Strange problem appeared a week ago. When my aero is cold starter not easily, but cranks engine, but when engine is warm ore hot starter cranks engine slowly, and engine does not starts.
I have new battery, new solenoid.... so the problem is somewhere inside the starter. I replaced bushings, brushes... and the same effect.....

I've odered new starter for more then $260 but dealer needs 2-3 weeks for shipping from the USA and as result I can not use my aero for frequent errands....
About the quation about the engine.... with towing ore pushing her with hands engine fires immideatly.....

 

probably bent shaft.
causing drag when fields and rotor heat up and thermally expand
had a Thunderbird at one time that did the same thing.

also try resoldering/welding the communtator to wire rotor connections
these crack sometimes dropping out sections of the rotor coils with drop off of starter power
examine with a magnifying glass for cracks and poor solder joints

 

Starter is nearing death!!! I've just had mine replaced, started to crank engine slower & slower gradually over several months & then died altogether. All other electrical checks were normal.
Put on a new one (Ford/Motorcraft recomended) I'll bet problem will dissappear.

Aeroman

 

What is better Bosch ore Motorcraft.... I think Starter with permanent magnets and gears is better, but nobody makes it for aero... I used to think to adapt it for aero making new threded holes in starter....

 

I guess if the Bosch unit is same spec it wont matter much, however Ford makes their unit for the van & has correct spec's for it.

The last replacenent unit I put on was Champion & it lasted just a little less than 3 years. The Ford one lasted 8 years & I'm sure it was repairable. I could tap it with a broomhandle & it would fire right up!

Aeroman.

 

Pablo, Here is a recipe that will help your Aerostar starter last a long long time. The main culprit is exhaust heat, during heat soak conditions, that bakes the starter over time, leading to it's demise.
Here is what I would do, and have done, with my Aerostar ('87 3.0 V6. XLT shorty):

Replace your starter with a quality reman or new Motorcraft unit.

Insulate your exhaust pipe. I used the Thermo-Tec wrap, which racers use to wrap and insulate headers. After I did this, I can nearly put my bare hand up to the exahust pipe, and simply feel warm but not hot heat radiating off the pipe. This protects your starter from heat, and cuts underhood heat (in a cramped Aerostar engine compartment, noticeably!)

Then I replaced the stock negative ground cable, from a stock 4 guage cable, to a thick 1/0 guage cable, with two pigtails that ground to the body. You'd be surpsided at how important the negative (ground) cable is, in the overall scheme of the complete electrical system.

Then replace the pos (+) starter cable that goes from the firewall relay switch to the starter terminal. Ford uses a 4guage, I replaced with a thicker copper 2 guage.

Cold engine starting. Hot engine starting after heat soak (example: driving on the freeway in the summertime, in mid 90 degree summer temps, AC on. Exit the freeway, turn off the Aerostar to get gas. Fill tank, then get back on the freeway. Van is shut off about 10 minutes (average) but still very hot. Engine cranks and starts, IMMEDIATELY).

The neg. cable also helps out when you have a full eletrical load on. Say, on a rainy day, wipers on, headlights on, AC on. Radio on. Charging sytem is peaked, even at idle, headlights and taillights are very bright.

Just some suggestions.

 

My starts in 20-30 minutes.... I think I will insulate exaust with asbestum.

 

and run a 6cm dia plastic drain pipe from front bumper lip to starter area to blow cool air on starter area.

did that on my Aero alternator
can draw full 200 amps now with no overheating on hot days. alternator stays cool to touch at road speeds