I have a 1978 F350 SuperCab. I would like to take out my gauge cluster and replace the bulbs. How do I take the headlight and wiper ***** off? Any other tips for removing my guages? I take t the oil pressure gauge will have a thin tube that will have to be taken off the back,no? Thanks for the tips!!

Rod

 

the windshield wiper switch should pull right off, the ones on my truck do, under the dash and theres a button on top of the headlight switch u need to press down to pull the **** out

this question gets asked alot, please read through forums before you post a new topic

 

The wiper **** should not pull right off. It's held on by a spring clip. Turn the **** so the cutout in the underside of the **** can be seen. Take a paperclip and trip the clip by pushing it backwards. Now the **** will pull off.

If the **** just pulls off without going through the above procedure, the spring clip is damaged or missing.

The **** is D3OZ-17513-B and is the same as 1973/79 F100/350, 1973/76 Torino/Montego, 74/80 Pinto/Bobcat, 74/76 T-Bird, and 1978/79 Bronco. Last time I checked, it was still available from Ford.

 

oops. guess mine are broken...

 

D3OZ-17513-B .. Wiper **** ~ Still available from Ford. List price: $9.74

 

Thanks NumberDummy! Now for my dumb question. I assume that your paper clip technique works on both the wiper **** and the headlight ****. That would make sense anyway. Just clarifying.


Thanks,

Rod

 

The headlamp switch **** & shaft are made as one assembly on most* vehicles, and so, come off as a unit. On a very few vehicles (not 73/79 F100/350's & 78/79 Bronco's), you can remove the **** only, but what's the point unless you are just replacing the ****? You're removing it to replace the switch, so the shaft has to come off regardless.

Removal: Disconnect battery cable for safety. Pull headlamp **** all the way out. Reach under the dash and push the button on the bottom of the switch in...Pull off **** and shaft. Remove nut that holds switch to dash.

It's not necessary to push the button to re-install the **** & shaft. Just line it up...and push it back in.

* 1973/thru early 1975 F100/350: D3TZ-11661-A .. Headlamp Switch **** & Shaft.

Late 1975/79 F100/350 & 78/79 Bronco: D4FZ-11661-A .. Headlamp Switch **** & Shaft. ~ Also fits: 1973/80 Pinto/Bobcat.

 

This is only my second post here so feel free to tell me it doesn't belong here. I've modded a big celebrity board for three years and know what a pain new people can be.

When I had aftermarket running boards installed on my F-350 four-door Ford dually in 1993, they didn't take advantage of all the available auxilliary circuits and ran the lighted boards (not what I wanted but all they had in stock) through the parking light circuit resulting in a slow burning of the switch and the terminal block. As a result I'm very familiar with removing the headlight **** from ruining several by bending the locking clip past its fatigue point and paying $17 to replace it.

The '93 model has the large aluminum support bulkhead for the dash that makes it very hard to reach the release button.

I have long since removed the wiring to the running board lights but the slow high current draw has trashed several switches and the terminal block which is now in three pieces. The symptoms after a year with Ford and Wells switches is the difficulty to get the headlights and running lights on at the same time. As for the ****, I've learned to just pull out the shaft with my fingertips as I'm tired of paying the high price for a new ****.

Bottom line is be sure any aftermarket installers of lighted accessories take advantage of one of the many high-current fused circuits in the box under the hood so you don't have to keep pulling the dash apart to replace the headlight switch.

 

I have been warning people about the PROPER procedure of removing the headight switch shaft for 6.5 years.

Too many people come on FTE and tell others to just pull it out or push on the locking button TOO SOON and end up breaking it and yet even after reading about the proper way they continue to explain it wrong.

There are Proper ways to do things,

The Button ONLY Gets pushed once the shaft is in the Headlights ON position.

Thanks for telling them the proper way Bill

 

There is an easier way .....See the Photo posted above