Wich filter is better? the PL-1HP says it flows better, but is that at the expence of filtration? any help would be great!

 

The HP model is usally intended for people with high performance engine application where flow is more important due to max range use of the engine. The HP can is usually thicker for higher PSI burst strength.

If you do not fit the above, then the PL-1A will serve you well. The HP model is more expensive because of the physical demand needed for it in race applications. Many confuse the higher price with better product but that is not the reality if you are using a more stock application.

Hootbro

 

ok great thanks, one more question though, will the hp increas my oil pressure more than the 1a? right now i use fram! i never knew they wer so bad!

 

Doubt the HP will increase pressure if flow is higher but hydrodynamics is not my thing.

I would dump the Fram also. Even the Wal-Mart Supertech are a better filter for less $$.

 

i always thought i was doing a good thing by buying fram filters. guess i was totally wrong lol. im going to put a napa filter on, but after that its only motorcraft! its the cheap napa not the blue one...

 

I Think you must be talking about the FL-1A Vs. FL-1HP. The HP is like any other High Performance Oil filter, it has a intense sidewall to protect against high pressures in those 305 and 351 HP motors. Cool Filter, Can't wait till Ford produces a FL-820HP.

 

The perfect storm, high volume "racing" pump and SAE 50 "racing" oil in a street engine. Result, exploded filter at startup. That is why HP filters exist, with extra strong cans and media that filters less and flows more. Engines set up with "loose" bearing clearances and operated in true racing conditions, oil changes every few running hours, only need minimal filtering.

Jim

 

Direct from the MotorCraft Website.

 

so would i be sacrificing filtration by using the hp model? i have a mostly stock 351. if the fl-1hp filters the same as the 1A, i will go with that because of more flow. does anyone have the filtration specs for these 2 filters?

 

It sounds like a bigger bypass valve instead of different media, since the Motorcraft design has the bypass at the base plate end of the filter assembly.

"The base plate design provides full oil flow under high rev conditions."

STP used to have a dual stage design that would use a coarse filter media for the bypassed oil.

Jim

 

Exactly. Everyone here is right on the money.

I like the suggestion for a Motorcraft FL820sHP. Makes sense, since many of the newer Ford wngines can be built for a racing application, with EFI. Probably why there has not been this HP filter, as most ALL-Out race motors still run various 4 BBL Carb setups, even 2X4BBls.
(Always loved the Dodge -- Plymouth 440 Six-Pack setups, 3 Holley 2BBLs. When all three of those 2BBLs opened, (full throttle) it was time to shut up, hold on, and GET DOWN!!)
The Ford race motors, coupled with cold start up, high compression, could produce some intense oil pressures, where the oil filter was usually the weakest link in the system. The HP staut, oil filters were a must, as well as with ALL-OUT race motors which ran on various alcohol / high octane gasoline ratios, all the way to pure nitrometane.
The Ford Motorcraft Race Oil Filters are a quality product, MOROSO also manufactures a quality Race-oriented Oil Filter.

 

so if it doesnt sacrifice filtration, is it worth the extra cash for a mostly stock application? i'm worried about having to low oil pressure. also when my motor is cold, i get 70-90 psi oil pressure. what do you guys think?

 

In my mostly misspent youth in the '70's, we did a lot of work with various small block, Cleveland and FE Ford engines, including high flow and/or high pressure pumps on a number of 'em. We used FL-1A's and FL-299's (the longer, high capacity HD truck filter) and Fram PH-8A's (!!!) just about exclusively with no problems.

After seeing 120+ PSI a few times on the Auto-Meter at cold startup in the one engine (a 414 FE - a 390 block with 428 crank and 0.020" overbore) we had in our F-250 snowplow truck (boy, could that puppy move the snow!! ), we switched to the Fram HP-1. Dunno if it made any difference, but it gave us some peace of mind. Of course, back then we were of the "if it's a hi-po engine, it needs 20W-50 Valvoline Racing Oil" school of thought; if we'd used a decent 10-30 or 10-40, I'm sure the cold-start numbers would have been lower. With the amazing synthetics available today, it'd be better still.

We did quite a few 351/400M's (I'm assuming you have one of those in your '77) and used the standard filter in every case with no problems. If the FL-299 will fit (sometimes frame, suspension or front differential pieces get in the way), it's a cheap way to increase your oil capacity by a quart or so. Best bet is to use a good oil and filter (FL-1A's are, what, $3.99 at Wal-Mart? - can't beat that!!), and change it regularly.

 

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You will be fine with the filtration provided by the various HP oil filters we've talked about.

I have seen them on manyvarious Ford, MOPAR, Chevy, Pontiac musclecars, cars that are driven and not trailer queens. These owners would not risk a break down, or detriment in these performance motors, even factory stock motors.

It's kind of like saying should I use the Wal-Mart battery and the Acme Golden Star Radials on my '68 Corvette? Well, yeah, the Wal-Mart battery will start the engine, the Golden Star radials will get you to McDonalds and back. Is this what you want to invest in, when you own a '68 'Vette?

I kind of doubt it...

Hence, use the HP oil filter with confidence, the MOROSO race oil filter, or similar oil filter of your choosing, without worrying if it poses any harm to your engine.

Hope that answers your question.

Ed