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Thanks for all of the replies. The dealer phoned today to tell me that both heads need to be replaced (under warranty). They dont lift the cab to do the repair, so they want 5 hours labor to do the job. The whole thing will cost appx 1150.00, but I hear its money well spent.
tomfrey, Ford Service Departments lift the cab for this type of repair as standard operating procedure.
Have you spoken face-to-face with the Certified 6.0 Technician at the dealer and asked about this? Don't ask the Service Writer, you've got to speak directly with the Technician regarding this. I would be very surprised if they pull the motor out the front of the truck instead of lifting the cab. They just do not leave the engine in the frame for head and gasket replacement.
It was the service writer who told me this. He said that the they dont remove the cab due to squeeks and rattles down the road, and something about blind nuts that sometines break off. He said that the stock heads come off with the motor in place but that they could not get the new studs in place. As you can tell, I dont know much about the process. The dealer agreed to do the stud work, and told me where to get a set for 680 bucks- I got a set for 420 delivered !
It was the service writer who told me this. He said that the they dont remove the cab due to squeeks and rattles down the road, and something about blind nuts that sometines break off. He said that the stock heads come off with the motor in place but that they could not get the new studs in place. As you can tell, I dont know much about the process. The dealer agreed to do the stud work, and told me where to get a set for 680 bucks- I got a set for 420 delivered !Tom
It sounds like the dealer is being honest with you. The factory head bolts & gaskets can be changed with engine in the truck and cab in place, it is a pita IMO but some prefer to do it this way. However headstuds cannot without great difficulty be properly installed without lifting the cab or pulling the engine. Either way works just fine, it is the techs choice as to which way it is done.
Also you said in your previous post they are replacing the heads which is fairly common as well, if the heads are warped very much they cannot be machined flat and must be discarded and replaced.
So go for the ARP studs, new gaskets & new heads and you should be good to go for a very long time.
so after you get new heads, gaskets, and studs do you have to worry about "breaking in" your engine because of the new part?
I didn't, but my heads were still able to be machined. It was close particularly with the passenger side, but after I got it done I just went along business as usual. Rather or not that was correct I don't know, but that's what I did.
ok just to check here.......it is possible to to a headjob and headbolts without removing the engine, just a PITA......? However, u are going with the studs soooo how r they gona get the studs installed if the engine isnt "exposed" in one way shape for form?....
Just wonderin, as being a self professed half assed mechanic, if i can put studs in without removing the cab or engine.....itll be done as a christmas present haha.
so after you get new heads, gaskets, and studs do you have to worry about "breaking in" your engine because of the new part?
No you don't, when you are breaking in and engine, you are trying to allow the bearing surfaces to properly mate, gears to mesh and break-in the piston rings. There is nothing to break-in on the head gaskets and heads.
ok just to check here.......it is possible to to a headjob and headbolts without removing the engine, just a PITA......? However, u are going with the studs soooo how r they gona get the studs installed if the engine isnt "exposed" in one way shape for form?....
Just wonderin, as being a self professed half assed mechanic, if i can put studs in without removing the cab or engine.....itll be done as a christmas present haha.
With the OP truck the dealer will pull the engine to install the studs. It is really not a good idea to try and install studs without either lifting the cab or pulling the motor. With the engine in the truck you must remove all the components from the firewall to have enough room also the torque setting for studs is much higher than the torque to yield bolts so torquing them properly with the engine in the truck is damn near impossible. If you don't have access to a two post lift, just pull the engine out the front of the truck.
Definitely have them put ARP headstuds in!!!
My 05 had a cracked egr cooler and leaking headgaskets from towing my 26' toyhauler trailer.
My dealer only charged me $100 extra for installing studs (which I bought) and my dealer doesn't lift the cab either, They pull the engine.