Brighter Headlight options..
Xenon, which ignites easier and faster than other HID gases, acts as a starter. It accelerates HID lights' start-up process, making it suitable where waiting a few minutes for lighting is impractical. High-intensity-discharge (HID) headlights would take a few minutes to get bright if xenon were not added to the gas inside the bulbs. With xenon involved, HID lights are on after 1 second, and are fully bright in a few seconds. Xenon is responsible for the bright flash as the headlights are turned on, and it's xenon that glows brightly temporarily until the harder to ignite gases are fully going.
Halogen to xenon conversions can be installed into almost any car that uses a headlight design where the bulb can be replaced independently of the headlight assembly. Although beam pattern correct conversions are easier to do on headlights that use a bulb that has a axial filament i.e., the filament is parallel to the length of the bulb, rather than the width. (The H13s which are found in 2006 F250s have a axial filament.) The physical dimensions of the bulb also need to be similar to the physical dimensions of the replacement xenon light source.
If designed and manufactured correctly a halogen to xenon conversion will have a corrected beam pattern that is very usable and produces no added glare and will not be dangerous. Although a beam correct conversion could be done on a 9007, 9004, H4, or 9003 it would probably require a some custom work to the headlight housing. This custom work can be a real chalange fore-aft, lateral, and angular positioning have a very profound impact on the beam pattern.
Not all halogen to xenon conversions are created equal. There are several things to look out for. Is the conversion beam pattern correct? Is the conversion tested to ensure beam pattern correctness? If not can it be easily fixed? Is it reversible if a correct beam can not be achieved?
There are way too many companies out there that make a “will fit xenon conversion“ with profit being the only consideration. These companies have given all xenon lights a bad name and have even pushed some states into considering outlawing all HID lights. NHTSA has received thousands of complaints with regards to the glare from HID/xenon headlights and is attempting to stop the import of these inferior products.
Xenon, which ignites easier and faster than other HID gases, acts as a starter. It accelerates HID lights' start-up process, making it suitable where waiting a few minutes for lighting is impractical. High-intensity-discharge (HID) headlights would take a few minutes to get bright if xenon were not added to the gas inside the bulbs. With xenon involved, HID lights are on after 1 second, and are fully bright in a few seconds. Xenon is responsible for the bright flash as the headlights are turned on, and it's xenon that glows brightly temporarily until the harder to ignite gases are fully going.
Halogen to xenon conversions can be installed into almost any car that uses a headlight design where the bulb can be replaced independently of the headlight assembly. Although beam pattern correct conversions are easier to do on headlights that use a bulb that has a axial filament i.e., the filament is parallel to the length of the bulb, rather than the width. (The H13s which are found in 2006 F250s have a axial filament.) The physical dimensions of the bulb also need to be similar to the physical dimensions of the replacement xenon light source.
If designed and manufactured correctly a halogen to xenon conversion will have a corrected beam pattern that is very usable and produces no added glare and will not be dangerous. Although a beam correct conversion could be done on a 9007, 9004, H4, or 9003 it would probably require a some custom work to the headlight housing. This custom work can be a real chalange fore-aft, lateral, and angular positioning have a very profound impact on the beam pattern.
Not all halogen to xenon conversions are created equal. There are several things to look out for. Is the conversion beam pattern correct? Is the conversion tested to ensure beam pattern correctness? If not can it be easily fixed? Is it reversible if a correct beam can not be achieved?
There are way too many companies out there that make a “will fit xenon conversion“ with profit being the only consideration. These companies have given all xenon lights a bad name and have even pushed some states into considering outlawing all HID lights. NHTSA has received thousands of complaints with regards to the glare from HID/xenon headlights and is attempting to stop the import of these inferior products.
I have a couple questions about the ones you run...
I have some friends who tried some cheap ones on ebay (not from the place you mentioned) and had horrible radio interference. Did you notice any increased static once you installed yours?
Do you run the standard ballast or the slim ballasts?
And also, what made your decision to go with the quad ballast vs the motorized capsule/shield?
I have some friends who tried some cheap ones on ebay (not from the place you mentioned) and had horrible radio interference. Did you notice any increased static once you installed yours?
Do you run the standard ballast or the slim ballasts?
And also, what made your decision to go with the quad ballast vs the motorized capsule/shield?
The blue bulbs are Halogen bulbs (Halogen gas w/Filiment) Not HID/Xenon.
The middle bulb is a HID or Xenon bulb (Xenon gas w/NO Filiment)
The last picture (Far Right) is the crap I first had in my truck. It has both Halogen(High) & Xenon(Low) ffice
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Here is my TL projector in my stock reflector

Here is some preliminary cutoff pics before better aligment
EDIT: BTW, here's where I got mine:
http://www.xenonlink.com/
Last edited by Izzy351; Dec 14, 2007 at 06:37 PM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The first picture is of a bad HID kit with horrible light patern notice no cut off.
The second is a good HID kit notice the cut off is the same as the stock halogen lights in the last picture.

I like the 8000Ks a lot. A guy here put up a pic of his truck with the 10000Ks and they were VERY blue. The 8000Ks are more white than blue. When they first turn on, they're more blue, then a short time later they get a bit whiter. I was on the fence between the two, and I like these. If you want even more white, get the 6000Ks. I like the slightly blue light, but that's my taste. And they are definitely bright...
Last edited by Boosted02; Dec 18, 2007 at 03:14 PM.
Some HID kits have separate ignitors and ballasts but include everything you need as well.


