Well it's that time of year, when batteries & altenators go belly up!!!!
Poke around this site, it has answers to just about any question we're likly to have about batteries.

From how to choose, care for, test, & charge. Which charger type to use & why, to who makes which brand of battery.

Even how to use your digital multimeter to measure battery cable voltage drop, or open circuit state of charge, etc. etc.

Enjoy the info, I sure have.
http://www.jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/

 

Since I use batteries in my boat and vehicals (my last hand crank start was my old '59 Triumph TR3-A ), I found this to be a good learning source. Worthy of a 'sticky', I think.
Anyhow, thanks for the heads up on it PawPaw.

 

Ran across this Ford informational TSB this morning & thought I'd add it to this threads subject matter.

It's worth taking the time to read ALL of it, as there are thoughts concerning new & used lot vehicles about to be purchased, and their batteries condition that most of us wouldn't likely think about.

Also a heads up on Fords battery "eye" & what it's really for & what it can & can't tell us about the batteries condition & knowing that might prevent some of us from buying a new battery that isn't really needed, or falling for a high pressure battery salesmans pitch, using that battery eye as his selling point!!!!!

ALLDATAdiy.com - 2001 Ford Escort ZX2 L4-2.0L DOHC VIN 3 - Battery - Battery Eye Function/Charging/Service

 

pawpaw, 1+

i will also add this to the top, nice post!

 

You link doesn't work anymore> I found it had changed to:

Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ 2010, Battery Manufacturers and Brand Names List, and Battery References and Information Links List

 

So what do you guys think about an optima yellow top batterie? I was going to get the one with top and side post, top for the stock terminals, and the side for my fog lights, neon lights, electric fan, and other random thingys.

 

I unhooked my battery and after hooking back up now my anti theft light is on and i cant get it to reset on my 04 ranger

 

Welcome to FTE.

Which battery cable did you unhook & did you unhook the battery with the ignition switch on????

 

Something i'd like to point out is to never try to charge a frozen battery. If it's completely dead, and cold enough outside the battery could freeze. If you tried to charge it, it could explode.

Also, batteries give off a gas while charging that is explosive. Be sure to turn off, then unplug the charger before removing it from the battery.

This is also the reason for connecting the last ground cable away from the battery when jump-starting.

Stay safe!

 

We Have a '99' ford ranger p/u We've put a new alternator & new battery in it , It still show "NO CHARGING VOLTAGE". What is Going on & how do we fix it?

 

Welcome to FTE.

Check the owners manual for the location of the field coil fuse, if it's blown, the field coil won't self excite, thus no alternator output.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Great info, thx!

 

Well...going to work...60 degrees; truck won't start. One loud "thunk"...then nothing. No idiot lights, etc. Charged battery...same result. put charger to "quick start" started 2 times. Bought new battery...one loud "thunk"... then nothing. Changed starter...one loud "thunk"...then nothing, then no idiot lights. One other thing, after the new battery didn't work I ran a secondary ground from the battery to the engine...one loud "thunk", no idiot lights.

 

60 degrees...truck won't start! One loud "thunk" when turn key to start. Back to "run" and no idiot lights. Charged the battery, same result as before. Put the charger in "quick start" mode...started two times. Changed the battery, still same "thunk" and result. Ran a secondary ground line, same "thunk" and result. Changed the starter...same "thunk and result...HELP!!

 

Try using a good quality large wire gauge, say 4 gauge, jump start cable in a parallel connection, from the battery B+ post to the starter solenoid & see if it makes any difference. If it does, suspect the vehicles B+ cable has broken wire strands, or a bad/loose/corroded connection at the cables lug, or battery post clamp.

If the jumper doesn't make any difference, remove both battery cables & clean the posts & cable clamps & see how it goes.

With no dash lights lit, even with the charger in jump start mode, it sounds like a connection, or cable problem. ALL battery cable connections need to be clean, bright & tight, to prevent under load voltage drop. As we only have 12 volts or so to work with, it doesn't take much resistance in the circuit to cause mischief.

A high resistance connection thats recently been put under a heavy electrical load, will feel warm, or hot, so your sense of touch can do some quick trouble shooting if you don't have a multimeter to perform some under load voltage drop tests, as outlined in the tutorial.

Let us know what you find.