Seems to me heater core is clogged. I never removed front heater core. How to do it? Any tips.


Thax!

 

On my 1990 3.0 I replace couple years ago and not that hard. There are 6 screws holding on cover over core.Cover located directly behind dash. Screws are located from bottom. Its a little tight but not bad. When vover removed there it is. Of course drain radiator first. Remove heater hoses. Alot of guys going back with clamps instead of original hoses but I used original quick connectors.Tere are some good post on this . I bouth a long pair of pliers at Northern tools 8 inches I thinf with a 1 inch curve on end and they removed connectors easily I paid only about 6 dollars for them. terry

 

So as I've undestood, I'll remove heater core from cobine, not from under the hood. Am I right?

 

That is correct from inside it will come out with the cover removed from inside.Only thing under hood is remove heater hoses. Does it have original type connectors?Forgot to mention did you try and back flush core ? That may do the job for you. I have a T connector on top hose and flush mine out from time to time gets the bad stuff out may work.

 

Tried to flush. Tried to use compressed air. No difference.

 

Must be all the glue that disguises itself as antifreeze

 

I would definitely change it Pablo.

 

The thing that seems to clog the cooling components is corrosion and scale. To prevent clogs from developing, and to protect your new heater core, use only distilled or otherwise demineralized water and change the coolant every year. That way, the rust inhibitors in the antifreeze are always fresh, and the gunk never gets a change to build up.

 

to remove a glove box to have enought room to remove the heater core ore not?

Where to separate heater hoses? Under the hood? Whot tools do I need to separete hoses?

Well, wish me good luck. I gonna do it tommorow.

 

If tou have original hoses I would get a pair of long 10 inches or longer needle nose pliers with a 90 degree bend on the end of about 1 inch. I purchased for under 10 dollars and it works great for these hoses. Then you can re use hoses again if they have not been on very long. No need to remove glove box core can be removed without it removed. I changed mine as I stated. I used Chilton and Haynes manual both say as staed above about an hour or two job Good luck

 

All is done. 1 weekend.

1. To remove a cover I had to remove glovebox
2. There are not 6 bolts (see Mitchel manual), but 5
3. No tool can separate old hose fittings from heater core, becouse they are so old and they stucked..... Had to brake them.
4. New hoses were not avalible in Lugansk and I installed old ones with hose clamps. Fitiings were cut away. It was not enought room to do id, but I did it. Now I know why ford use these easy to install and impossible to separate fittings.


Heats better, but it is warmer in ranger.....

 

Pablo maybe your water pump is weak?

 

Pablo maybe your water pump is weak? should feel a surge when squeezing on the large upper hose to the thermostat. Water to heater core comes from the block.... should be 200*F burns your fingers!

 

No! rear heater is hot. No ralated with cooling problems. Temperature door is ok too. I suggest I have cold air coming not throught the heater core when blower is on! But wehere? is it possibel to disassembly heater from under the hood?

 

I took the box mostly apart from under the hood once. I removed all the little screws that held the box parts together. I was able to get all the AC parts out without separating the lines. There are 4 studs on the back half of the box that go through the firewall and have nuts on the other side. You can get to 3 of them without taking the dash apart. That's as far as I got.