Carter 1barrel
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2001
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Carter 1barrel
Just would like to know if anyone else is experiencing the same problems as I do. Regarding starting of truck in the morning: I find that the colder the temperature is the higher I must turn up my high idle. Also, the engine speed drops at certian engine temps before normal operating temp. is reached. The high idle drops sometimes about 200 rpms, and sometimes likes to stall. If the truck is plugged in the high idle stays constant? Is this common to the Carter 1 barrel(300 Six)?, Or is this a common characteristic. My dad owned the truck before ,and he says the truck never used to start like that. Ever since I can remember it has started like that, I've had to baby it on start ups? The truck has been totally restored with all new parts, accept for themotor. Could the carb need replacing? I put in a carb kit, with no difference in start ups.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Carter 1barrel
Usually if your experiencing hard starting, can't keep it running unless you got a lot of foot on the pedal, etc., your CHOKE is either BINDING closed or open.
You didn't say what year and/or if this is electric assist choke.
Get some carb cleaner, remove the choke housing (AFTER marking the housing and the carb) and spray EVERYTHING there with cleaner, exercise the linkage, and spray again until everything moves freely.
If you have an electric assist, check the wire for voltage (12V), and the coil for continuity (oHm meter between the lead and the grounding area on the cap.)
Also check for a broken spring inside the cap. If broken, purchase new cap at auto parts store.
Do initial adjustments when engine cold. If electric assist, leave disconnected until you get the initial setting for the choke plate and the idle speed set. THEN hook up the electric wire.
Also check for Vacuum leaks around base of carb (loose bolts, etc.), and intake.
Hope this helps.
Larry
You didn't say what year and/or if this is electric assist choke.
Get some carb cleaner, remove the choke housing (AFTER marking the housing and the carb) and spray EVERYTHING there with cleaner, exercise the linkage, and spray again until everything moves freely.
If you have an electric assist, check the wire for voltage (12V), and the coil for continuity (oHm meter between the lead and the grounding area on the cap.)
Also check for a broken spring inside the cap. If broken, purchase new cap at auto parts store.
Do initial adjustments when engine cold. If electric assist, leave disconnected until you get the initial setting for the choke plate and the idle speed set. THEN hook up the electric wire.
Also check for Vacuum leaks around base of carb (loose bolts, etc.), and intake.
Hope this helps.
Larry
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Carter 1barrel
In response to Larry's post. Had a thermostatic spring controlling choke, hard starts were evident with that set up. Then put in carb kit, added manual choke, and always use carb spray. I spray carb throte, linkages, and generally change fuel filter. I still have cold start problems, and have learned to live with this characteristic. So, you are saying that this is not a common feature? I must need a new carb? Maybe the bottom butterfly is worn, and sucking air? What do you think? I have done all the abvious and common fixes and still remain with a strange but unique cold starting dilema? I have accepted this as a characteristic to a carburated engine, should I? (1978 F150,300 Six,1 barrel Carter, Had a manual thermostatic spring controlled choke, now have a strait manual choke, Everything stock.)
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Joined: Oct 2001
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Carter 1barrel
here is my experience for what its worth. On one of my rigs I had to put the setting at 4 rich and then bend the choke linkage to set the plate as if it were only at 1 rich. what this did was put more tension on the thermostatic spring and allowed the idle to stay on the high cam longer while keeping the enginefrom running too rich. this worked perfect and was the only thing to work.
On my other truck I just simply went in and readjusted the metering rod as well as the float. I could if I wanted jump into either truck start it and take off in the coldest of weather. Though I perfer to baby them and let them warm up first.
On my other truck I just simply went in and readjusted the metering rod as well as the float. I could if I wanted jump into either truck start it and take off in the coldest of weather. Though I perfer to baby them and let them warm up first.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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Carter 1barrel
So, you are
>saying that this is not a common feature? I must need a new
>carb? Maybe the bottom butterfly is worn, and sucking air?
Got the same problem with my '80. You may be losing most or all of the gas from the float bowl overnight. As the weather gets colder, the problem gets better. I can put a kit in it and it improves for a while, but this truck has been doing it for 10 years.
You can bet the bottom butterfly is worn and sucking air. So far I've been unable to find a replacement butterfly shaft and bushing kit for it. These parts have got to be available somewhere....like where do the rebuilders get them?
>saying that this is not a common feature? I must need a new
>carb? Maybe the bottom butterfly is worn, and sucking air?
Got the same problem with my '80. You may be losing most or all of the gas from the float bowl overnight. As the weather gets colder, the problem gets better. I can put a kit in it and it improves for a while, but this truck has been doing it for 10 years.
You can bet the bottom butterfly is worn and sucking air. So far I've been unable to find a replacement butterfly shaft and bushing kit for it. These parts have got to be available somewhere....like where do the rebuilders get them?
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