing. Both have to come off. It will probably take some prying but the Inner (small) is a interferance fit and was held in place by the snapring. If you are replaceing the pulley unit it is then just slide the unit on. If replaceing just the bearing you will need to get the outer race out of the pulley too. Note it is easier and better to replace the pulley. Count the grooves on both pulleys to make sure they are the same. You will also have to shim the outter plate. I think the clearance on mine was betweem 18 and 30 thousands. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Canadian98f1504x4
you are looking at the inner and outer race of the bearing. Both have to come off. It will probably take some prying but the Inner (small) is a interferance fit and was held in place by the snapring. If you are replaceing the pulley unit it is then just slide the unit on. If replaceing just the bearing you will need to get the outer race out of the pulley too. Note it is easier and better to replace the pulley. Count the grooves on both pulleys to make sure they are the same. You will also have to shim the outter plate. I think the clearance on mine was betweem 18 and 30 thousands. Good luck.
I got the pulley off, now I can't get the new one on. I know sometimes you can use a clutch pulley installer, but I was wondering if there anything alse I can use. Thanks again for your help!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
Originally Posted by jonezb
I got the pulley off, now I can't get the new one on. I know sometimes you can use a clutch pulley installer, but I was wondering if there anything alse I can use. Thanks again for your help!
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Originally Posted by lsrx101
Don't try to force it on!! It should slide right on with hand pressure. Clean the compressor snout well, make sure there are no burrs and use a bit of lube. You may have nicked it removing the old pulley, look close at the snap ring groove. The snout should be very smooth. If it is grooved or rough, the old bearing spun and the compressor will need to be replaced.
Thanks for your reply! I tried alittle lube and it slid on nice. Now I'v put the clutch plate on and tighten it, checked my gap's, and everything looks good but I have a question, is the clutch plate supposed to be alittle tough to turn after I tighten it. Thanks again for your help!
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
Originally Posted by jonezb
Thanks for your reply! I tried alittle lube and it slid on nice. Now I'v put the clutch plate on and tighten it, checked my gap's, and everything looks good but I have a question, is the clutch plate supposed to be alittle tough to turn after I tighten it. Thanks again for your help!
Check the gap between the clutch plate and the pulley. If it is less than .025", it's ok.
Use a typical business card in the gap. If it "flops" around, the gap is too loose. If it's tight the gap is ok. If you have to "wiggle it in" the gap is too narrow. The clutch gap isn't critical, but it needs to be less than .030 to engage and wide enough so the parts don't rub.
If the gap is ok, you should be good to go.
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Originally Posted by lsrx101
Yes. You should be able to turn it by hand with "some" resistance. It's hard to turn the clutch without pushing it into the pulley though.
Check the gap between the clutch plate and the pulley. If it is less than .025", it's ok.
Use a typical business card in the gap. If it "flops" around, the gap is too loose. If it's tight the gap is ok. If you have to "wiggle it in" the gap is too narrow. The clutch gap isn't critical, but it needs to be less than .030 to engage and wide enough so the parts don't rub.
If the gap is ok, you should be good to go.
Check the gap between the clutch plate and the pulley. If it is less than .025", it's ok.
Use a typical business card in the gap. If it "flops" around, the gap is too loose. If it's tight the gap is ok. If you have to "wiggle it in" the gap is too narrow. The clutch gap isn't critical, but it needs to be less than .030 to engage and wide enough so the parts don't rub.
If the gap is ok, you should be good to go.
Well I think i'm good to go, I used a feeler gauge to check the gap that read .55mm, I worked that out to be .021", so that should be good. Anyways I started it up and everything sounds fine, its running great. I would have never been able to do it without the help from guys like you on this site, Thanks again!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
Originally Posted by jonezb
Well I think i'm good to go, I used a feeler gauge to check the gap that read .55mm, I worked that out to be .021", so that should be good. Anyways I started it up and everything sounds fine, its running great. I would have never been able to do it without the help from guys like you on this site, Thanks again!
Good Job!
good work and congrats
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