Well, I am new to all of this and taking baby steps. After fixing a bunch of minor items, I decided to try something a little bigger, the EBP sensor cleaning. I should preference this with the fact that I envy all you guys with all the tools. When you are first starting out, getting the tools with each little job really racks up the price tag. On the bright side, or so I thought, I have a neighbor that seems to have one of every tool made. Most of the tools are still in the orginal packages ( note to self: this is a warning sign ).

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I started the EBP sensor cleaning per the instructions on guzzle's site. I got the sensor off and it was jamb packed with soot ( might help explain my 13 MPG ). Loosened the top fitting on the EBP Tube just fine. I could not get the lower fitting to budge. Neighbor wanders over and says he has just the tool. I go into the house to change ( 32 degree, had started raining/shushing , and I was soaked ).<O></O>

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I come out of the house and the neighbor is there with a small compressor, and impact gun. He tells me that on these rusted fitting one needs to use an impact tool, but he can not get his impact gun in the available space. Also, the factory must have forgot to include an air fitting on his gun, so even if it did fit, we could not use it ( the newly opened box is sitting next to the impact-gun ). All is not lost though, he is going to show me the old way of doing it. He then heads back over to his place. By this time the wind is picking up big time and my ears are freezing, so I go in to get a hat. I come out and he is under the truck with a 5/8" wrench, with a piece of pipe over it, and a small sledge. I indicate to him that I am not sure about this, but he assures me it will work just fine. Whack, whack, whack, nothing. Few cuss words, a big windup, whack, nothing. A full body windup, Whack, Snap, Ting! The EBP Tube is twisted and the adaptor fitting into the exhaust pipe is snapped in half. The neighbor says "That happens sometimes, luck of the draw." He then gets up and sheepishly says he has to get off to work. I am standing there, in the hail at this point, next to my only motorized transportation, with half a broken adaptor ( the other half is broken off in the exhaust pipe ) and a twisted closed piece of steel tubing. <O></O>

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What are you going to do? I went in, called the Ford Dealer, which is about 20 miles away, and enquired about the parts. I was told that the tube would take two or three days to order and the adaptor fitting is not something that they carry. I then called Schucks, which is about 8 miles away. They indicated that I have to get the tube from the dealer. Furthermore, they indicated that they no longer stock fittings, but had a old coffee can full of miscellaneous fittings that I was welcomed to sort through.

Well, back outside I go with a hammer and a big nail. In about two hours of mucking about, I have the tube sort of opened up and looking half way decent. Then a long walk in the snow, because, of course, the weather was not going to give me a break, and I am sorting through the fittings at Schucks. This results in a used, but serviceable brass fitting. The one that was in the truck was steel. Long walk home.


Now I spend 4 more hours of getting the broken piece out. To be fair, I was not able to remove the broken piece until the neighbor got home from work and produced a funny shaped drill bit, called an extractor, out of his garage. And Yes, it was still in it’s store bought plastic shrink wrap. Installed the brass fitting, put it together, and it runs.<O></O>

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Lessons and Question: The neighbor’s tools are welcomed, but the neighbor has to stay at home. Will this brass fitting cause me any grief, or do I need to find a steel one and install it when the new tube comes in? I hoping to leave on a trip tomorrow, unless of course I going to damage the truck.<O></O>

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Thx’s, Fred ( jyblood@nwi.net )<O></O>

 

Thats a Good One - Glad you got it going finally- Hang in there- The more jobs you tackle the more confidence you'll get and then you'll feel good doing bigger jobs. Buy the tools you need for the job. The money you spend on tools will pay you back 10 fold over the life of the truck and think of all the money you save doing these jobs yourself, not to mention the experience gained. Good Luck !!! As far as the brass fitting Im not sure where you installed that .Is this a compression coupling. Probably fine with it as long as inside diameter is the same as the tube.

 

+100 to all of that. The money saved (tool costs come from a, ahem, "different account"), the satisfaction of doing it yourself, knowing that you don't have to trust someone else, and of course the confidence it builds. That last one there is key; when you have a mechanical problem on a snowy mountain pass at midnight, with no cell service, and you know what to do and have the tools to do it... ...you can't put a price on that.

And when you've done all of this, and you're older and wiser, the number one rule is, "Don't be that neighbor". Offer coaching and advice, but keep your hands off of his truck!

e.g. "You could try this, but it might twist your EBPS pipe..."

Followed by "Oh, dude... ...hey, look at the time... ...well, gotta go"

 

The brass fitting was installed in the exhaust pipe on the passengers side, exactly where the broken off one was. It is the same type fitting that attaches to the nuts on the existing EBP Tube. Not sure if these are compression or not. The existing tube probably does not seal the greatest at the moment as if was reformed with a hammer and a duplex nail avil. New tube is on order.

Thx's, Fred ( jyblood@nwi.net )

 

You will be fine with the brass plug. Hope you put some anti sieze on those threads.... look here for an explanation of how to make your own tube, and get a few tools , all cheaper than the $40 that the dealer wants for the tube. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...st5040228.html

Look at post #15 in the link above.

 

By antiseize if you mean white teflon tape. No, I thought the heat would eat it and I did not see any evidence on the nuts on the EBP Tube of it being there. Should I dissassemble again and add the tape?

Thx's, Fred ( jyblood@nwi.net )

 

Fred,
No, Anti Sieze is a chemical that is sold at auto parts stores that is used on threads of high temperature pieces. (its kinda the opposite of thread locker) it creates a barrier in between the male threads and the female lands. it allows dissasembly of the mated parts, it is not to be used for strength type matings, but for a EBP tupe it is perfect. If anti sieze had been added to your original fitting it would have unscrewed without all the hassle that you had to go through.

Anti-sieze is very inexpensive. about $3 for a tube that will last a long time.

 

That fitting is a male pipe by male JIC fitting - if I recall correctly 1/4" male pipe by #4 JIC. The brass will work, but the heat might be an issue (slight). Also might be a thing about dis-similar metals causing corrosion if it gets covered in road salt. Any decent hydraulic store should have one, in steel.

 

Yep, good and cheap. I used the versa-chem type 13 on mine. I use it on the threaded parts of my muzzleloader too. I use it a lot of other places too.

 

While you're at the parts store getting anti-seize, pick up a can of PB Blaster also. It might save you from breaking a seized up fitting, nut, bolt or screw in the future.

Austin

 

stopped by the hydraulic shop tonight to pick up the fitting. While there, I noticed that they had a display of CRC chemicals including anti-seize ( two types -> copper and not copper ) and what they called 'Screwloose'. The gentleman seemed very amenableand we got to talking. Just want to run past you guys what he said.

First of all he indicated that the fitting 1/2 that I had was a JIC #5 which was a 37.5 degree flared fitting. He indicated that the one I picked up at Schucks was probably a SAE 45 degree flared fitting and they are not interchangable ( but can be screwed together leading to all sorts of problems ). Additionally he indicated that anti-seize, or other chemicals are not to be used on these fittings. After explaining my application, he indicated that the anti-sieze should be used on the 1/4 inch pipe thread and probably would not hurt on the flared fitting threads. In general though anti-seize or other chemicals should not be used on these type of fittings. When I asked about the PB Blaster, he indicated that Screwloose works better in his opinion, but most penatrating oils work OK just stay away from WD-40.

Anyway I left with both anti-seizes, the fitting, and the Screwloose. He told me when to use the copper and when to use the other, but it seemed to get lost in my mind between the shop and home. I will replace the fitting when I return from my trip, but have it in case I need it on the road ( although it seems to run correctly now ).

Thanks for all the help. Fred ( jyblood@nwi.net )

 

Wow, ya found a decent guy. Most of those guys have too much time on their hands IMO. Been there done that piecing together my DIY fuel system. Almost wanted to tell him to shut up and give me what I was asking for instead of the diatribe. I finally left the hydraulic shop when he told me they do not carry a bulkhead fitting for my sump assembly, later dude. Went to True Value after that, along with a call to Summit, and still running just fine. Sometimes a guy just needs to sell you what you ask for. I have used that copper stuff in a lot of applications without incident. I will continue to do so until incident occurs.

 

the guy is kinda right and kinda wrong

the sae 45 deg and jic 37 deg aren't really designed to work together but normally will in a pinch,the steel jic fitting will be much stronger
just ordinary anti-seize can be used almost anywhere you don't want something to seize up and was before the copper came into play
PB Blaster is about if not the best penetrant on the market,WD 40 is a good lubricant but not a good penetrant

 

Would the EBPS sensor throw a code if it was dirty?

 

a soft code with no light....when i do KOEO test it shows up on my truck