So lately, when my car's cold, and I start driving, then go to stop, for the first like ten or so times, my drums are REALLY squeaky and grabby ( i know its my drums cuz i get the same symptons when i try to stop with just my parking brake) and i want to know from people's experience, HOW IN THE HECK DO I ADJUST THOSE THINGS???? or should i just take the van to a brake shop and bite the 200+ dollar bill?

 

They are self-adjusting but they need to be round. Try to get them turned. I found out the both of mine were so warped I had to replace them. Fortunately Aero parts are CHEAP.

 

oh really? well in that case they are very much so out of round... i will borrow a caliper from school and look up what the tolerence's of drums for our aero's are, and if i need new ones, i'm hittin up the bone yard (fifty bux a drum for a new one, iirc)

 

grabby brakes are an indication of leaking lube from axle seals, brake grease on shoes or leaking brake fluid on shoes.

the self adjusters on Aero drums seldom work well after a year or 2

 

Spend the $12-15 for a Haynes or Chilton's shop manual and follow along the rear brake adjustment procedure.

In a nutshell, there is a little access slot on the backside of each brake housing. You pry out the rubber stopper and use a brake adjuster tool (looks like a large, bent, flat screw driver) to turn the adjuster wheel inside until the tire just drags when turned.

Like everything else, it sounds easy - and it really is once you get the hang of doing it. First time efforts are often maddening as the adjuster will turn easily one way but not the other and of course, you've just made it too tight.

I also agree with 96_4wdr's assessment of leaky seals. If you see any traces of brake fluid seepage out the bottom of the brake housing, you will need more than an adjustment.

 

DCRB-I'll give you some insite to my experience with Aero drums. First off, you said you were going to remove them and them have them measured? GREAT! PERFECT! Here is the catch. The other fellow said self adjusting-TRUE! When your rear pads wear and heaven forbid the worst case scenerio happens and the metal rivets that hold the material to the metal shoe eat into the inner drums you can not simply remove them. As the drums wear and the pads ground down what you are now faced with is your set up is larger than when installed because the actuator adjusts the "STAR WHEEL" out! So what happens is that when you physically try to remove them all that you have is a type of wobble, but no "AFT" (towards you) movement as you're trying desperately to tap/beat them off. On the back side of your hub assembly you'll find a miniture "hot dog" sized opening at the 6 O'clock position). This is where you'll gain acess to the star wheel and its teeth. There are basically all kinds of special tools that you can use for everyone has their own preference. What "BOZ" does is this. I simply have mastered the technique of sticking a large, but very thin screwdriver (standard slot) into the hole. The trick is that above the star screw is a small metal arm that is spring loaded. Its job is to apply tension to the actuator (Star Wheel) so when your brake shoe/inner metal path of your hub wears down the surviving shoe will still do its job. Take your screw driver, insert it into the hole. Next, feel around. I'd say that you will get resitance within an 1/2". Hold your screwdriver at the bottom of the drum opening (hot dog shaped hole). Now ever so gently angle the point of your screw driver end (point end) up by holding your handle down. You will start to feel the blade of your screwdriver skip across the teeth of the wheel. "BINGO"-you're there. Now just practice for awhile. For every 3 attempts you will make money once. Turn the wheel either direction about 4 times. Wobble your drum. This will tell you if your loosening the star screw in the right direction or not by the hub getting loosey goosey or even tighter that when you first started rappng on it. The measuring part. Don't sweat the small stuff at this point. Auto Zone will measure it for servicability. You have a great idea about the junk yard. Also have the fellow there cross reference you with other ford product rides. It will increase your chances. One last tid bit of info. for you regarding your rear brakes. Once you have installed new ones there is something special yet weird about our rides. The tolerance with a new set of brake shoes with the correct hub assembly tolerance plus the added ingrediant of rain will make your ride seem squirrely at first. As your brakes exspand outward against your new or reworked hubs you will notice a very QUICK response. You see the manufacturer didn't leave much margine for error in this area and when you first drive your Aero in the rain or a puddle for that matter just be prepared you will not be able to "SNEAK UP" on a stop for the first several months until your assy. wears down over time, the water between your shoes and hub plus the water will make for an "OVER-SIZED" brake forcing you into what seems like PANIC stops. Be fore warned okay. Sorry for the lenghty message. I tend to go overboard as if I'm right there on the job. 20 years of being a Jet Engine Mechanic on A-10's, F-15 Strike Eagles, B-52 Bombers, B-2 Stealth Bombers and most recently U-2 spy planes will do that to a guy as far as the detail is concerned.---"HAppy DAze"--Boz

 

Rear drum brakes click

 

Here's the procedure for getting the shoes close.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/c8/28/0900823d8014c828/repairInfoPages.htm

Then this applies:
"Rear drum brakes are adjusted automatically by alternately driving the vehicle forward and reverse, and applying the brakes firmly. Brake adjustment occurs during reverse stops only."

When I had a similar problem it was my drums. The brake shop showed me how when they tried to true them up the opposing sides weren't getting touched by the machine. The drums were ellipticle. My theory is that the wife was leaving the parking brake on slightly and the heat warped them. Replaced the drums and everything was fine again.
If your shop is cool, you have nothing to lose by taking them in. When they showed me that they couldn't correct them, they didn't charge me anything.

 

964dr nice info. nothing better perfect

 

oh so if i go backwards down my street and apply the brakes over and over they will adjust themselves?

i tried adjusting them with a screwdriver, but i don't think i got them adjusted tight enough. i couldn't tell when they would start dragging, cuz honestly, it sounded like they were dragging the whole time

 

oh yeah how do i know if my abs system is working? tonight i was driving down division going down hill and one of my rear wheels locked up till i let off the brakes then steped on it again

 

Your problem is not adjustment. Handbrake tensioner operates the ratchet and is what adjusts these brakes; if your handbrake works in 2-3 clicks the drums are adjusted. One good reason to use the handbrake daily.

If you get grabbing only for the first few times sounds like rust build up on the drum surface. Oil on the drums will cause reduced/no braking. You might have a weeping brake cylinder if oil is present.
In any case you need to remove the drums & take a look see!
As the shoes wear the arc of contact becomes closer to the cylinder & braking through hydraulics is reduced. At the same time the "servo" effect of the leading shoe is increased & can pull itself into the drum creating the grab effect. When shoes are fitted, you'll notice the linings are not symetrical & that is the reason why, they are only supposed to be fitted one way.
Oval drums will likely make pedal pulsation? but it would have to be pretty excessive to make the drums lock while braking.... if you know a machine shopyou can get them re-turned & this would cure that problem. They can only be turned to a max size though & this should not be exceeded.
With the sqeaking you have, probably your on the rivets or steel shoes, dont delay or you'll soon have a bigger problem!

Good luck, Aeroman.

 

ok thanks. being that my car came from indianna orig... my drums are covered in flakey rust on the out side (as is my suspension, but not much else suprisingly) and the drum pistons look all corroded. I think next pay check i'm going get all the parts to rebuild the inards of the drum, do that then take it to a brake shop to have them check it out.

my ebrake works with like one or two clicks, when i just barly pull it up while driving i can feel them start to drag, but its a pulsing drag, so that there tells me my drum(s) are out of round, right? the only time it doesnt get stuck in two clicks is when i drive up onto my drive on jack stands and the car is parked halfway in the air, that's when i can rip it up all the way

 

cheaper to buy new rear brake cylinders than try to rebuild them, bores usually too rusted and pitted to hone out anyway

spend the little extra and get quality drums and shoes such as Raybestos' top line PG Plus, will last far longer
look for a brake shoe that is rated FF on the side of the friction material=friction coefficient

important to put a dab of brake grease on the backing plate at rub points

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i was thinking the same about the brake cylinders... i bought raybestos' pads up front, and i love them. now that they're broken in i'd say they're perfect. not too grabby, but not too slick at the same time, car stops crazy fast (and nose dips way down) but its all good cuz it never skids