I was looking up some prices out of cliffords catalog and I figured out why they don't put the prices in the catalog, SKY HIGH. Where can I find the same, or comparable, parts at lower prices. I priced forged pistons and they want almost $900 for the set. Or is that a good price? Please guide a lost one.

 

>I was looking up some prices out of cliffords catalog and I
>figured out why they don't put the prices in the catalog,
>SKY HIGH. Where can I find the same, or comparable, parts at
>lower prices. I priced forged pistons and they want almost
>$900 for the set. Or is that a good price? Please guide a
>lost one.



You Get WHat You Pay For ... Get a part time job parts delivery for ford hehehe....

 

D.
Are you searching for blower pistons? Call JE. At this point a little creativity on your point may pay off$$. Scan the piston manufacturers catalogs for off the shelf pistons you can make work. If you weren't blowing it you could bore it .050 and use FE390 pistons, like a set of TRW's. But they are flat tops and would jack your compression sky high depending on which head you used.
Or maybe you could use a set of Keith Black KB181's for a 351W. Do some research and I bet it would pay off. Just don't buy hypereutectic's.
Adios,
Brett
PS. Which offy intake do you have? "C" series has carb mounted inline.
Dual Port has carb mounted sideways.

 

Well actually I found a place local that has most the parts I need. Here is what I found tell me if they sound too much:

Steel (forged?) crank kit (crank and bearings) $119.95 + $125 core (I have stock cast crank and they have to have the steel (forged) crank as a core.
low compression pistons (7.0:1 or 7.5:1) .030 over with rods (pistons and rods are forged) $450 no core
Stock 260* cam $124.99 (this I will most definatly shop around)
1.92 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust vales (sound kinda funny?) $72 all 12.
Moly coated rings for .030 pistons $39.71 set.
1.7:1 rocker arms (off a "non-ford 250 I-6.... I think thse are the ones I want) $24.12 all 12
push rods $19.44 set

That is what I have so far. And that is all local shops. Please tell me that is good prices.

 

As per your request in the turbo thread here is my reply:

Crank + Bearings - Not too too bad.

Pistons - Who made them and what part number? Saying a compression number doesn't really work unless they know whats been done to your head and what CC (cubic centimeter) your CC (combustion chamber) is.

Rods - Don't let 'em lay the smackdown on ya as the stock rods should be forged anyway. If not you can get them out of older (can't say a specific year as I don't know) 300 and have them reconditioned.

Cam - Stock cam is a whack job. Its 290* seat duration with 192* at 0.050 (0.398 lift 110 LSA). Isky makes a turbo cam for the engine (with a lower exhaust duration than intake) but i'd go with an even cam of 202* @ 0.050 (Cam number 331256). For a little more RPM you could go with Cam number 331262 which has 208/208 @ 0.050. Personally, i'd go with the 331256 as you're still not going to rev the **** out of it and turbos extend your torque curve upwards so you'll still be in the torque at a higher RPM than if it was used N/A.

Valves - That should be 1.94 intake and 1.60 exhaust. You should also spring for extreme duty exhaust valves as they get abused more in a turbo'd engine.

Rockers - Those would be the ones you want. I don't know if they are straight replacement or if you have to get different rocker studs installed.

All in all the prices sound pretty good. I'd look into the rods and pistons a bit more. Are you going to build it yourself or have them do it? 300 rods have an odd sized wrist pin diameter, so regular V8 pistons don't work unless bushed (not a big deal, but it adds to the cost).


-=Whittey=-

 

ok here goes, try to kep up IF possible.
>Crank + Bearings - Not too too bad.
So I should stick with them. Where else can I find that.
>
>Pistons - Who made them and what part number? Saying a
>compression number doesn't really work unless they know
>whats been done to your head and what CC (cubic centimeter)
>your CC (combustion chamber) is.
The pistons I have no idea who makes them or what part number. i told the guy that I will only have oversized valves and porting done to the head so that is where he got the compresion ratio.
>
>Rods - Don't let 'em lay the smackdown on ya as the stock
>rods should be forged anyway. If not you can get them out of
>older (can't say a specific year as I don't know) 300 and
>have them reconditioned.
The rods come with the pistons and already put together. this still ok?
>
>Cam - Stock cam is a whack job. Its 290* seat duration with
>192* at 0.050 (0.398 lift 110 LSA). Isky makes a turbo cam
>for the engine (with a lower exhaust duration than intake)
>but i'd go with an even cam of 202* @ 0.050 (Cam number
>331256). For a little more RPM you could go with Cam number
>331262 which has 208/208 @ 0.050. Personally, i'd go with
>the 331256 as you're still not going to rev the **** out of
>it and turbos extend your torque curve upwards so you'll
>still be in the torque at a higher RPM than if it was used
>N/A.
Not to argue but the stock cam in my 300 was 262* int/exh not the 290*. or am I totally off? Where can one find these isky cams?
>
>Valves - That should be 1.94 intake and 1.60 exhaust. You
>should also spring for extreme duty exhaust valves as they
>get abused more in a turbo'd engine.
ok. Extreme duty exhaust valves. more $$$ huh.
>
>Rockers - Those would be the ones you want. I don't know if
>they are straight replacement or if you have to get
>different rocker studs installed.
I did plan on taking the stock pressed in studs out and getting some screw-in or some type like that.
>
>All in all the prices sound pretty good. I'd look into the
>rods and pistons a bit more. Are you going to build it
>yourself or have them do it? 300 rods have an odd sized
>wrist pin diameter, so regular V8 pistons don't work unless
>bushed (not a big deal, but it adds to the cost).
I planed on doing all the work I can myself (with help from some friends). but all the machine work I gotta get someone qualified to do it.

 

Get the crank and bearings.

See if you can find out about the pistons.

If the rods are already installed on the pistons, thats all good. However make sure they don't try to charge you extra, unless they are not stock 300 rods (which I doubt).

Where did you get the stats on the cam? The only place i've been able to find that lists the stock cam is Acelerated Motion (www.amotion.com). I knew it was extremely slow ramping and thought it to be in the 280* area, but still a small @ 0.050 and low lift.

Extreme duty costs more up front, but it'll be nice not eating your valves.

I'll try to get that email out within an hour or two.


-=Whittey=-

 

Check with P.A.W. on the forged pistons-don't know about what comp. ratio you are looking for but they might be worth a try

 

When I was looking for cams for my motor, I found Comp Cams makes a 252,260 and a 268H. Also Clifford Crane Crower and Isky have ones available for the 300. Easy place to look is racesearch.com

 

I'd beware buying from RaceSearch though. I looked up my headers there (Hooker SuperComps) and they are extremely overpriced. I haven't checked out prices of other things though...


-=Whittey=-