I've got a 97 Psd running a Diablo3 position chip, no exhaust(down pipe only) K&N intake and HPx. I want to shim the fpr and do a 10k mod. Started to do the fpr shim and put a gauge on the shrader valve but having a hard time telling what the pressure is. THe needle on the fuel gauge bounces in time with the engine from 40-60 psi. Is this normal? Just got the truck and starting to get into it. The fuel filter was black and there is a bunch a sand in the bottom of the cup. How do I remove the spindle and bottom plate in the bowl to clean? I put a wrench on it but didn't want to snap the plastic. Iv'e heard that it is a left hand thread? At idle the truck does rev up and down 100-150 rpms.

Thanks

 

sand in the filter housing is bad, yes its left hand thread, was the filter black or slimy? make sure its not oil soaked as you could have injector o-rings leaking or it could be algae in your tank.

the bouncing gauge is normal, you have a mechanical pump. the bb in the regulator is good for 75-80 psi.

try the icp mod my version, you'll like it better, click my webshots link n my signature to view the pics of how to do it.

mild idle variations are normal in our trucks, they are oil fired injectors, no worries, plus the chip could be causing som eof it too.

scrap the k and n filter they are bad news.

 

First thing WELCOME to .

You should discard the K&N filter. The gauge goes to 40-60 (bounces) thats normal, I have read that the middle = 50 is what your real pressure is, and yes you can shim it to get about 70 and no more than 80. If you want a mor acquarate messurment get a fluid filled gauge. If the fuel is black you have some issue ?algae?. you have to clean the FPR screen and you will get less differences in idle. to take the standpipe out you need a 7/8" crow foot wrench and yes it is LEF HANDED threads, then disconnect the heater element (bottom plate) and take it out, and then you can clean all the stuff in the bottom. I hope this helps. You will be happy with the 10K mod (ICP mode) you can read a lot searching in the forum

 

Filter was clogged black and very slimy. So I guess injectors will be on the top of the list fo things to do. Any suggestions on which ones. My buddies got a set of stage 1 baby swampers? and loves the added juice.

Whats the big beef with the K&N intake? Could that be why there is so much sand in the bowl? Don't know how long the kit has been on there(truck had 104,000miles when i got it)

 

sand in the fuel bowl would be from crappy fuel or a dirty fuel filler upper guy.

you dont neccesarrily need injectors, if they work ok, then a set of o-rings is under 100 bucks.

but if you use the leak as an excuse for new ones then get stage 2's and a superduty high pressure oil pump.

the k&n lets too much dirt particles through the elements and damages the turbo wheel and can ultimatly dust the motor. somebody will chime in on a good system but i like my homemade one.......


and the icp mod my way.

 

"dust the motor"? What is that, and more importantly how do you fix it? Picked up the resistors, but thought i should hold off until I get the injector rings in(or does it matter?)

 

its easier to see if theyare leaking before doing the mod. let the motor get warm, then while in park just put it to the floor and hold it there. if the o-rings are fine it will rev up quick and smooth and stay at the limiter. if they are leaky it will start to rev but stumble and slowly rev up and get a whitish smoke out of the tailpipe until it makes its way to about 2800 rpm then it will jump up smoothly the rest of the way until the limiter.

dusting the motor is a term reffered to when dirt enters the cylinders and basicly microscopicly gouges the cylinder walls removing the crosshatching and causes a loss of compression and an increase in blow-by. the easiest way to inspect for this is to remove the air filter inlet tube at the turbo and see what shape the turbo fins are in. they should be clean and free from knicks and rounded corners. there may be a light film of oil inside the tube and at the impeller, this is common in 7.3's and easily remedied by performing the crankcase vent mod.....as seen below, the first pic is what my compressor wheel looks like, for over 230,000 miles its in decent shape but minor imperfections.

 

if your fuel filter is black and slimy like it has grease on it you have algae. check out these pics
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561193520wivTBB
if it looks the same you need a biocide to kill it. I use bio-con from Napa. couple bucks a bottle and clears it up.

Dusting the motor means the engine take in too much dirt and eats the turbo intake wheel and the cylinder walls. K+N are notorious to do this on diesels. Ditch it and use a 6637 filter like joe pictured. By far the best intake for the money!

 

i wonder if i shoudl run a bottle or 2 for preventative maintance? and does the algae cause a performance problem?

 

As far as I know only when it plugs your filter. I have not heard of injector problems caused by algae

 

oh well, it cant hurt to get a bottle or 2