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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

89 jag xj6?

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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 08:59 PM
  #16  
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There are a few other usable parts as well if you get the entire car. The Smith gauges are excellent quality and there are plenty of relays, switches and other dodads that can be adapted. Unfortunately Jag seemed to have used the same leather supplier as their steel supplier for their upholstery but the seats could be recovered.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 09:40 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Truxx1956
If you use your stock steering column...... You will have to take it apart from the box. These old trucks dont' have a steering column, as you'd expect. They are actually a steering tube around the steering shaft going into the steering box, so if you opt to use your original "steering column" you'll have to take the worm gear out of the steering box and weld either a rag joint adaptor onto the end of it or a U-Joint to it. Most folks when goin to an IFS setup opt for a tilt column to complete the modernization.

If you'll look back a few pages you'll find a post by me about an awesome problem solver. It is very expensive, but very cool!! It allows you to use a very short column and come almost paralell out of the bottom of the dash. that improves geometry greatly. It uses a chain drive to deal with the offset of the column and the steering shaft. There are other alternatives, but this one really would be great. You can also use the column from the donor car, in this case the Jag? and get a series of U-Joints to get from the column to the steering box or rack, whatever the case maybe? The only thing to remember if you're goin to run more than 2 U-joints you MUST have a support bearing to keep the shafts from "looping" Also you must keep the U-Joints in phase.


Hope this helps, I would post pics of keeping U-Joints in phase, but I'm not as good with a computer as I am with a welder
I used a steering column from a 1989 Blazer and it matched up perfect with the IFS out of the T-bird we fabricated in our 48 F-1. We did have to do a little machine work and welding but it is a good match. I know nothing about Jag IRS or IFS. We just happened to have a 1995 T-bird available for all our parts. I will try to post some pictures soon. LS.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 09:50 PM
  #18  
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No welding needed. Cut the shaft at the steering box with a hacksaw. make or buy a lower shaft bushing (doesn't need to be high tech, turn one out of a 1" block of Delrin on a drill press) grind the shaft to match a DD coupler or U joint. Buy or make a lower column to floor support (can be as simple as 3 "L" braces held to the column with a hose clamp and screwed to the floor) The only downfall of using the stock column is you'll lose the horn button in the center of the steering wheel, add a push button switch in a convenient location.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:28 AM
  #19  
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Hi F100newb, if you look in my gallery you can get a good idea how I installed my Jag front end, with my steering column set up, The series 111 front is the better front end to graft and it's not a difficult job.
Cheers
Aussie 53
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 08:44 AM
  #20  
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Aussie... Great Pics. What year was the jag that you used?

AXracer... Good info thanks. Any thing specific that I should pull from the donor car before I start parting it out?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:44 AM
  #21  
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the engine and tranny, if they are any good you can likely sell them for what you paid for the car.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #22  
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Yep have that and all the metal for sale on Craigs list.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #23  
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f100newb; What year Jag did you wind up getting? Have you started the install yet? Are you going to use the IRS as well? Sorry for all the Q's but just wanted to know. If you use the IRS you will have to order the cross member to weld to the frame. Let me know and I'll give you the name of the place I ordered mine. Can't wait to hear how it's going. Remember it's not not hard, and it's not rocket science. Just take you time measure, measure, and measure it again. When You think you got it all figured out get yourself a couple of frosties and sit down and think about it. Then MEASURE it again
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #24  
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Rusty I just noticed that you are in Mustang OK. I lived in Edmond for 5 years and did the Mustangs Across America from Mustang OK to Nashville. Lots of fun. I drove my Roush out there and had a blast.

As for the truck goes I got a 86 XJS Vanden Plas. I will use the IFS and the IRS. I would also like to use the Master cylinder and all (plan to graft it to the firewall.) Yeah if you could give me the names of some places and any other info you may have.

I went and bought the Boyd Coddington Chassis engineering and building book to read through and also have printed out Holmeys (sp?) web site on how he did his. My truck is still sitting in the garage untouched since I got it. I want to have all my ducks in a row before I touch the thing.
 

Last edited by f100newb; Dec 20, 2007 at 01:06 PM. Reason: fat fingers
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:34 PM
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F100newb, my front end is out of a 198-82 model, just give us a call if you need and more info mate. You are going in the right direction with the Jag, that's my personal opinion.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:38 PM
  #26  
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I bought my cross member from TCI (Total cost involved). They are real nice people. Cost was $180. All I had to do was cut it to fit in the frame and weld it in. It only comes in 0 4 and 6 degree pinion angle. I got the 4. You can angle it when you put it in. I set mine on 3 to match the angle of the tranny. The fella you're talking about is the one I used a lot of his ideas to install mine. It's a great site. Keep me informed on your build. If there is anything I can help with let me know. Also on your IFS. It's not a hard install, this was my first, It went together very well. I took my time and did a LOT of measuring. I also used 48steel advice as well as rhopper and a few others on here to get it done. I took me about 6 hrs to install it. After I removed the straight axle and springs and shocks. Let me know if I can help. Be glad to.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:44 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RUSTY50F1
I bought my cross member from TCI (Total cost involved). They are real nice people. Cost was $180. All I had to do was cut it to fit in the frame and weld it in. It only comes in 0 4 and 6 degree pinion angle. I got the 4. You can angle it when you put it in. I set mine on 3 to match the angle of the tranny. The fella you're talking about is the one I used a lot of his ideas to install mine. It's a great site. Keep me informed on your build. If there is anything I can help with let me know. Also on your IFS. It's not a hard install, this was my first, It went together very well. I took my time and did a LOT of measuring. I also used 48steel advice as well as rhopper and a few others on here to get it done. I took me about 6 hrs to install it. After I removed the straight axle and springs and shocks. Let me know if I can help. Be glad to.
Did you make or buy your mounts for the IFS?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:54 PM
  #28  
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I bought a set of mounts online. I soft mounted mine, I payed $47 for them. Be sure that you put an 1/8 inch shim under the front of the mount to level them.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:57 PM
  #29  
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OH; I made the front gussets out of 3x3x3/16 tubing look at them in my gallery.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 02:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by RUSTY50F1
I bought a set of mounts online. I soft mounted mine, I payed $47 for them. Be sure that you put an 1/8 inch shim under the front of the mount to level them.

So you bought the rubber mounts online and made the Gussets (where you mount the IFS to the frame) your self?
 
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