Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
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From: Spokane WA, USA
Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
Hey guys, the 600cfm on my six seems to run great, the only significant problem seems to be that the motor bogs under load below 1500 rpm (don't have a tach) ex: taking off in 2nd, then right into third, then right into forth. (5th, I wish) Idles great, and runs great under no load at all rpm. The carb is new. Someone suggested going to lighter metering rod springs. Thus leaning it out in that RPM range.
One more thing guys, Which tube at the bottom of the carb goes to the vacuum advance? One closet to the choke side or the on closest to the throttle linkage side.
Thanks guys.
Glenn
72 crew cab 4x4, Clifford intake, efi manifolds, k&n
One more thing guys, Which tube at the bottom of the carb goes to the vacuum advance? One closet to the choke side or the on closest to the throttle linkage side.
Thanks guys.
Glenn
72 crew cab 4x4, Clifford intake, efi manifolds, k&n
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 43
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From: Hepworth, Canada
Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
good question glen,i,am in the same boat. 1979 f150,trying to get a1405 to work.i emailed edelbrock to see if they have a calibration kit for this carb, and the 300.i will relay any info i get
have good one art
have good one art
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Spokane WA, USA
Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
As I dig into this a bit deeper, it seems to be a lean condition. When the truck is cold and the choke is on, it seems to run better/stronger. As it warms up it bogs down a bit in low rpm- I think this is indicative of a lean charge. I am going to go to the local speed shop and buy a metering rod spring kit and instal some stiffer springs (ie. richer mix) Let you know what happens. If you get any info on this from Edelbrock or any other source, please e-mail me at gdavis@rahco.com
Thanks
Glenn
Thanks
Glenn
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Joined: Apr 2001
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Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
Don't run an Edelbrock, but I do run a 600cfm Holley and Offy DP. In trying to get better response (and mileage) I added an additional 1" carb spacer to the egr plate, giving me a total of 1.5" under the carb. The difference is amazing. Throttle response is smoother, and acceleration is stronger. I think it may be the extra spacer gives better fuel atomization, similar to an Edelbrock "Tunnel ram".
Just an observation I thought I would add to the mix.
Looking forward to mileage numbers.
Just an observation I thought I would add to the mix.
Looking forward to mileage numbers.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Spokane WA, USA
Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
I made a special steel adapter plate out of 1" steel plate (I know, I know -but we have a computer burn table and I can make any shape at the touch of a button) This allowed me to rotate my carb the correct way for linkage and float purposes. I went to Schucks last night and bought the 1" alum spacer plate (total of 2"), put it on and most of the flat spot disappered. Will try and change the step-up springs to larger hg.
Glenn
Glenn
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 43
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From: Hepworth, Canada
Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
hi edelbrock got back to me,the calibration# is#1479.they also said i should get a 500
.i,ll just go out to the money tree ,and order one thanks for the help,have a good 1. art
.i,ll just go out to the money tree ,and order one thanks for the help,have a good 1. art
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 405
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From: Ft. Walton Bch 32547
Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
The vacuum port on Left as you're facing the carb is the timed vacuum port that most people should use for the vacuum advance. The one on the right or throttle linkage side is a full time vacuum straight off the manifold. Just took that from my Edelbrock instruction manual.
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Edelbrock carb gurus needed!
Gdavis, since you've got the "cool tools", another thing you might consider is making a heat plate for the manifold. Helps to atomize fuel when it hits the heated plenum, and gets rid of a lot of "stumble". I milled mine from a block of aluminum, using the gasket from the where the stock manifolds bolt together as a pattern for the holes. On the Offy, the heat plate bolts right up under the carb plenum. I tig welded a 3/4" nipple on the "in" side, and a 5/8" on the out, then spliced it into the heater supply hose. It functionally replaces the stock choke stove, and works great.
Or you could go the easy route, and buy it from Cliffy, but I think it's around $100. Once you have that in place, then tune your carb.
Or you could go the easy route, and buy it from Cliffy, but I think it's around $100. Once you have that in place, then tune your carb.
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