pressure vs mechanical brake switch
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
Do a search at NAPAonline.com, or run this number at your NAPA store: ECHSL169. It is for a '78 F-150 and is listed at $5.29 on their website. Granted, it is a plastic plunger style switch, but it hasn't given me problems, and is a direct replacement part for late 70's Ford pickups. Running that number on their website doesn't return anything, so do a search on a '78 F-150 and look under switches and it should return the part(s). However, the number I gave should return just fine at the NAPA store (their website always acts goofy for some reason).
FYI, I also tried a low pressure, hydraulic switch and it didn't work any better than the other hydraulic standard switch. That's why I went with the plunger style switch. I have a '79 F-350 and I knew what it looked like and that I could make it work, AND, it has two electrical pins just like your hydraulic switch so rewiring is real easy.
I'll try and get a picture or two, I might have one on my other computer. I'll take a look and see what I can find. I think I made it from some 1" flat stock and is a triangle shape and it is solidly mounted to the frame.
EDIT: That picture you posted is exactly what it looks like. The NAPA part number is ECHSL169.
FYI, I also tried a low pressure, hydraulic switch and it didn't work any better than the other hydraulic standard switch. That's why I went with the plunger style switch. I have a '79 F-350 and I knew what it looked like and that I could make it work, AND, it has two electrical pins just like your hydraulic switch so rewiring is real easy.
I'll try and get a picture or two, I might have one on my other computer. I'll take a look and see what I can find. I think I made it from some 1" flat stock and is a triangle shape and it is solidly mounted to the frame.
EDIT: That picture you posted is exactly what it looks like. The NAPA part number is ECHSL169.
Last edited by 53fatfndr; Nov 26, 2007 at 11:10 PM.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
I found a picture. It's a little blurry, but I think you can get a good idea for how I made the bracket and mounted it.
EDIT: I'm using a stock location brake booster/master cylinder setup...if you are running a firewall mounted setup, you'll have to come up with something else. The late 70's fords have the switch mounted under the dash inside the cab and that's how they sense pedal movement.
EDIT: I'm using a stock location brake booster/master cylinder setup...if you are running a firewall mounted setup, you'll have to come up with something else. The late 70's fords have the switch mounted under the dash inside the cab and that's how they sense pedal movement.
Last edited by 53fatfndr; Nov 26, 2007 at 11:31 PM.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
Brandon, I am running the MC off the firewall, but your pic shows me exactly what I needed. The switch should work for my application also. I'll pick up a switch tomorrow and have at it. Hey! Big thanks to you bud! I'll let you know how it turns out. The internet showed the switch at Napa for $1.49? I may pick up a few for that price LOL...... Thanks again!
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,000
Likes: 9,893
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Ed,
I used the simple mechanical switch similar to the ones pictured, I think mineis from a GM. Instead of having 2 nuts to hold it to the bracket it has a friction type clip that holds it in its hole. I made my own hanging pedal assy and jsut fabbed up a small "L" bracket and welded it in place so that the switch would be inline with the pedal arm. I drilled a hole big enough for the friction ring and then pushed the switch into place.
The switch should be mounted so that when you step on the pedal the plunger for the switch extends and the lights come on. If it were the other way (the pedal pushes the plunger in to turn on the lights) it wouldn't be able to compensate for changes in brake pedal travel due to wear of the brakes.
Bobby
I used the simple mechanical switch similar to the ones pictured, I think mineis from a GM. Instead of having 2 nuts to hold it to the bracket it has a friction type clip that holds it in its hole. I made my own hanging pedal assy and jsut fabbed up a small "L" bracket and welded it in place so that the switch would be inline with the pedal arm. I drilled a hole big enough for the friction ring and then pushed the switch into place.
The switch should be mounted so that when you step on the pedal the plunger for the switch extends and the lights come on. If it were the other way (the pedal pushes the plunger in to turn on the lights) it wouldn't be able to compensate for changes in brake pedal travel due to wear of the brakes.
Bobby
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