When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Truck was pulling to the right the other day. Stopped to see if tire was low. Wasn't. Either the caliper isn't releasing or something else is causing the brake to drag. Cleaned up the surfaces where the caliper is supposed to be able to be self centering and that didn't help. Can someone please steer me in the right direction.
Thanks
If you're really lucky, cleaning up everything could help, but it looks like you tried that.
I've seen that both bad hose or caliper can cause one side to drag. If the hoses are old, it just makes sense to replace them. Replacing one caliper may work, but it may not stop straight anymore until you replace both...
Was it pulling right while braking or not braking? If it was while braking and it pulled right could be that the left caliper is frozen and no longer working. If it was while driving without braking it could be the right caliper is sticking. To check it (if it pulls while braking) Try to compress the left caliper if it doesnt go in, then either the caliper is frozen or the line is preventing fluid from passing. To check it (if it pulls while NOT braking) try to compress the right caliper. If it doesnt go in, you kno you have a faulty caliper or line.
I agree with trying one caliper first, if you have the time. I was just pointing out that you shouldn't be upset if both end up needing to be replaced. No need to change parts just because (however, I'd do both lines unless you know how old they are...).
Most of the time this happens a little while after you replace the front pads. The caliper piston is extended for a long period of time as the pads get thinner. The bore in the caliper will rust behind the piston, and then when you push the piston back with a c-clamp to make room for new pads, the piston rides right over the rust and has a tendency to freeze up.
Sounds to me like you are due for a brake job including new pads, calipers, caliper slider pins and if the rotors are pitted with rust or deeply grooved then replace them as well.
If you have recently done all that then I would say take out the slider pins, remove any rust and grease them slightly before putting them back.
Note, if your brakes have already heated up then you could have damaged the caliper seals and you might have to replace them again.
I hate working on vehicles, so figured I'd do both sides and get it over with. That way I should be covered for quite awhile.
Wondering if one brand of caliper is better than another?
Thanks guys for all the replies.
Good choice, I know it is a little more expensive but it should keep you out of trouble for a long while to come.
By the way check you outer U-joints for looseness or binding while you are at it. These joints often seize up over time and then you get nothing but grief with steering problems and the like.
Might as well do a whole front end job if the U-joints are getting bad. It will save you a lot of money later not having to replace the steering box, pump, and all those expensive linkages.
Just a thought,
Season best wishes,
Sebastian.
Originally Posted by TRIKSTR
I hate working on vehicles, so figured I'd do both sides and get it over with. That way I should be covered for quite awhile.
Wondering if one brand of caliper is better than another?
Thanks guys for all the replies.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.