If the slide pins are free, it just drags the caliper back and forth. If it's REALLY bad, OK, the inertia will be transfered to the hydraulic fluid

 

I have to go with Redford on this...warped rotors will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal. Guaranteed.

However, I don't believe that the original question was ever answered. As I am having this very same problem, I'm interested in finding a solution. As was suggested here, I always torque my lug nuts with a torque wrench; I only use the impact wrench to run the lug nuts down the stud and seat the wheels. I just did the brakes a few months ago, and they're already warped again. I've used factory rotors and NAPA rotors...both warp in less than a year. I use the truck as a daily driver, so it's never loaded down. I stop gently and slowly for the first few days to seat the pads. Regardless, the front rotors warp in no time flat.

There HAS to be a better way. Anyone know what it is? I'm tired of spilling my coffee when I hit the brakes!

 

Start by reading the document on the link I posted. There is a detailed procedure to break in the brakes and it involves getting them very hot on the first drive out.

If you don't read it, you're really missing out.

 

You actually should NOT get them hot to break them in, this can cause them to glaze on the surface. Taking it gentle the first few times you drive with new brakes is all you need to do.

 

Okay, I read it. It talks about high performace aftermarket brake pads. It says nothing about parts-store truck pads. It also says that the brakes need to be heated AND COOLED slowly to burn off any bonding material. I would imagine that bringing a sports car to a gradual stop from 60 MPH probably generates just as much heat as halting a Supercab dually from 30 mph. In sum, I don't believe that I'm missing out on much.

 

Hey if that works for you, then stick with it. You'll forgive me if I use the process illustrated by a guy who worked with Shelby in the 60's building race cars and also was a consultant for Ferrari's F1 program rather than old wives tales.

Here's the key part for those who missed the link...

"The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over."

 

Not to continue arguing over this, but I always find it suspect when someone goes "But this racing guy said this, so it must be true".

Was he designing braking systems for trucks?

In that quote you posted, are these words: "high performance street pad."

Forgive me, but ... I don't think I have "high performance street pads" on my truck, when a racing guy is saying "high performance".

Over the past 25 years doing my own work (and other family members'), when I first started out, I heard that whole entire procedure just like you quoted. And was plagued with various issues, warped rotors, stuck calipers, you name it.

Within the past 10 years, I've stopped doing that, and instead just be very VERY light on them for the first 500 miles, if possible. If I can get through that period without any hard braking, I find that those brakes last FOREVER. No warping, no squeeling, no other problems whatsoever.

So, there is going to be some dissent here. Some people are going to swear by their break-in method, others will disagree and do it the exact opposite.

I think it comes down to how well the rotor is machined, and how flat the pads are. If both parts are as straight as possible, and nothing comes into play that disturbs that, the rotor will not score, the pad will not overheat in one small area and glaze, etc.

In other words, with perfect parts, you can do the hard-braking sort of break-in method.

If they aren't perfect, you need to take it VERY VERY easy until they bed in ... if you don't, they glaze in spots, do not uniformly heat the rotor causing warping, etc.

 

Like I stated above, if it works for you stick with it. I've got 220,000+ miles without a shudder doing it my (Mr Smith's) way. Original rear discs, pads changed once in the back and twice in the front.

 

If It helps, here is the instructions that came with my ART rotors & pads:

WARNING:

Clean the brake discs before installation to remove rust inhibiters usedto protect the friction surfaces.

Torque requirements

Brake Calipers

Pad and Rotor Bedding-in Procedure for Street Performance Pads

 

I wonder if these aftermarket semi-metallic or ceramic brake pads are not good for the stock rotors. Sure, the brakes pads last, because they are transferring all of the heat to the rotors. I wonder if OEM-style brake pads (organic?) would help?
Thoughts?

 

I think you have some odd ideas about how brakes work.

A brake convert mechanical motion into heat. This is done via friction bewteen the pads and the rotor. The rotor absorbs the heat, releasing this residual heat into the air as it can. In simplistic terms, if you build up more heat in the rotor than you can release you experience brake fade.

The pads will get hot, but they are not designed to absorb heat. They could only transfer heat to the caliper, which you really don't want.

 

I understand what you are saying, and I also understand how brakes work. I guess I'm thinking these types of pads (metallic and ceramic) are too aggressive for the factory rotors and are overheating them, therefore warping.

 

I will tell you one thing, even if they make them standard organic pads will not last on a Super Duty . They can not take the heat that is generated. If you can find them try some Wagner discs, I think the quality may be a bit better than the NAPA discs. Althought I've used NAPA discs with mixed results. Also Ford has some severe service pads that work real well.
jr

 

the newer center piloted wheeld on super duty must be torqued, 150 is good. the smaller cars cab have big problems for the brakes if the lugs arent tightened properly. the 350 over tightened can crush the washer under the nut and lead to a loose wheel.,,to loose and the same thing. have you priced a alum 350 nwheel? the duallys usssually break thestuds. i have seen more than a few dualyys on the siide of the road with the rear wheels broke off.

 

I've never had a problem with warped rotors ever since I started to tighten them with a torque wrench .