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Block Casting Numbers

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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 04:33 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by flareside_thunder
No, I DO get it.....I'm not a wiz when it comes to history of stamped codes and I sure as hell don't claim to be......a person is only intelligent as his sources so I'll excuse your reaction.Thank you for the information.

JR
I apologize...I got carried away (as usual).

When I see mis-information, it's like waving a red flag at a bull.

Lotta red flags on the internet.

I'm a cantankerous old phart, as the user title below my screen name implies.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 05:16 PM
  #17  
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NP I'm just havin a crappy week anyways...got me one nasty head cold and no voice......guess that means the guys under me don't have to listen to me yell at em....I do appreciate the interpretation.Later all

JR
 
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 10:16 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
You don't get it, and neither do they. The D4 casting number spawned a block that was used beginning in 1974 thru 1979. No new Ford vehicles made prior to 1974 had a D4 casting number on its block.!
This is where you're wrong. A D4 casting would have begun production in late 1973, when the 1974 Model year started. His date code is correct, September 4th 1973, making it a 1974 Model year part. As for the E7 heads, these were produced from late 1986 to sometime in 1997. On a nearly 30 year old vehicle any combination of parts can be found.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 07:24 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by baddad457
This is where you're wrong. A D4 casting would have begun production in late 1973, when the 1974 Model year started. His date code is correct, September 4th 1973, making it a 1974 Model year part. As for the E7 heads, these were produced from late 1986 to sometime in 1997. On a nearly 30 year old vehicle any combination of parts can be found.
I completely agree with you, I should have been more specific.

I should have said D4 = 1974 model, not just 1974.

A vehicle produced after August 15, 1973 would be a 1974 model.

Same thing is true for the heads, produced beginning in 1986 for the 1987 model year.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 28, 2007 at 07:35 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 05:28 PM
  #20  
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ok, its been awhile since anyone has posted here, i am rebuilding a 302 and have found these numbers stamped on the passengers side back end under theblock, E7TE S ca 9

so now, how do i interperit this engine code, the motor was pulled from a 1982 f150 2x4 i can tell by the tear down it has been worked on before, the heads also have the E7TE code on them i believe..

how common is this motor?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 01:32 AM
  #21  
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Holy thread resurrection!

I notice a common similarity in a lot of internet and book casting number references, they end their listings in the late 1970s. If you have the old "Ford Performance" book by Pat Ganahl you'll see the original(?) of a lot of these casting number lists.

For instance I see the Race Abilene site only lists the 302 and 351W up to 1977.

It also shows the 260 as being produced from 1962-65. The 260 wasn't made for 1965 model cars, the confusion is that 1964-1/2 Mustangs were marketed as 1965 models, so that 5 bolt bellhousings and 260s etc. that ceased in 1964 got dragged into 1965 listings.

The point that must be kept in mind is that the Ford casting number listings have errors in them, which are copied from one source to the next.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #22  
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so far i have found that the E7TE is a 1987 block casting, and it is a common replacement part by the dealerships when engines got replaced.

what i want to know is, what is the best way to find out if this block is HO or not?

itll cost me 60 bucks to have the block cleaned and checked for cracks.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #23  
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There is no HO block, the 5.0HO motor simply has some performance parts in it with the same crank, rods, and heads as what you find in most 5.0's of this vintage and later. That block should be roller ready meaning it will accept the factory roller cam assembly used in later motors. It will have XXX in the lifter valley and a pair of raised bosses in the center which should be drilled and tapped but are not always on early versions. The top of the lifter bores should also be machined flat. See the pics below for examples of the above.

50RollerBlock on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Roller Block on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
 
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 07:35 PM
  #24  
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yeah mine looks just like this one Roller Block on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

i noticed that engine has the pistons with the reliefs in it, mine are plain flatt pistons, should i go to the style in the photo? those pistons add a little more compression right? its been 5 years since i tore into a motor, i feel so noob! i have not found any flaws in this motor yet, so i think im gonna reuse the cam bearings, but ill buy this kit i thin, and use all of its contents, https://secure.pawengineparts.com/sh...658&catid=1582

well there is many options, perhaps you gents have some suggestions for me???? i want a stout engine with a nice sounding cam but i want to drive it daily too, 30 bucks a week in gas is awful! i drive 80-100 miles a week! thats 7mpg... thankyou for any ideas gents

BTW it is bolted to a c6 and currently a 8.8 rear end, but i have a 9" waiting rebuild.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:27 AM
  #25  
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just finished the tear down, the bearings are OE standard size, so

im gona go ahead and change the cam and roller lifters as well

should i have the block bored .030 over?

what would you guys reccomend?

i want it o sound like a 50's street rod.. so i need help picking out a cam? im a fan of Comp cams... how do i figure out my lift duration etc?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #26  
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If you're tearing the motor right down send the crank, rods, and block out to be measured and returned to spec, it should not cost much for this work and it will make the difference in the life of the rebuild. You want pistons with some valve reliefs for clearance and those pictured above are an option but there are lots more as well. I'd say the #1 mistake made with cams is selecting one for sound instead of performance. A cam that produces the best truck performance may not sound that radical because it will have shorter duration, while one that sounds all bad *** will often be absolutely gutless below 3000rpm. Comp cams has a few that are targeted at trucks.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 04:24 PM
  #27  
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naturally i want performance, but surely there is a good low end cam with a rumble sound, ty for the info!
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:59 AM
  #28  
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So like I have a question about casting numbers/ block ID numbers as well. I got from a friend 351 block. the only thing missing was the distrubuter and the intake but anyway. Now the block is striped down & the only numbers I found anywere on in were in the the valley:
351 CCP-16

Now what is that block. My friend I got it from said it came out of a 80's full size bronco. I thought the Ford did not put Clevlends ot Modifieds in there trucks in the 80's. I would think the if it was a 351W that it would have a W instead of that C. Its really throwing me off.
That was the only number on the block I could find.
So is it a 351W or 351C?

Thank you.
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #29  
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Ford V8 Engine Identification - FORDification.com

on the cleveland engine ...

"The thermostat housing is on the block extension which contains the timing chain"

clean the area above the starter...the casting numbers may be there. some ford engines also have a date stamped on the engine which indicates when the assembly of the engine began.

i believe the 351W began going into pickups around 1983.

the cleveland was very short lived...approx. 1970 - 1974.

cheers, claude
 
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