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I thought about a lot of ideas before hacking the crossmsmber off.
The problem with trying to weld the pan is most of the time it rots in an area you can't get to with the welder.The weld would have to be perfect as well.
Cutting the K member was not difficult to do and I did it on the ground without a lift as my F550 is too heavy for my lift.
It really was not that bad to do,and I have done two more since then on customers trucks in the same fashon with 100% results.Good luck.
The patch stuff won't last long.When mine rotted through,I drained the pan,cleaned the rotted area,and used the same tank patch kit.It is only an epoxy resin based compound and will not take the heat and vibration for very long.Mine started leaking again in less than 1 month.But,it did give me a chance to get a new pan and set up time to do the job.
I patched mine in 2004, then painted the pan with POR-15. I haven't had to touch it since.
I used the patch that is for metal tanks, not plastic. Yes it is simply an epoxy patch with a section of fiberglass for strength. If yours failed that soon then you didn't prep the surface properly.
What does this consist of? What did you have to do? Was yours already leaking?
Yes, it was leaking out of a pinhole right in front of the oil drain plug. I had to drain the pan.
They have two different offerings BK 7651544 and BK7651546.
The BK 7651544 is for patching plastic fuel tanks.
The BK 7651546 is for patching metal tanks.
Ask for 2 of part number BK 7651546. Absolutely, completely degrease the surface of the area to be patched. It won't stick to oil! Buy a whole case of brake clean if you have to. Use a fan for ventilation, even if you are outside, that's a LOT of fumes to try and not breath. And the breeze will help the solvent evaporate completely.
Fordguy I share your skepticizm with patches, but there is no way that I am going to cut my crossmember to get the pan out.
I'll pull my engine before that happens.
Yes, it was leaking out of a pinhole right in front of the oil drain plug. I had to drain the pan.
They have two different offerings BK 7651544 and BK7651546.
The BK 7651544 is for patching plastic fuel tanks.
The BK 7651546 is for patching metal tanks.
Ask for 2 of part number BK 7651546. Absolutely, completely degrease the surface of the area to be patched. It won't stick to oil! Buy a whole case of brake clean if you have to. Use a fan for ventilation, even if you are outside, that's a LOT of fumes to try and not breath. And the breeze will help the solvent evaporate completely.
Don't be surprised if you scrape the rot spots off and it starts to leak.That's what mine did.
That's the beauty of Rust Bullet, you don't need to eliminate the rust, just scrap off the flaky bits. I'm getting it done next monday so I'll keep everybody updated to how its holding up over time. Should be a good test too, I live in the worst environment for rust you can imagine.
1999 and 94k and the pan is ready for replacement. I have been using that quick set fuel tank putty to stop the leak and then plaster it with j&b weld. No this is not a permenant fix. Just has to get me enough time to replace it.
If I do the pan....What else should I do while i'm in there? Oil Pump? Anything else?
Thanks.
Well I just ordered a can so all I have to hope for is that I don't break through when cleaning. I will just do a minimal clean up and apply Rust Bullet heavy. Hope it works.
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