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Gentlemen, I have a minor problem that I haven't been able to find the answer to in any of the ford 300 shop manuals. My 1990 F-150 with the 4.9l engine has two sets of timing marks in the timing gear cover. One is cast into the cover at the about the two o'clock position and the other is a bolt on at about seven o"clock. There is a timing mark on the damper and also a notch although they are not near each other. If you look through the plug hole and set the piston at T.D.C. the small mark lines up with the bolt on timing marks. The notch is , which I assume is for the opitcal sensor of some ford test equipment, is not any near either of the timing marks at that point. Any one know which is the correct one??????
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Apr-02 AT 10:37 PM (EST)]I just tried to set my base timing today. I ran into the same situation. To make things more of a hassle, when I checked my timing, the mark was at about 18 - 20 degrees, if the scale would have gone that high. After I set the timing to 10 BTDC, the truck had low power. I guess the timing marks are off. So much for the new timing light I just bought...
I did notice that when the marks at two o-clock position showed 10 degrees, the deep cut mark was aligned with the crankshaft position sensor when checked with the timing light. I am also wondering what the pointer is for at the seven o-clock position.
My truck is a 96. The spout connector is the single wire rectangular grey plug by the coil, correct?
Unless your trucks are significantly different/altered than my '90, you will time with the marks/gauge on the bottom left of the engine (when viewed from the radiator). this is the seven oclock marks. the little notch is the timing notch, NOT the big square notch. Pull the spout plug and time away,using the seven oclock marks. if the timing mark is nowhere near the seven oclock gauge, then you have more than a timing problem.
The 300 is famous for spinning the outer ring of the damper. The only "safe" way to set the timing is to find TDC with an indicator in the #1 plug hole, mark it on the pulley and set the timing with a dial-back light.
I had a hard time figuring out which mark to go buy also, but after I finally found the mark on the crank... i marked it with a sharpie pen and it only showed up on the passenger side timing marks.
Here's my problem... my mark was "bouncing" around several degrees worth so I could tell where my timing was to set it. The only thing I could think of that would cause that is a worn distributor, any other thoughts?
On these engines you can't just hook up a timing light and time the engine, there is a procedure to go through. Read a ford manual and it will tell you. I believe you have to disconect the spout connector and at least in one manual disconect the map sensor and plug the vacc line to the sensor. That is once you decide which are the right timing marks.
I was under my truck today and could barely make out the marks on the balancer. 3, 6, 10 degrees, a gap, and then 26 degrees BTDC. I retimed the engine to 10 BTDC using the 7 o-clock pointer and went for a test drive. No power. I then set it by ear and then used the light to check the mark. It was real close to 26 BTDC. So I dialed right on 26 and went for a drive.
I have owned the truck for three years. It has never ran so good as it does now. It pulls strong up to 4000 and holds speed up hills like never before. Engine responds to slight change in gas peddle. Before I was always dropping from 5th to 4th on moderate hills. Now it seems to torque right up. I wonder if it can run even better?
The real test will be to drag my 20 ft center console boat to the lake. 1.5 hrs each way with a few monster hills.
Behind the harmonic balancer is a ring that has two raised square pins that stick up about 150 degrees apart. Does anyone know what these would be used for?
>I had a hard time figuring out which mark to go buy also,
>but after I finally found the mark on the crank... i marked
>it with a sharpie pen and it only showed up on the passenger
>side timing marks.
>
>Here's my problem... my mark was "bouncing" around several
>degrees worth so I could tell where my timing was to set it.
> The only thing I could think of that would cause that is a
>worn distributor, any other thoughts?
Did your pulley have a notch for a mark or did you find 3,6,10, 26 degree marks stamped in? As far as the bouncing mark. What about a worn out harmonic balancer? It is basiclly a pulley mounted around a center hub with some type of rubber. They can wear out and fail to dampen excessive engine vibration. I would suspect that slop in the rubber would let the mark "dance" around.
>I was under my truck today and could barely make out the
>marks on the balancer. 3, 6, 10 degrees, a gap, and then 26
>degrees BTDC. I retimed the engine to 10 BTDC using the 7
>o-clock pointer and went for a test drive. No power. I
>then set it by ear and then used the light to check the
>mark. It was real close to 26 BTDC. So I dialed right on
>26 and went for a drive.
>
>I have owned the truck for three years. It has never ran so
>good as it does now. It pulls strong up to 4000 and holds
>speed up hills like never before. Engine responds to slight
>change in gas peddle. Before I was always dropping from 5th
>to 4th on moderate hills. Now it seems to torque right up.
>I wonder if it can run even better?
I want to change the timing on my 300 I-6, but I'm having a hard time deciding what I should set it to. It seems like 26 BTDC worked pretty well for you. Did you try any other marks? Can someone who's tried different marks comment on how well their truck runs now?
Andy: Check where your marks are now. Then if you make any adjustements and aren't happy you can allways go back. I tried to adjust mine at 10 degrees twice. Using the two different alignment marks. Both test drives resulted in no power at all. My (96)emission sticker mentions nothing about base timming. I have heard it is supposed to be 10 degrees. If I get time this weekend I will get piston on TDC and make a mark and see how that method works.
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