i have an early model 6.9, that acted funny while i was pulling my mini excavator the other day. it lost power, and i swear it was spark knocking. however, when i pulled over, it 'healed'.... leading me to think fuel filter.
well, i swapped one in, and while i was at it, put a clear line from the filter housing to the injector cap... how did the song go? 'tiny bubbles'? i also found the 't' fitting that it connected to was trashed. when i lit the truck back up, it was leaking like a sieve. the closest injector cap was dripping like every second!!
i also saw some bubbles from between the injector and the head (space filled with diesel so i could see it).
i have not had the truck long, and it had a few old injectors in the tool box, so the prior owner must have replaced a few (the truck has a chug to it).
i had a few old caps and injectors, the more i tried to fix the drip, the more injector caps started leaking!! whoever designed the plastic/o-ring return lines is an idiot. anyways, swapping caps, o-rings, even tried a diff injector, no luck. i got it minimized, and next day i tried to drive it it was just pissing fuel like it was free-- if it was a gasser, it would have burnt down in my driveway.
so i started looking thru this site-- great place by the way- saves me time by using the vast experiences of y'all.... and am going to buy one of those injector kits i think. i read that the kits were like 80 bucks, yet i found one at 'dieselmans' website for 37 bucks, or 12 if i only want coppers and rubbers....
does anyone have opinions about dipaco kits? is that the same as factory, or will it work? do i need the plastic caps?
with the amazing differences in glow plug quality, i figure someone on here has some experience that will help me!!! thanks in advance!!

 

tfrugal again....

while i am at it, i was trying to find the chug, but breaking the injectors loose at idle was inconclusive. must be a weak not a dead cyl. will a remote temp guage (one of those point at it and it tells you the temp ones) pointing at the exhaust ports/manifolds show enough of a difference to help me? any way to test my injectors? i have a set of old take outs from a truck that was going to the scrapyard, wondering if i can use them for anything but paperweights.
thanks again.

 

Is the chugging coming from the intake........ intake valve... from the exhaust.... exhaust valve.. normally.

Visit..... http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi.htm

Check out the injector installation kit (return line kit).... trying to repair old stuff very seldom works so get a new set.

http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm

Dipaco makes them for IH too..........

 

Is there any mod on these return lines? I am running jet fuel and it eats up the seals pretty fast. I did buy viton but they wouldn't seal. My truck a 94 IDI has a different set of caps. I think there are 2 or 3 of them which are T's and send the return fuel across.

 

Did you buy the correct viton o-rings? #111 is what you want, can be had from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) for very cheap, we installed a full set of those in my buddy's 6.9 and the thing hasn't leaked a drop ever since. We only replaced the o-rings, we reused the old caps and hose clamps, but we did run new hoses, not viton tho, that's still to be done.

The way I have my return lines setup is #1 and #2 are T-eed together at the IP, then I have #1-3-5-7 and #2-4-6-8 linked with the straight-through caps on #3 and 5 and #4 and 6, then #7 and #8 are T-eed together in the back of the engine with the main return line to the tanks coming off that junction block. Basically a big circle with the IP in-between at the front and the main return line junction in-between at the rear. That ain't stock tho, factory setup is the IP feeding #2 and the filter head feeding #1, aka no front crossover, just a rear.

 

I see McMaster Carr sells Viton hose in various sizes.
I know my feed line is 5/16"
I've read the return lines are 3/16"
Is this true of all IDIs or were there differences between 6.9, 7.3 and Turbos????
How many viton O-rings do I need for an IDI? 8?
I NEED to replace my return lines on my 7.3L turbo and I want to do my 6.9L too.
I want to do a "full" viton fuel line swap on both trucks and I want to make sure and get enough parts.
The full loop/circle idea makes sense to me, did you have to piece together a system? If so can you buythe indiuvidual connectors, tees etc. instead of a kit?

 

My feed line is 3/8 actually, the main return line from the engine to the tank selector valve is 5/16, and the injector line loop is 1/4" hose. Mu buddy's 6.9 has the same main lines (3/8 feed, 5/16 return), but the injector loop is 3/16. You will need two o-rings per injector, they are all the same size tho, so a pack of 25 will do you just fine. As for the injector loop - the only thing I needed to do change is to move the line between injector #1 and the filter head to a T-ee I installed in the line between the IP and the #2 injector, essentially all I added was that T-ee, three hose clamps, and a rubber cap for the filter head port. Real easy and simple, works great too. As for the injector caps, when I bought the truck I found a box with all these under the seat, as in some previous owner bought a kit but never installed it. On my buddy's 6.9 we reused all his caps and clamps, just added new o-rings and hoses.

 

On a turbo engine, the passenger side rear injector (7) should have a single connection on the return tee.
The return line then runs to the front injector straight across 5 and 3, which should have a 90 degree two outlet tee.
If you still have a filter return line, tee it into the cross over line going between 1 and 2.

The drivers side starts with a 90 degree two outlet tee then runs straight back across 4 and 6 to number 8 which is again a 90 degree two outlet tee.

The outlet from 8 and the IP return tee together at the rear of the manifold to go back to the tank.

The NA motor has a cross over at the rear of the engine, but that would put the return to close to the downpipe on a turbo motor, so it was eliminated.

2 O rings per injector, so 16 are needed.
I always get an extra or two, they are so small if you drop one you probably will not find it.
They are also easy to tear until you work out a system installing them.

I oil the O ring and injector top, install the top ring first.
Then oil the bottom O ring and roll it down across the top one.

A light coat of all purpose grease inside the return tee helps it slide down across the O rings.

When I buy return tees, the local injection service has a bin with single, double straight and double 90 degree tee's, as well as some triple tee's, I get what I want.

 

That would make sense, thanks for the info.

That's pretty much how I do it too, only I grease everything instead of oiling it, seems to make things move a bit smoother.

 

THANKS for the info guys.
I've been working my @$$ off working on guns for this hunting season, I didn't draw any good deer or elk tags so I'm only going to take one day off for hunting season SO.....I'm going to treat myself to a new set of injectors, Beru glow plugs, viton lines, ATS down pipe and turbo housing, boost gauge and pyrometer (and maybe a 4" exhaust) instead.
I figure doing it all at the same time makes the most sense.

 

I have had brand new caps split out of the kits when installing so it's a good idea to have extras. International doesn't carry a kit, they have the various caps, hose and clamps, O-rings all purchased separately.

Cost is about the same as buying the kit online.